New key & adding central locking

kiddums

Hi all,

I'm in need of a new key for my car (the plastic is starting to break on mine and I don't have a spare).
I asked a locksmith and he asked me for a 4 digit code that should be in the book with the radio code. Problem is I don't have any of that.
He can send my VIN number off to Opel for the code, but that costs 25 quid. On top of that the key will cost 80.
Is there any way I can get the code from the car itself?
Can I get a key cheaper than that elsewhere?

Also, this has got me wondering, is it difficult to add central locking to a car?
Is it much harder to add remote central locking?
The bit you pull up (sorry I don't know the term) on the passanger door is worn and its difficult to grip.

doctorchopper

I know this doesn't help you any but as far as coded keys goes thats cheap. For a nissan with nats i was quoted almost 300 euro. I did get a knock off one programed without the auto lock buttons for 80 euro from autokey.ie

kiddums

doctorchopper wrote: »

I know this doesn't help you any but as far as coded keys goes thats cheap. For a nissan with nats i was quoted almost 300 euro. I did get a knock off one programed without the auto lock buttons for 80 euro from autokey.ie

I've contacted them and they don't do knock off ones for the agila.

I got the central locking kit and I should be able to wire it up. But I don't have a wiring diagram for my car. Does anyone know where I would get one?

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

I've contacted them and they don't do knock off ones for the agila.

I got the central locking kit and I should be able to wire it up. But I don't have a wiring diagram for my car. Does anyone know where I would get one?

Central locking kit? Is it an aftermarket CL kit?

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Central locking kit? Is it an aftermarket CL kit?

Yea it is. A friend got it for me.
I don't have it to hand so I don't know the name of it.

It looks straight forward enough. I've never wired anything up in a car, except for connecting a radio, tho. I did spend 3 years at college studying electronics so wires, diagrams and soldering aren't a foriegn concept to me.

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

Yea it is. A friend got it for me.
I don't have it to hand so I don't know the name of it.

It looks straight forward enough. I've never wired anything up in a car, except for connecting a radio, tho. I did spend 3 years at college studying electronics so wires, diagrams and soldering aren't a foriegn concept to me.

Depending on the kit, all you should need is a permanent live (fused of course) and a negative to power the kit, and the antenna plonked somewhere.

There may be a need for a switched live but that should be it. The rest of the wiring should be explained in the kit that comes with.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Depending on the kit, all you should need is a permanent live (fused of course) and a negative to power the kit, and the antenna plonked somewhere.

There may be a need for a switched live but that should be it. The rest of the wiring should be explained in the kit that comes with.

THe kit comes with all the wires and instructions and motors and everything.
I just need to find out where the live wires are in my car etc.
I should be able to figure out everything from the wiring diagram.
Tho I'm a little unsure if there's a specific way to connect the wires up or something? Do I just strip them back and solder them together?

Buford T Justice

You're better off running a separate fused supply direct from the battery. You could use one that's already in the dash, but I wouldn't as you'd be increasing the load that's already on that cable and it may not be rated to carry any additional load.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

You're better off running a separate fused supply direct from the battery. You could use one that's already in the dash, but I wouldn't as you'd be increasing the load that's already on that cable and it may not be rated to carry any additional load.

Actually now that you mention it I think it recomends that. I didn't look if the wire has a fuse in it or not.

I still need to find out how to connect it up to the lights and horn tho. Its a Remote kit.

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

Actually now that you mention it I think it recomends that. I didn't look if the wire has a fuse in it or not.

I still need to find out how to connect it up to the lights and horn tho. Its a Remote kit.

Is it supposed to control the lights and horn? Is it an immobilizer kit too?Last aftermarket CL kit I fitted didn't go near them, but at a guess I'd imagine that you'd need to wire into the flasher relay and a relay for the horn.

Give us the make and model of it and see if we can't get a manual for it online.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Is it supposed to control the lights and horn? Is it an immobilizer kit too?Last aftermarket CL kit I fitted didn't go near them, but at a guess I'd imagine that you'd need to wire into the flasher relay and a relay for the horn.

Give us the make and model of it and see if we can't get a manual for it online.

IT says it's ment to be connected to them. I don't think it's an immboilizer kit. Just remote central locking that can be hooked up to an alarm if I have one.

Sorry, I thought I'd said in the original post. It's a 2002 1L Opel Agila. Base model I think.

biko

kiddums wrote: »

The bit you pull up (sorry I don't know the term) on the passanger door is worn and its difficult to grip.

Door pin?
Is it a round or square one? Round one usually unscrew so just buy another and swap.

kiddums

biko wrote: »

Door pin?
Is it a round or square one? Round one usually unscrew so just buy another and swap.

That would probably be it.
Yea it's a round one. I could do that, but I have the central locking kit now so I'm just gona use that.

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

Sorry, I thought I'd said in the original post. It's a 2002 1L Opel Agila. Base model I think.

Whats the make and model of the Aftermarket CL Kit?

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Whats the make and model of the Aftermarket CL Kit?

It's this one.

I just need a constant 12v, an earth, lights negative, and horn negative.
Sounds simple really.

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

It's this one.

I just need a constant 12v, an earth, lights negative, and horn negative.
Sounds simple really.

Just make sure that the lights and horn operate via switched negative rather than switched live.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Just make sure that the lights and horn operate via switched negative rather than switched live.

Is there any easy way of checking that? Once I find the wires of course.

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

Is there any easy way of checking that? Once I find the wires of course.

Use the horn as an example. Take the negative off the horn and ground the negative pole from the horn to the chassis. If the horn beeps, its switched negative and a constant positive.

On the other hand, there may only be one wire on the horn, which should be a live (check with a multimeter to make sure) and the body of the horn is used as a negative, so I wouldn't use them if this is the case.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Use the horn as an example. Take the negative off the horn and ground the negative pole from the horn to the chassis. If the horn beeps, its switched negative and a constant positive.

On the other hand, there may only be one wire on the horn, which should be a live (check with a multimeter to make sure) and the body of the horn is used as a negative, so I wouldn't use them if this is the case.

Thanks I'll try that. My DMM is busted so I won't be touching it if there's only one wire.
I might not use the horn, I think It's mostly there if the car has an alarm which mine doesn't.(Its not worth stealing:o)
So I'll just try and add the lights.

Buford T Justice

If I were you I wouldn't be attempting this without a multimeter.

Like driving blind imo

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

If I were you I wouldn't be attempting this without a multimeter.

Like driving blind imo

I'm not planning on doing any of that wiring untill I can borrow one. If I was just connecting to the hazzards and the battery I'd do on ahead. I'm not going to take the chance with the power wires tho.


Just thought I'd update this.

I got the two front door motors in place after much trial and error. I founf the fuse for the hazzards and discovered that its a bit of a nightmare to get a wire into the engine bay to connect directly to the battery.

I've asked some questions on another forum but I'll ask them here too as I never get any replies on there.

Where can I mount the motors in the rear doods for starters? There doesn't seem to be anywhere.
How can I get the wire into the rear doors? They don't have the rubber thing for the wires to run through. And I can't figure out how to get the plactic pannels off without breaking them so I can run the wires under them.

Can I use the cigarette lighter for the +12V and the negative? Does the fact that anything connected to it shuts off when I remove the key affect this?

Where can I find the wire for the hazzards? I found the fuse under the dash, but I can't see about the fuse box to see what wire connects to it.

I'm hoping to get back to this on Friday and get it done then. If the weather holds up.

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

I'm not planning on doing any of that wiring untill I can borrow one. If I was just connecting to the hazzards and the battery I'd do on ahead. I'm not going to take the chance with the power wires tho.


Just thought I'd update this.

I got the two front door motors in place after much trial and error. I founf the fuse for the hazzards and discovered that its a bit of a nightmare to get a wire into the engine bay to connect directly to the battery.

I've asked some questions on another forum but I'll ask them here too as I never get any replies on there.


I'm hoping to get back to this on Friday and get it done then. If the weather holds up.

DO NOT use the cigarette lighter as a feed for the CL kit. Use a dedicated permanent fused live. Best to install a new one direct to the battery.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

DO NOT use the cigarette lighter as a feed for the CL kit. Use a dedicated permanent fused live. Best to install a new one direct to the battery.

Thanks. It was just a thought anyway.
Out of curiosity, why?

I'll try and get some wire somewhere and find a way into the engine bay with it.
Do you know what kind of wire I'd need for it?

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

Thanks. It was just a thought anyway.
Out of curiosity, why?

I'll try and get some wire somewhere and find a way into the engine bay with it.
Do you know what kind of wire I'd need for it?

Depends on the power consumption needed to power the unit, but it needen't be huge I'd imagine.

Firstly, if the cigarette lighter power is switched with the ignition, then as soon as you turn off the ignition the cl won't work so it defeats the purpose. Also, there's a risk of blowing the fuse on the cigarette lighter.

You should get a rubber grommit on the bulkhead in behind the pedals on the drivers side or up behind the glovebox on the passenger side to route a cable.

kiddums

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Depends on the power consumption needed to power the unit, but it needen't be huge I'd imagine.

Firstly, if the cigarette lighter power is switched with the ignition, then as soon as you turn off the ignition the cl won't work so it defeats the purpose. Also, there's a risk of blowing the fuse on the cigarette lighter.

You should get a rubber grommit on the bulkhead in behind the pedals on the drivers side or up behind the glovebox on the passenger side to route a cable.

I don't think it has a big power need.

Ah I was thinking there might be something like that.

I can reach it, I just can't see it or get the wire through it. I don't want to damage it so I mightn't be using enough force.
I don't think the cables that are with it are going to be long enough either. I'll try later and see.
The negative wire is shorter than the positive. Can I just use any earth or am I better just sticking to the battery?

Buford T Justice

kiddums wrote: »

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Depends on the power consumption needed to power the unit, but it needen't be huge I'd imagine.

Firstly, if the cigarette lighter power is switched with the ignition, then as soon as you turn off the ignition the cl won't work so it defeats the purpose. Also, there's a risk of blowing the fuse on the cigarette lighter.

You should get a rubber grommit on the bulkhead in behind the pedals on the drivers side or up behind the glovebox on the passenger side to route a cable.

I don't think it has a big power need.

Ah I was thinking there might be something like that.

I can reach it, I just can't see it or get the wire through it. I don't want to damage it so I mightn't be using enough force.
I don't think the cables that are with it are going to be long enough either. I'll try later and see.
The negative wire is shorter than the positive. Can I just use any earth or am I better just sticking to the battery?

You can just put a lug on the neg and ground it to the.chassis..

kiddums

Just thought I'd update this.

I got the central locking added. I found a grounding point in the drivers footwell that I used.
I managed to wriggle the positive wire into the engine bay through the grommit.

I couldn't identify the wire for the hazzards so I'll just do without.

Works like a charm.

I am experienceing some side effects from this but I've posted a seperate thread for that as there might be no connection.

donalz

hi guys sorry now if this post in the wrong place but new to all this but i have a golf 03 with central locking but i want remote central locking im living in cork city anyone know where i could get it done here please ps i rather not try anythin my self cause im useless and plus the car is only new to me !! thanks again