Car Preservation?

Stinicker

This may sound like a thread for classics but bear with me.

In the last week my current car and first car has become un-practical to repair. I have decided to effectively mothball the car as its resale value is only about €800 - €1000 now however its sentimental value is massive to me. The thought of some little scummer getting his hands on it would break my soul (its an e36 3 series). It has alot of history and I love the car, however like that first GF time has come to move on, however I am thinking of my future midlife crisis needs!

The car is still practically perfect bar some dodgy brakes, its Achilles heel is its 30mpg fuel consumption and I don't consider €100+ trips to the petrol station to be so good anymore.

I am thinking of buying a small shipping container and getting it insulated with spray on foam to house the car in, I have plenty room, I am wonder about preservation for the engine and interior which is leather. Being in an enclosed container there would be no light to fade anything.

I wonder would it be best to put it on axel stands and remove the wheels? I would remove the battery and I am wondering should I remove all the vital fluids? Drain/siphon the petrol tank, losen the sump nut and drain the oil, similarly with brake fluid, the autobox is a sealed unit and never had to do anything with it so I wonder what would the scenario be for this, break the permanent seal and drain the fluid or let the fluid to age gracefully.

I would get it fully powerwashed and steam cleaning it before entering it into its new tomb for a few decades.

Any ideas to further its preservation over the years, I don't want to let it rot away and want to mothball it and drive it out of its sarcophagus in the same condition as it practically went in probably some time around the 2030's - 2040's if I live that long.

I am also prepared to build a shed or some sort of structure to help preserve the container holding my pride and joy.

qz

I admire that post! I couldn't really consider selling my current car, the money I would get for it would be but a scratch on the sentimental value and the true worth of the car (in my eyes).

Buying a shipping container and insulating said container sounds bonkers, it sounds like you're trying to hide a body. If you can, build a shed on your property in which to house the car. That way you can be near it, visit it and tinker around with it when necessary.

I wouldn't drain out the engine oil or fuel, rust from the inside out would be than more likely, nor would I drain the coolant. I don't know what would be the best way to mothball a car really aside from having it in a heated garage in axle stands. I'd defo clean the interior and have it moisture free or else mould will grow quite happily in there.

firefly08

has alot of history and I love the car, however like that first GF time has come to move on

You don't still have your first GF preserved in a shipping container do you? :eek:

I'd say, if you have this much trouble getting rid of your first car, it'll probably only get harder. Bite the bullet now and get rid of it, if you're sure it's time to move on. It was built to be driven not to be left up on blocks. If you're really picky about who gets it, then give it to someone you like. It breaks my heart to see a car going to waste! Just my 2 cents - best of luck either way!

Stinicker

firefly08 wrote: »

You don't still have your first GF preserved in a shipping container do you? :eek:

No she's kept with the rest of the dead bodies :D

firefly08 wrote: »

I'd say, if you have this much trouble getting rid of your first car, it'll probably only get harder. Bite the bullet now and get rid of it, if you're sure it's time to move on. It was built to be driven not to be left up on blocks. If you're really picky about who gets it, then give it to someone you like. It breaks my heart to see a car going to waste! Just my 2 cents - best of luck either way!

Me and my father bought it together and it was imported from London and its just one of those things I couldn't ever let go of!

BrianD3

It might be an idea to spray it with Waxoyl - not just the underside and cavities but the suspension parts and bodywork too. Not sure if Waxoyl would harm paint after 20 years.

I think you should keep the car but mothballing it and planning to exhume it 20 years is a long time to be thinking ahead. You could keep the car as a weekend driver, avoid driving on salted roads in winter etc and could get 20 years of enjoyment out of it instead of leaving it sit in a container.

mickdw

Best just keep it in mildly heated shed and ran occasionally I would have thought. If you keep it alive, it will be still working in 20 years whereas locking it away in a container could really destroy it.

Tayshty

Robbed from another site. everything might not be relevant to you, but worth a look
Storage Checklist:

• Drain and flush the radiator, refill with new antifreeze.
• Place a cover of some kind over the radiator overflow line, bugs will make a home there and plug the line.
• Change the Engine Oil and filter. Used oil is acidic and may harm your engine over a long period of time.
• Lubricate all the grease fittings, the door, hood & trunk hinges.
• Pour a couple of quarts of light weight engine oil into the gas tank.
• Start engine and run it until you get lots of blue smoke out the exhaust. (This coats inside of the Carb, intake manifold, cylinders and the exhaust with a light coat of oil to prevent corrosion.)
• Top off the gas tank, add fuel stablizer. If the gas tank has a vent line, be sure to cover it.
• Cover the ends of the exhaust to prevent critters from making a home in the exhaust.
• Remove the aircleaner and cover the top of the carb with light plastic and then reinstall the aircleaner.
• Remove the battery and store it away from the car.
• Put a light coat of wax on the paint and chrome.
• Clean the interior of the car.
• Adding moth balls (every where), a open box of baking soda and some rat poison in the car to deter rodent making it their home.
• Use a rubber lubricant on the door and trunk seals.
• Put the car on jack stands just high enough that the tires do not touch the ground.
• Make sure you release the hand or parking brake.
• Cover the car with quality car cover. Be sure the cover does not go all the way to the floor or ground, it is important for air to circulate under the car.
• If you are worried about theft, remove the rotor from the distributor and store it with the keys.
• Place a copy of the storage checklist in the glove box to use when you remove the car from storage.

When you are ready to remove from storage:

• Reinstall battery.
• Remove the cover on the carb and radiator oveflow line.
• Reinstall the rotor in the distributor.
• Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter and make sure you fill the ne oil filter with some oil before placing back into its location.
• Fill the engine with oil.
• Check the dip stick to verify that the oil is flowing freely onto the engine.
• Drain your cooling system completely and replace with new cooling mixture.
• Remove the bag from the air intake, remove the air intake and check the trottle body for any rust, there shouldn't be any, prime the trottle body by putting about 2 ounces of gasoline directly.
• Place the air intake back properly,
• Move the key from lock to just where you can hear the fuel pump working do this at least 10 times and try starting at the 11th time.
• Only turn on for about 10 seconds and turn it off, check your oil level and top up.
• Now you can turn it on and go for a ride making sure to test your brakes by doing a few go and stops at slow speed before you decide to go far.

Ardennes1944

wasnt there big like air sacs that you can get mentioned here a few months ago? theyre supposed to be very, very good. cant remember the name atal but its basically like an inflated food bag around your car with a dehumidifier attached.

qz

Deutschlandfürimmer7 wrote: »

wasnt there big like air sacs that you can get mentioned here a few months ago? theyre supposed to be very, very good. cant remember the name atal but its basically like an inflated food bag around your car with a dehumidifier attached.

Carcoon.

E39MSport

Classics forum might be better help.

I'm not so sure about supporting the car on stands. All of the joints need to rest in their normal position or they will crack/break imo.

I imagine that the axle stand step is to avoid flat spots. To do that properly I personally would remove the wheels and store on thir sides. Prefereably replace the wheels on the car with some cheapo ones for storage purposes or put the car on stands and support the wheels so that they are almost back at their resting position.

If you use a carcoon then axle stands may not be an option as they may damage the floor cover.

Also, re engine oil, I read elsewhere that you need to fill the engine to the brim with special storage oil. This would obviously stop you from running the engine regularly but again imo, simply running the engine may do more damage than good, afaik, moisture can build up if you don't give it a proper run out and this moisture is destructive.

It's a tricky one. My 8er was in the garage over the winter with a dehumidifier, ctek charger and a radiator - nothing else. It ran fine after 4 months in there. It's outside now under a Noah but I plan to run it every few weeks. I'd rather run them every so often than to leave them permanently static.

Best of luck.

edit: - btw, carcoon.co.uk

wildefalcon

All of the above.

De humidifier is the key.

Treat the leather thoroughly.

Silicone grease or rubber treatment on all rubber components.

Waxoil or Dinitrol on all the underside - inside the doors, cavities.

Watch out for roof liner sag. prop it in place with a sheet of perspex or similar.

Vermin are a real issue, also do some research on positive earth corrosion prevention systems.

Does it have a ECU/electronics? They may need special minding.

Overfill all mechanical parts with storage oil - it has low detergent so it doesn't attack seals etc. BIG STICKER ON STEERING WHEEL COVER: drain and refill before starting.

Fuel stabilizer in the fuel system throughout - full tank to prevent the tank rotting. Or remove the thank and have the system empty - not sure about this. Don't leave normal petrol in the system, it turns into varnish.

Brake calipers should have the pads removed and the disks covered in grease, don't forget the handbrake.

galwaytt

Stinicker wrote: »

In the last week my current car and first car has become un-practical to repair. I have decided to effectively mothball the car as its resale value is only about €800 - €1000 now however its sentimental value is massive to me. .....The car is still practically perfect bar some dodgy brakes, its Achilles heel is its 30mpg fuel consumption and I don't consider €100+ trips to the petrol station to be so good anymore........

...before I address specifics, I understand your feelings, but 30mpg is not excessive consumption, really. Most modern petrol equivalents of your car now, would still only do 30-something........

Stinicker wrote: »

.I am thinking of buying a small shipping container and getting it insulated with spray on foam to house the car in, I have plenty room, I am wonder about preservation for the engine and interior which is leather. Being in an enclosed container there would be no light to fade anything. I am also prepared to build a shed or some sort of structure to help preserve the container holding my pride and joy.

First: forget the steel container. It will reek of condensation, it will bake when hot, and freeze solid when cold. Even if you have it insulated. Rubbers will dry out, seals (incl crank ones :mad:) will perish, etc. There is no airflow in them, either. I have one, and I know.


Now, I too have a 'practical' classic, which I've been mothballing for a while, and it is well minded, in a lovely heated, insulated garage, has good breathable fabric cover etc etc and..............still things gave up inside 2 years of storage: not least, power steering pump.

So, I'm 'taking it to the next level' and have just built a new 6.8m x 3.8m 'garage', but which in fact is a very high performance building. It is designed effectively to be passive. I should point out that I have the advantage I work there, but it's working experiment to see if the 'product' is marketable as well.

Quick pic, here: https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/44189/155405.JPG

Just waiting on the insulated sectional door and to tile the interior and give a 2nd coat of paint to walls/ceilings, to finish.

I'll be putting up a thread on it when it's 100% done.

It was erected in 5 hours.

Stinicker wrote: »

I wonder would it be best to put it on axel stands and remove the wheels? I would remove the battery and I am wondering should I remove all the vital fluids? Drain/siphon the petrol tank, losen the sump nut and drain the oil, similarly with brake fluid, the autobox is a sealed unit and never had to do anything with it so I wonder what would the scenario be for this, break the permanent seal and drain the fluid or let the fluid to age gracefully.

I would get it fully powerwashed and steam cleaning it before entering it into its new tomb for a few decades.

Any ideas to further its preservation over the years, I don't want to let it rot away and want to mothball it and drive it out of its sarcophagus in the same condition as it practically went in probably some time around the 2030's - 2040's if I live that long.

If you are really serious about that length of mothballing, then you are going to have to take it to an extreme level. And you'll still need to keep an eye on it. I did a 10 yr once, and it was bloody hard work, and, ultimately, not worth it. I should have used the car.

Don't go draining gearbox - leave it well alone.

I would advise that you should think about running it at least once every few month's or so, and I don't mean for 5 minutes, either - I mean a good toasting to get everything hot.

antodeco

galwaytt wrote: »

So, I'm 'taking it to the next level' and have just built a new 6.8m x 3.8m 'garage', but which in fact is a very high performance building. It is designed effectively to be passive. I should point out that I have the advantage I work there, but it's working experiment to see if the 'product' is marketable as well.

Quick pic, here: https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/44189/155405.JPG

Is that a fully built from foundation building, or was it a "pop-up" building?