New Radio not working

deadl0ck

Hi All,
I bought an Aldi Tevion MP3 radio and I'm putting it on my motorhome (Fiat Ducato 2001 base), but it seems to be dead, although I could be doing something wrong.

This is the radio manual (including wiring) : Click Here

The old radio is a Blaupunkt : Manual here

There is already an ISO connector on the wires in the dashboard and the 3 wires (Ground, 12V and ACC) look to be exactly the same on both radios (The old radio works fine, I just wanted to upgrade for MP3 capability)

Anyhow - When the control panel is off, and I press the reset button that's behind it, a little red LED below the reset button lights up - Based on that I'm assuming there is power. (although for some reason the Aeriel must be plugged in - same on the old radio, unless aerial is plugged in the radio won't turn on).

When I click the control panel back on the main radio unit, however, not a jot.

Any advice would be appreciated !

shamwari

If you are handy with a multimeter, I'd check the following:

WRT page9 of installation instructions, check and ensure the following at Connector A with the radio removed disconnected:

1. There is a constant 12V at pin 4
2. There is 12V present at pin 7 with the IGN on
3. Check the continuity to ground of Pin 8

Also check the fuse at the rear of the stereo is seated correctly and has not failed

Failing that, return to Aldi or ring the support helpline mentioned in the install instructions.

shamwari

Forgot to add.....the front panel is cliping in ok, and that the ISO connections are beung pushed fully home?

deadl0ck

Thanks,
Will test that today when the baby is asleep and I have a few hours to spare.

Just to be sure I understand - is this how I should check the voltagesyou suggest :

For Constant 12V :
Multimeter Black Lead - Pin 8
Multimeter Red Lead - Pin 4

For Ignition 12V:
Multimeter Black Lead - Pin 8
Multimeter Red Lead - Pin 7

Continuity to ground:
Multimeter Black Lead - Pin 8
Multimeter Red Lead - Somewhere against chassis

Is that right ?

deadl0ck

Just occurred to me also - I was trying the radio with it clipped out of the dashboard.

You said I should check I should check the front panel is clipping in OK, but I haven't clipped the radio into it at this point. Would that make a difference ??

ZENER

It sounds like the unit is getting it's Ground via the antenna shield cable. In addition to the suggestions above disconnect the aerial lead from the unit before taking any readings and use Pin 8 as your Ground (-) for all measurements.

If you cannot get any sensible readings with the aerial unplugged and using pin 8 as Ground then check the continuity of the Ground wire through both connectors as suggested above.

Ken

shamwari

deadl0ck wrote: »

Thanks,
Will test that today when the baby is asleep and I have a few hours to spare.

Just to be sure I understand - is this how I should check the voltagesyou suggest :

For Constant 12V :
Multimeter Black Lead - Pin 8
Multimeter Red Lead - Pin 4

For Ignition 12V:
Multimeter Black Lead - Pin 8
Multimeter Red Lead - Pin 7

Continuity to ground:
Multimeter Black Lead - Pin 8
Multimeter Red Lead - Somewhere against chassis

Is that right ?

For the 12V checks, connect the multimeter black lead to pin 8, and then repeat the test again with the black lead direct to the chassis of the car. This is to eliminate any issues with the grounding of Pin 8

The continuity check from Pin 8 to chassis is correct, although I'd put red to Pin 8 and black to chassis. You also need to change the MM from volts to ohms. You should be looking for a very low resistance reading from this.

deadl0ck wrote: »

Just occurred to me also - I was trying the radio with it clipped out of the dashboard.

You said I should check I should check the front panel is clipping in OK, but I haven't clipped the radio into it at this point. Would that make a difference ??

Once the ISO connectors are properly connected, I don't see why the radio needs to be in the dash. The advice I gave above was that the display itself must be connecting properly into the socket on the face of the radio. If there is any misalignment here then the radio will not work.

EDIT: I reworded my earlier post to be clear up a potential ambiguity!

deadl0ck

A-Ha !! Progress...

So the Ground wire (Pin 8) was not grounded.

When I used a proper ground I was able to get a 12V reading from Pin 4.

I could not, however, get a reading for Pin 7 (Ignition 12V)

I played around a good bit, but to no avail.

I then remembered there was a switch in the camper section that had a music symbol on it and it allowed you to turn on or off the radio from the camper section (I never really use this).
So - I had to turn on the electricals in the camper and push this button (It must run from the leisure battery in the back section) and then I was able to get a 12V reading on Pin 7.

Now with Proper ground, 12V Battery On, 12V Ignition On and then plug in the radio it turns on !!

So the old radio must turn on regardless of the 12V Pin 7 signal to allow it to work while in the driving section and the electrics off in the back.
The Ignition 12V cable is then used to send a signal to the radio to turn it on and off from the rear cab.

So - my question is : can I use the same 12V power signal from pin 4 and just also wire it in to Pin 7 ? (Of course I'll wire in a correct earth also)

BTW - the Outside shielding for the aerial is grounded - I assume this is standard ?

johnayo

Connecting pin4 and pin7 will be ok, but you will need to ensure radio is manually switched off when you are leaving the vehicle as it will no longer be controlled by ignition.

deadl0ck

That's fine with me.

And the Aerial shielding being grounded is pretty standard ?

deadl0ck

OK - so all rewired and working now

Many thanks all for the help.

I used crimp on connections for the new connections and the old ISO block connector from the old radio is still there and can be easily re-joined to the battery power if I ever need to swap back the old radio.

Thanks all again - very happy camper here

shamwari

johnayo wrote: »

Connecting pin4 and pin7 will be ok, but you will need to ensure radio is manually switched off when you are leaving the vehicle as it will no longer be controlled by ignition.

Before you do this, you must ensure that the cable feeding the existing switched supply to pin 7 is isolated so that the constant 12v is kept separate from it.

In addition, if that new radio has a high quiescent current consumption when idle, (e.g if it has bluetooth) then it could discharge your battery a lot quicker than normal. I have come across this before on an Aldi bluetooth radio which flattened a battery when the car was left idle over a weekend The bluetooth was constantly on because the radio was running from the constant 12v circuit.

deadl0ck

Before you do this, you must ensure that the cable feeding the existing switched supply to pin 7 is isolated so that the constant 12v is kept separate from it.

I have left the old ISO connector in the dash with the switched 12V attached to it, so it it well isolated - i.e. something would have to stick into the connector to make a connection - additionally the new connection that joins the 12V and switched 12V going to the new radio is connected with insulated crimp on connectors.
Should that be OK ?

In addition, if that new radio has a high quiescent current consumption when idle, (e.g if it has bluetooth) then it could discharge your battery a lot quicker than normal. I have come across this before on an Aldi bluetooth radio which flattened a battery when the car was left idle over a weekend The bluetooth was constantly on because the radio was running from the constant 12v circuit.

There is no bluetooth on this radio, but I will keep an eye on battery power.
If it becomes a major issue I could try taping into a 12v switched from the ignition.

shamwari

deadl0ck wrote: »

I have left the old ISO connector in the dash with the switched 12V attached to it, so it it well isolated - i.e. something would have to stick into the connector to make a connection - additionally the new connection that joins the 12V and switched 12V going to the new radio is connected with insulated crimp on connectors.
Should that be OK ?

Yep, that seems ok.

deadl0ck wrote: »

There is no bluetooth on this radio, but I will keep an eye on battery power.
If it becomes a major issue I could try taping into a 12v switched from the ignition.

Again that would seem to be ok too. In such a case, would you not be better off switching back to the original one connected to pin 7 and ensure the switch in the rear of the camper is set to on??

deadl0ck

In such a case, would you not be better off switching back to the original one connected to pin 7 and ensure the switch in the rear of the camper is set to on??

I don't think that would be a good idea.
The switch in the rear of the camper requires the electric in the camper section to be turned on. This would mean the rear electrics (running off a separate 12V leisure battery) would have to be on, even when driving.
The old radio did not need the extra 12V switch on, that's why it worked even with camper electric off. I guess that's why that particular radio was picked, so you could use it just from the 12V battery, or you could switch it on from the camper section with the ACC+ signal....