Landrover Series IIA, Series III or something else

ste2006

Hi,

Just looking for some advice on getting a landrover, (maybe)

I want the ability to use it on the road when needed and even for a few long journeys like Dublin to Cork etc.

Mainly however it will be used off road, in the snow, bringing the dogs around etc,

I have been offered a Series IIA (1971) which seems to be in good Nic. I am debating should i wait and try and get a series III???

I will prob try upgrade to disc brakes, upgrade shocks, seats etc to try make it a little more comfy but would one be better than the other for this??

Lastly am i looking at the wrong thing all together, should i get a Landcruiser or something instead???

Any help appreciated,

Thanks,

bijapos

Long journeys?

Then get a long wheel base (109) version, the SWB (88) can be very bouncy. I'm half looking out for a LWB pick up, preferably one that is completely open. I drove two Landies to Africa years ago, not the most comfortable but they go anywhere, as regards reliability........they never die, but they are always sick.

krissovo

Both the series 2 and 3 are poor on long journeys and fatigue can be an issue as steering can vague, poor seating position and the harsh ride. They are bullet proof but the best mod is to stick a diesel engine in. I put a Nissan Diesel engine in a S3 and the reliability was up there with the best of them.

ste2006

Thanks for the replies,

Would you think a Series IIA or Series III would be better for what i want it for???

Thanks,

wildefalcon

krissovo wrote: »

Both the series 2 and 3 are poor on long journeys and fatigue can be an issue as steering can vague, poor seating position and the harsh ride. They are bullet proof but the best mod is to stick a diesel engine in. I put a Nissan Diesel engine in a S3 and the reliability was up there with the best of them.

NO significant differences between the 2a and the 3, bar the plastic grille and dash.

The 109 did benefit from a stronger back axle.

Unless you are very tall the standard seats are fine for long trips - i do a fair few of long trips in my 109 on a regular basis. Laois to Antrim, with a trailer.

Steering should be tight, and easy. It is certainly easier than my non PAS peugeot 306. Fitting monster tyres will remove the easy steering.

Engines are the weak point, the diesel is gutless and short lived, without being particularly economical, whereas the petrol is strong, reliable and bullet proof, but thirsty as could be.

A jap engine is a good idea, or some of the discovery diesels match the gearbox.

Ride is a variable quality, but new, well oiled springs, coupled with decent shocks make a huge difference, as do parabolics. 40 year old springs that have rusted into a solid lump are not recommended.

AN overdrive is a great investment, but buy carefully, many are worn out.

Consider it a posh tractor, rather than a SUV and you will be in the right mindset.

Check out the landroveraddict Ireland page.


The UK mailorder parts suppliers can be very good, and a lot cheaper than Irish suppliers, up to 1/10th of the cost!

ste2006

Great,

Thanks for the replies,

Would you recommend upgrading the front brakes or not to bother???

Could you give me some recommendation of UK Suppliers you have used to give me a start??

Thanks,

wildefalcon

ste2006 wrote: »

Great,

Thanks for the replies,

Would you recommend upgrading the front brakes or not to bother???

Could you give me some recommendation of UK Suppliers you have used to give me a start??

Thanks,

It depends on the landrover.

My 109 has dual circuit drum brakes, with servo assist. It can stop so well that the seat backs flip forward, this with a fully laden trailer on the back.

A 88" with single circuit unassisted brakes would require a lot more effort to stop. It would still stop, but you would be standing on the brakes.

I would recommend you upgrade the brakes to 11" twin leading shoe, servo assisted dual circuit brakes, but not to disks.

That way you are still driving a standard vehicle, but not splashing out a lot of money on disks, which have not been designed for the vehicle, or approved by the manufacturer, it also makes insurance easier.

It's still standard, with Landrover part numbers.

If you find you are having trouble with brake fade, or you spend a lot of time in water, then you should investigate disks. Note: Drums are better in mud.

Check out rocky mountain landrovers and heystee-automotive for disk kits, but be sitting down when you look at the prices.

Ok, some parts suppliers:

Search for :

Paddocks landrover
PA Blanchard landrover (website is rubbish, but prices sometimes good)
John Craddock
LR Series
Landrover supermarket

When you find a landrover then PM me and I'll sort you out with the parts manuals, which make parts ordering easy - but expensive.

ste2006

Great,

Thanks for the help,

Ill keep you updated on progress

ste2006

Another thought to put to people,

Would an old range rover be a better job for what i want, As i said i am not particularily into vintage land rovers and dont care too much what they look like.

If i got an old range rover and added some defender parts would i have a machine more suitable for what i want???

wildefalcon

ste2006 wrote: »

Another thought to put to people,

Would an old range rover be a better job for what i want, As i said i am not particularily into vintage land rovers and dont care too much what they look like.

If i got an old range rover and added some defender parts would i have a machine more suitable for what i want???

That is a common approach - remember it is only the chassis that determines the age, once the chassis is over 30 you have total freedom (subject to insurance).

What you are considering is commonly called a hybrid.

You weld defender bulkhead outriggers onto the chassis, that attaches the bulkhead (the bit with the vent flaps. You also weld on a rear crossmember, which is where the rear tub fits.

You then cut down a LWB rear tub to fit the back, using door sills as the guide for the length.

That way you can legally get a coil sprung series or defender looking rangerover.

Coupled with that you can also use the Range Rovers V8 engine, and permanent 4x4 system, with disk brakes.

You may also be able to buy one already made - donedeal has them every now and then.

MAKE SURE the chassis numbers ON THE CHASSIS match the logbook, a lot of people are swapping logbooks onto newer vehicles to avoid tax, so be careful.

And be advised that the revenue/customs are very hot on this issue - they do know the difference between a lwb series and a 110 defender chassis.


Enjoy, lots of fun to be had, but whatever you do, make sure you put it through a DOE every year - I know you don't have to, but it makes sense to ensure your vehicle is safe, and also if the worst happened you would have the assurance of having taken reasonable steps to ensure the vehicle is roadworthy. Your honour.

ste2006

Sorry to keep asking questions but with your experience or advise for what i am looking for would you go for a Series Landrover or a Old RangeRover????

wildefalcon

ste2006 wrote: »

Sorry to keep asking questions but with your experience or advise for what i am looking for would you go for a Series Landrover or a Old RangeRover????

Horses for courses, I'm a series enthusiast.

The basic nature of the series is the attraction for me, plus parts are readily available.

The Hybrid approach is more comfortable, but has it's challenges too, as it's non standard, you need to know what it's made from before ordering parts.

The pure range rover is also hard work, as some trim parts are getting scarce for the older models.

Honestly? Buy a new toyota or hyundai, safe, reliable, economical motoring.

Avoid older Japanese stuff, not because it's bad, it isn't, but spares availability can be an issue.

ste2006

Yes i am lacking the serious enthusiast bug :-)

I want something old to get Vintage on it, I might just stick with a series 2a or series 3,

Ill prob swap to parabolic springs at the back, upgrade the seats, maybe stick a new engine and gearbox in it, a bullbar, roof rack and some spots and should do the finest,

I dont mind doing the mechanical work but want to go about it the most economical way i can,

Ill keep thinking about it and price up some options,

What kind of money should i be paying for a series 2a or series 3 in ok condition, say no rust and driving but not great overall????

Thanks,

PaulK_CCI

in my opion, if you're not seriously into the Series 2/3 thing, go for a old range rover as it;s more comfortable on longer journies and all round a more 'user friendly', less of the 'tractor' element as mentioned before.
BUT it will be a lot harder to find a reliable, reasonably sorted old range rover than a Series 2/3, or at least, there are a lot more old land rover Series cars, than old range rovers!!!

I know of a very good car pre-1980 rhd Range Rover with a bullet proof Mazda 3,5 tdi converion, upgraded interior etc pre-1980 so it would make a good long distance cruiser. But price would be around 7,5k landed in Ireland!! A rough and tumble, but still useable worn out car for doing up will around the 2-3k. You can contact me for more info on the mazda converted RR.

helibelly

Of course you could go 'off piste' and buy a Jeep CJ7 (like wot I've got for sale later this year):D

wildefalcon

not a bad option - i'd imagine the parts are very available still.

Another option is a willys jeep from the '50s

101sean

Then you are in to silly money, 1950s M38A1s or Hotchkiss M201 are £8000 or so :eek:

Jeep parts are readily available, 70s onwards probably a more affordable option but not as cheap as Land Rover

ste2006

Cheaper the better for me,

I reckon a series landrover is perfect,

Thanks again for all the advice,

If anyone hears of any ok ones for less than 2k or that let me know,

Ill let ye all know how i get on anyway,

Thanks,