Fence posts question

slowburner

I've just concreted in a load of 10' high 4x4 fence posts - they're to hold a long run of trellis. Problem is, because the ground is so rocky I couldn't get the tops of the posts anywhere near level with each other. So now I need to cut them all to a level line. They really need to be square too, because there will be fairly tall decorative caps to go on top.
If I were to use a handsaw I'd end up with one arm dragging along the ground afterwards, there's that many of them. I've thought of using my little single handed chainsaw but I think that might be too rough. I've a reciprocating saw but it's never followed a marked line in its life. And my circular saw will only cut to a depth of about 2 3/4" (70mm). I wouldn't trust my jigsaw either.
I'm thinking of building a jig; maybe something like 2 battens joined at right angles - one to sit on the edge of the post (vertical) and one to guide the saw (horizontal). Then, cut as deep as I can with the circular saw and finish off with a handsaw.
I've never seen anyone do something like this and I'm just wondering what's the common practice.
Any suggestions gratefully received :rolleyes:

Carlow52

Could u cramp a light chop-saw to the pole below the cut, I have a nice light lidl one which is not heavy: hence the idea. This is assuming u have a decent ladder or working platform.

U could clamp/screw a support piece at the right height to support the weight of the saw. This would be always X inches down from the cut line so u could have them all in place first.

5T3PH3N

Circular saw the whole way round, screw a light guide baton on the post a few inches down from the line you want to cut (determined by the length from the blade to the left/bottom edge on your c/saw) and make sure it's level. Put one on one side and then the opposite side and that should do it.

slowburner

Carlow52 wrote: »

Could u cramp a light chop-saw to the pole below the cut, I have a nice light lidl one which is not heavy: hence the idea. This is assuming u have a decent ladder or working platform.

U could clamp/screw a support piece at the right height to support the weight of the saw. This would be always X inches down from the cut line so u could have them all in place first.

Thanks C52, the only chop saw I have, must weigh about 40 lbs. If I was to lift and clamp that up the posts x no. of times, it'd be me in the ground and not the posts!
How's the Lidl saw?

slowburner

5T3PH3N wrote: »

Circular saw the whole way round, screw a light guide baton on the post a few inches down from the line you want to cut (determined by the length from the blade to the left/bottom edge on your c/saw) and make sure it's level. Put one on one side and then the opposite side and that should do it.

That's what I was thinking I might do alright - but I can't help feeling that there's another way that I can't remember or that I saw somewhere.

Carlow52

slowburner wrote: »

Thanks C52, the only chop saw I have, must weigh about 40 lbs. If I was to lift and clamp that up the posts x no. of times, it'd be me in the ground and not the posts!
How's the Lidl saw?

yep my electro-beckum is a beast weight wise also hence I noticed the lightness of the lidl one: its not good enough for 45 degree compound miters but it does chop

slowburner

Carlow52 wrote: »

yep my electro-beckum is a beast weight wise also hence I noticed the lightness of the lidl one: its not good enough for 45 degree compound miters but it does chop

I sold my old Elektra-Bekum chop saw a few years ago - big mistake, but circumstances required it. A beautifully quiet saw, reliable and very accurate. I've a dirty great noisy Bosch with all the bells and whistles now, but I'd still prefer the EB, even though it was bit slow getting up to speed which kind of slowed down batch production. I miss the quietness of it most of all.
Anyway, back on topic. I think I'll probably go the circular saw and jig route - unless anyone has a brighter (faster?) idea.

Double Barrel

slowburner

I would use 5T3PH3N set-up with the batten and a Bosch or Milwaukee variable speed recip/saber saw. Hold the tool firmly at waist to chest height and start the cut at the slowest setting. If you are not comfortable starting the cut with the electric saw use a sharp 10 point hand saw for a few strokes. A good recip. saw will not have much vibration and held tightly to the straight edge guide will do an excellent job. Speaking from experience.

slowburner

Double Barrel wrote: »

slowburner

I would use 5T3PH3N set-up with the batten and a Bosch or Milwaukee variable speed recip/saber saw. Hold the tool firmly at waist to chest height and start the cut at the slowest setting. If you are not comfortable starting the cut with the electric saw use a sharp 10 point hand saw for a few strokes. A good recip. saw will not have much vibration and held tightly to the straight edge guide will do an excellent job. Speaking from experience.

Thanks DB, sounds like a good idea. I wasn't all that happy about holding a circular saw up at that height. What sort of blade would you recommend?

Double Barrel

SB

A 6" Lenox blade with 6, 8, 10 TPI. Less tear out with 10 point.

Good luck

slowburner

Job done

PureBred

Doing the same as the OP.

Anyone seen these being used. They look good and remove the need for post caps.

http://www.handyhardware.ie/desktopmodules/catalookstore/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=33436

slowburner

I thought at first, that it was a giant pencil sharpener. That would be a great idea! But won't you still have to cut all the tops with a handsaw? And, rather than one square cut across - won't you have to make 4 cuts per post, depending on the shape you choose? That's a lot of hard work and I'd guess the saw could get blunted pretty quickly.
tbh, it's probably pretty obvious why they're on sale.

artycrafty

ricfeen wrote: »

Doing the same as the OP.

Anyone seen these being used. They look good and remove the need for post caps.

http://www.handyhardware.ie/desktopmodules/catalookstore/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=33436

What a great looking product!
I would definitely like to add this to my wish list.

Slowburner, think of the workout you could have, you'd be built like Arnie at the end of it, so not only will you have great looking post tops, you can swan around in your muscle top in the summer! lol

Paul.C

Hello! First off I personally wouldnt use a chopsaw clamped on.....accident waiting to happen. My preferred method would be rent a chainsaw as thats simply the easiest way of doing it. Second way would be skillsaw allround as stated above;)

I used to have an similar arm wreaker, I used to use a chainsaw to cut the ends of the eaves on roofs and used carefully it can work a right treat

slowburner

artycrafty wrote: »

What a great looking product!
I would definitely like to add this to my wish list.

Slowburner, think of the workout you could have, you'd be built like Arnie at the end of it, so not only will you have great looking post tops, you can swan around in your muscle top in the summer! lol

Like this?
[Embedded Image Removed]

artycrafty

Lol, hahahaha, nearly fell off me chair here with the laughing!:eek::D

mucklow

Paul.C wrote: »

Hello! First off I personally wouldnt use a chopsaw clamped on.....accident waiting to happen. My preferred method would be rent a chainsaw as thats simply the easiest way of doing it. Second way would be skillsaw allround as stated above;)

I used to have an similar arm wreaker, I used to use a chainsaw to cut the ends of the eaves on roofs and used carefully it can work a right treat

I agree with Paul ,I have just done the same job, put plastic tops on some posts, used the chainsaw had it done in a few minutes . There are not many hire places that will now hire out chainsaw because of the danger. They are a dangerous tool in hands of a novice ,so be careful if you do use one .
Mick

jack of all

ricfeen wrote: »

Doing the same as the OP.

Anyone seen these being used. They look good and remove the need for post caps.

http://www.handyhardware.ie/desktopmodules/catalookstore/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=33436

Great in principle but it would be an expensive way to do the job as I can't imagine the teeth on a handsaw lasting beyond a few posts. It would be quite easy to make a "U" shaped jig from ply or timber, clamp this to each post and use this as a guide to make a square cut with a handsaw.

Dupont

Paul.C wrote: »

I used to have an similar arm wreaker, I used to use a chainsaw to cut the ends of the eaves on roofs and used carefully it can work a right treat

the carpenter that worked for us did too,until he was leaning hard one day because the chain was blunt and it slipped and cut him on the knee and leg,lucky he was wearing those knee pads in the trousers it slowed it down a bit before it got to his leg:eek:

slowburner

Nothing worse than a tool that is 'nearly' sharp.
It's too blunt to cut the timber, but it's sharp enough to cut you.
:eek:

Paul.C

Dupont wrote: »

the carpenter that worked for us did too,until he was leaning hard one day because the chain was blunt and it slipped and cut him on the knee and leg,lucky he was wearing those knee pads in the trousers it slowed it down a bit before it got to his leg:eek:

Ouch!.....I can hear my old fas teacher....HANDS BEHIND THE CUTTING EDGE!

or in this case just use your head and watch your body:)