Replacing drive belt on Castelgarden twincut

boatbuilder · 18-04-2011 1:03am #1

Hi,
After many many hours welding my rusty deck (2000 TC102 castelgarden mower) , I'm trying to put everything back together.

I'm trying to change the transmission belt, but don't know how to undo the nuts to remove the pulleys....i.e how to stop the pulleys from turning?...specifically the pulley under the engine and the pulley under the gearbox.

Second question...the pulley under the gearbox seems to be in two halves....with each one free to rotate...is this the way its supposed to be?

Thanks...

sponge_bob · 18-04-2011 2:09pm

:eek:
if you are only replacing the drive belt you shouldn't have to remove any pullys, well at least not in my rideon you don't have to. it is a bit tricky having to follow the path of the belt but i would be able to change mine in about 15mins.
i would recheck to make sure that you have to remove the pullys before drawing a big heap of awakard and needless work on yourself.

boatbuilder · 18-04-2011 4:23pm

I have to remove the pulleys because there are metal pins welded onto the mower, I presume to prevent the belt from coming off completely if it gets loose.

sponge_bob wrote: »

:eek:
if you are only replacing the drive belt you shouldn't have to remove any pullys, well at least not in my rideon you don't have to. it is a bit tricky having to follow the path of the belt but i would be able to change mine in about 15mins.
i would recheck to make sure that you have to remove the pullys before drawing a big heap of awakard and needless work on yourself.

boatbuilder · 19-04-2011 1:26pm

Just wanted to update this.....
On the engine pulley, you can put vice grips on the shaft between the two pulleys to stop it from turning...and on the gearbox pulley, you can stick a screwdriver into the holes on the pulley to stop it from turning.

boatbuilder wrote: »

Hi,
After many many hours welding my rusty deck (2000 TC102 castelgarden mower) , I'm trying to put everything back together.

I'm trying to change the transmission belt, but don't know how to undo the nuts to remove the pulleys....i.e how to stop the pulleys from turning?...specifically the pulley under the engine and the pulley under the gearbox.

Second question...the pulley under the gearbox seems to be in two halves....with each one free to rotate...is this the way its supposed to be?

Thanks...

boatbuilder · 25-04-2011 11:05pm

Another update...looks like the engine pulley is seized solid...tried various types of pullers but the pulley is just bending to bits...tried heat too, but looks like i'll have to cut it off and get a new pulley...:mad:

boatbuilder wrote: »

Just wanted to update this.....
On the engine pulley, you can put vice grips on the shaft between the two pulleys to stop it from turning...and on the gearbox pulley, you can stick a screwdriver into the holes on the pulley to stop it from turning.

Nonmonotonic · 29-04-2011 9:59pm

boatbuilder wrote: »

Second question...the pulley under the gearbox seems to be in two halves....with each one free to rotate...is this the way its supposed to be?

Doesn't look like it should be from this.

boatbuilder · 30-04-2011 8:28am

Nonmonotonic wrote: »

Doesn't look like it should be from this.

Thanks for that link..very useful.
I have taken it all apart now, fitted new belts and new engine pulley...the transmission pulley has some kind of bearing in it that allows each side to rotate independently.
The engine pulley was a real brute to get off...I had to cut it down to almost nothing and then hammer it with a chisel and a sledge to get it to come off.
Mine is a 1999 year. The engine pulley changed to a different design in 2000....the shop gave me the wrong pulley so I had to go back to get them to order the earlier one. The only difference is that the smaller pulley (drive one) is about 3 inches on the old one and 4 inches on the new one.
Anyhow, everythings assembled again with lashings of copper grease, so it shouldn't seize for many years!

Nonmonotonic · 17-05-2011 12:46am

Just checked back on this site to look for manual for my mower (good site, brush up on your German!). Select Castell-Garden in menu.

This maybe the correct manual for your machine

boatbuilder · 17-05-2011 9:05pm

Thanks for that...will save it for future reference.

Update: My mower is now back together and working better than it ever did. The repaired deck will last probably longer than a new one would have!

soonleng.lim · 31-08-2013 12:39am

Hi,
I am new to rideon mower. Mine just packed up. The belt to the blade drive is busted. I have bought a new belt.

But am having a lot of difficulty putting it in at the engine end. There is a big long belt guide pin which seems to be welded to the chasis and it is very close to the pulley. It is not possible to squeeze the belt through.

I tried to remove the pulley. Seems like it is a twin pulley design, the 2nd pulley for the transmission. Seems impossible. There is a unusual hole in the shaft between the two pulleys but doesn't seem like it can be removed that easily. I even tried to loosen the engine mounting hoping to increase the gap but to no avail.

Can someone assist before my lawn turns into a jungle

boatbuilder · 31-08-2013 5:17pm

You have to get the pulleys off. May have to cut the pulley to get it off and replace with a new one or maybe cut the belt retaining pins and weld them back on again after.

soonleng.lim wrote: »

Hi,
I am new to rideon mower. Mine just packed up. The belt to the blade drive is busted. I have bought a new belt.

But am having a lot of difficulty putting it in at the engine end. There is a big long belt guide pin which seems to be welded to the chasis and it is very close to the pulley. It is not possible to squeeze the belt through.

I tried to remove the pulley. Seems like it is a twin pulley design, the 2nd pulley for the transmission. Seems impossible. There is a unusual hole in the shaft between the two pulleys but doesn't seem like it can be removed that easily. I even tried to loosen the engine mounting hoping to increase the gap but to no avail.

Can someone assist before my lawn turns into a jungle

soonleng.lim · 31-08-2013 8:22pm

Oh NO.
Like chopping off the wrist to cut the nails !
what a dumb design

boatbuilder · 01-09-2013 8:00am

soonleng.lim wrote: »

Oh NO.
Like chopping off the wrist to cut the nails !
what a dumb design

Problem is more that the pulley assembly was probably installed without anti seize grease in the factory.

soonleng.lim · 01-09-2013 8:05pm

I saw off the bit overlapping the pulley and managed to put the belt in after 30 mins of very difficult sawing.

New belt is probably a bit shorter than the old ones, so unable to start cos the cutter is engaged all the time. Managed to adjust, so can start but the minute I engage it, ever so slowly, the engine died.

Looks like more fine tuning required.

Massey Byrne · 22-02-2014 12:45pm

Hi
Am having some of the same problems, I got the front pulley off the engine but am having trouble getting the one off the gearbox.
Space is very limited with the deck any tips greatly appreciated.Thanks.

boatbuilder · 23-02-2014 11:37pm

You could try getting a bit of heat on it with a blowtorch and lots of wd40 or similar. Stick a screwdriver through one of the holes on the pulley to stop it turning... Did you know that if you take the grass box off you can tip the whole mower up on its end to work on it? Just drain the engine oil and petrol first or it'll go everywhere.

LK_Dave · 03-04-2014 1:27pm

The pulley below the engine on my ride-on Castlegarden TCP 102 (Year 2002) fell off my machine. Looks like I'm missing a retainer bolt. Do anybody know the size of this bolt and thread size?

see photos attached.

many thanks

Dave

boatbuilder · 03-04-2014 8:05pm

Dunno but I have to change my belt again in a week or so... it lasted 3 years. This time I'm using a blue Kevlar belt as the black ones crack up very fast. Cheaper to buy it on eBay from America.
I'll check the bolt size but it could be a few days before I get to it.

LK_Dave · 11-04-2014 6:07pm

boatbuilder wrote: »

Dunno but I have to change my belt again in a week or so... it lasted 3 years. This time I'm using a blue Kevlar belt as the black ones crack up very fast. Cheaper to buy it on eBay from America.
I'll check the bolt size but it could be a few days before I get to it.

Any luck on sizing that bolt? many thanks

Dave

boatbuilder · 11-04-2014 9:33pm

LK_Dave wrote: »

Any luck on sizing that bolt? many thanks
Dave

2 inches long, 7/16" UNF (normal bolt, not a reverse thread)
Worth putting a bit of copper grease on it when you're putting it in.

Vertico2k · 12-04-2014 7:25pm

Am having the same probs as everyone's else. Can't get past the welded pin. Does the pulley nut unscrew as it seems unbelievable tight. I too have tried unbolting the engine but can't get past the welded pin.

boatbuilder · 12-04-2014 8:08pm

Vertico2k wrote: »

Am having the same probs as everyone's else. Can't get past the welded pin. Does the pulley nut unscrew as it seems unbelievable tight. I too have tried unbolting the engine but can't get past the welded pin.

I would suggest cutting the pin and welding it back on after. Unless you want to try harder to get the pulley off and risk wrecking the pulley which is easy to do as its not particularly sturdy.. The bolt does unscrew - try holding the pulley shaft with a pair of vice grips.

Gosub · 18-08-2014 4:15pm

As I was fitting a new galvanised deck, I decided to renew the drive belt. It was pretty tatty anyway. Having read this thread I approached the job with trepidation. I needn't have worried. Both pulleys slid off by hand, with a little wiggling. Happy daze!

They're not all practically welded on.

boatbuilder · 11-04-2015 8:37am

Here we go again...at the end of last year the conrod inside the engine snapped, so I've bought a new conrod and a gasket set and taken the engine apart...luckily the cylinder barrel wasn't scored at all.
Had to cut off the engine pulley with an angle grinder because it was so seized on there!

Replacing drive belt on Castelgarden twincut

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