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EJ9 To EK9 Conversion

  • 21-04-2011 3:44pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 21


    Hi everyone,

    I am seriously considering a full EK9 conversion for my EJ9 Civic.

    The vehicle in question in a 2000, Honda Civic 1.4 16v SRS Sport 3dr, UK Import.

    It is my daily driver at the moment with 2 years NCT and is in extremely good condition, it would be the ideal base car for the conversion.

    It is currently a 'Type R Rep' i.e. it has the kit, 17'' alloys, etc. and the slagging is endless, you know yourself :P.

    I was wondering, could anyone give me an idea on a comprehensive list of things I would need to do the conversion.

    Obviously I'll need an engine, gearbox, brakes, interior etc.

    It's going to be an evenings and weekend project, as I will be buying a new daily driver.

    She is my first car, and I can't bring myself around to selling her, so I've decided to turn her into the Daddy of the Civic EK range.

    The idea is to have her as a Show Car as such, so the finish will be absolutely immaculate.

    Can anyone give me a bit of direction on what to source, what will be needed, and any nice individualistic touches that would seperate her from the competition?

    Cheers Everyone :).


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭dax121


    buy a crashed type r you will have everything u need. in the long run it will prob be less expensive on u. then just swap everything over. the whole loom will have to be put in its better than cutting and joining everything.
    where are you based?
    my couz dont a ITR conversion on a boxy starlet. if u were anyway close to us come have a look and talk to him


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Woodzie1991


    I'm based in Roscommon :/.

    Like is there any major messing about with electrics or anything like that?

    Hard come across a crashed EK9 with an untouched engine in it :/.

    I was thinking about going down that route, its an option alright :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭dax121


    you will have to get the complete loom seeing as how ur car is 1.4. if it was 1.5 vtec you would get away with only the engine loom and type r ecu. so if you get the complete loom to include the under dash loom, ecu and clocks. once you put all that in it should be ok.
    otherwise its cutting and joining wires and thats just messy :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,727 ✭✭✭Midnight_EG


    You'll need the full braking setup including rear discs, trailing arms and handbrake cables, you need the engine, gearbox, driveshafts, motor mounts, wiring loom and ECU.


    You don't need to touch the interior.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    You'll need the full braking setup including rear discs, trailing arms and handbrake cables, you need the engine, gearbox, driveshafts, motor mounts, wiring loom and ECU.


    You don't need to touch the interior.

    Its not that simple. theres more

    • Rear subframe is different requiring addition brace on rear subframe mount points for arb or you'll tear the arb mount points on hard cornering
    • Front ARB
    • Gearbox and engine mounts are stiffer
    • Steering rack is also different.
    • Break master cylinder
    • All running gear
    • Alloys are 5 stud so hubs and alloys need to be good
    • Dash clocks just because
    • ECU swap with adapter for ej harness or full loom transplant
    • If your car has abs and airbags it must function come NCT time so no cars that are non abs and non SRS will do (dc2)
    • Engine
    • Gearbox (with Ek9 clutch)
    • Driveshafts

    Saleale bits to make money back on a wreck will net you close to a grand for good interior bits.


    That is jut the bits i can think of off hand. I was looking at this before deciding to apply for visas.

    The advice I wish id followed was buy an ek9 as at least a standard car will be easily insured or a UK itr.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,727 ✭✭✭Midnight_EG


    Its not that simple. theres more

    • Rear subframe is different requiring addition brace on rear subframe mount points for arb or you'll tear the arb mount points on hard cornering
    • Front ARB
    • Gearbox and engine mounts are stiffer
    • Steering rack is also different.
    • Break master cylinder
    • All running gear
    • Alloys are 5 stud so hubs and alloys need to be good
    • Dash clocks just because
    • ECU swap with adapter for ej harness or full loom transplant
    • If your car has abs and airbags it must function come NCT time so no doner cars (dc2) non abs will NOT do
    You don't need the ARB bits for the conversion though...just nice to have.

    I already said Motor Mounts.

    Steering rack is just shorter, no need to change.

    I said full braking setup.

    Running gear would be engine, box and shafts!

    No need for a 5 stud conversion, just get bigger brakes such as a 96 spec DC2 conversion or an SiR EK4 conversion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81 ✭✭ek9er


    I'm based in Roscommon :/.

    Like is there any major messing about with electrics or anything like that?

    Hard come across a crashed EK9 with an untouched engine in it :/.

    I was thinking about going down that route, its an option alright :)

    I know a guy up your way who did a conversion on an civic I have, he's around carracastle/ Charlestown. he does everything from home. He can source everything and he was exremely reasonable he got me a rebuilt b16b and i provided the gearbox and rear brakes.. car was out in 4 days! Runs like a dream ..on the rare occasion i get to drive it! I just converted it to 5 stud so if you're looking for rear disc brakes:D ha!.. Pm me and I can send you his no.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,620 ✭✭✭Graham_B18C


    ek9er wrote: »
    I just converted it to 5 stud so if you're looking for rear disc brakes:D ha!..

    I wouldn't fancy driving one if it still had drums on the rear


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81 ✭✭ek9er


    I wouldn't fancy driving one if it still had drums on the rear

    definitley not, 282mm brakes on the front are definitely a must too


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,620 ✭✭✭Graham_B18C


    I've 282's on mine and they've great stopping power but I can only imagine 262's from a 96 DC2 would be pretty good on a B16?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81 ✭✭ek9er


    I've 282's on mine and they've great stopping power but I can only imagine 262's from a 96 DC2 would be pretty good on a B16?

    Well the car originally had 262s but the discs were warping, possibly just bad calipers though. I feel a hell of a lot more confident since changing them, a set of 282 calipers from a civic mb6 or a prelude could be got cheaper than 96 spec 262s anyway


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭JimmyCrackCorn


    ek9er wrote: »
    Well the car originally had 262s but the discs were warping, possibly just bad calipers though. I feel a hell of a lot more confident since changing them, a set of 282 calipers from a civic mb6 or a prelude could be got cheaper than 96 spec 262s anyway


    I picked up Ek9 callipers for 120 euro on Ek9 forum with pads posted.

    Disks i got from someone who did a 5 stud conversion instead.

    MG ZS 180 figment 4X100 282mm disks will fit and can be sourced new from motor factors.

    Fitting:

    Haven't actually done that bit just yet other stuff got in the way.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,462 ✭✭✭projectgtr


    Hi everyone,

    I am seriously considering a full EK9 conversion for my EJ9 Civic.

    The vehicle in question in a 2000, Honda Civic 1.4 16v SRS Sport 3dr, UK Import.

    It is my daily driver at the moment with 2 years NCT and is in extremely good condition, it would be the ideal base car for the conversion.

    It is currently a 'Type R Rep' i.e. it has the kit, 17'' alloys, etc. and the slagging is endless, you know yourself :P.

    I was wondering, could anyone give me an idea on a comprehensive list of things I would need to do the conversion.

    Obviously I'll need an engine, gearbox, brakes, interior etc.

    It's going to be an evenings and weekend project, as I will be buying a new daily driver.

    She is my first car, and I can't bring myself around to selling her, so I've decided to turn her into the Daddy of the Civic EK range.

    The idea is to have her as a Show Car as such, so the finish will be absolutely immaculate.

    Can anyone give me a bit of direction on what to source, what will be needed, and any nice individualistic touches that would seperate her from the competition?

    Cheers Everyone :).

    If you were in the US where its just too difficult to buy an EK9 id say go for it and build a rep, but seriously if you want a show car build something different, why copy an EK9?? there are so many more ways to make an interesting car.

    Just my 2cents


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Woodzie1991


    Thanks lads for all your suggestions!

    Would VTi rear disk breaks be alright to use, considering there 4 stud?

    I like the alloys I have on it, and they are 4 stud.

    Would I have enough breaking power, with upgraded disks on the front and standard VTi disks on the back?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81 ✭✭ek9er


    Thanks lads for all your suggestions!

    Would VTi rear disk breaks be alright to use, considering there 4 stud?

    I like the alloys I have on it, and they are 4 stud.

    Would I have enough breaking power, with upgraded disks on the front and standard VTi disks on the back?

    vti/Sir rear discs would do the job. Would recommend smaller wheels tho, 17's wouldnt be a help. you can fit the bigger front brakes under most 15" You could always get a set of replica ek9/dc2 wheels which are 4 stud.. i've seen them on ebay and a few other places.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,072 ✭✭✭12gauge dave


    up to you mate but i dont feel the hassle is worth it but everyone is different!
    ive had an ek9 and found it no quicker than good sirs really!

    if your doing the whole chabang wire loom the lot ya may aswell go b18c or if ya have no plans on selling car then save up for the big boys k20/h22

    b16s are everywhere now since recession and they do get boring after a while


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭chris139ryan


    my advice would be just buy an ek9 would probably work out the same price or even a little cheaper than all the work your talking about doing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 383 ✭✭coronaextra


    my advice would be just buy an ek9 would probably work out the same price or even a little cheaper than all the work your talking about doing


    x2, I wouldnt waste my time. You will pick up an EK9 for much less than what it will cost for a conversion and the other big thing will be insurance. Its near impossible to get insured in a type r already so I would imagine they wont like hearing about a type r conversion!

    Another thing to think about is resale value, no-one will want an ek9 conversion.
    At the end of the day it just wont be the same!


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