Stove chimney draw.

feckincrazy

Hi im after installing a stove into a fire place. I havnt lit the stove yet as i am waiting on a pallet of reclamed red brick. Its an old unlined chimeny i installed it to. i built up the chimenty and sealed it with a steel plate and fire cement. The draw on the previous fire was excelent its just i was fed up of burning as much fuel as i use to. Im just curious before i complete the brickwork. Can anyone tell me that this will work if the draw of the chimeny will be sufficent. I hope it is as it is sealed all round.

Carlow52

I haven't lit the stove yet as i am waiting on a pallet of reclaimed red brick

be interesting to see how well the red brick burns:D

U can test the draw buy burning some newspaper in the stove.

The chimney will perform best when it is warmed up.

As a matter of interest what size flue is in the unlined chimney and what size is flue from stove

feckincrazy

Its unlined as in theres no flue at all! its an old type chimney that ya nearly stand up in! There is a great draw on the fire say il be safe enough. Hopefully!

Buford T Justice

If you're putting in a modern solid fuel stove, then you should really look into lining the chimney.

You can get smoke pellets in plumbers merchants to test the chimney draw.

rpmcs

ok if you havent a flue/ clay or other wise the smoke will swirl after leaving stove and then it may or may not work properly, but do you have a soot box or how do you intend to clean chimney? pic would be great,
As said its better practice to reline chimney, ,,,,reasons
1. smaller flue will heat up quicker
2. more direct passage for flue, ie no large spaces for smoke to swirl and as it swirls it will take path of least resistance and it that is back in room,,,it will!!
3. chimney cleaning... relined all soot comes in to stove/ no chimney fire!!
4. even if it works ok for a while it may be hitting a cold spot 2/3 up the chimney and down the road/few yrs you may find your chimney partically blocked at this point from soot and condensation combining and leaving a hard tar residue
just my pennys worth, open fires are totally different to stoves so just because open fire worked fine does not mean stove will!

DoneDL

insulated liner and closure plate is a must otherwise you`ll have nothing but problems.

feckincrazy

Ive sealed up the pipe with plate steel and fire cement. chimney is clear. also chimeny is bout 2-3 foot in diamter. A fire cudnt start in it if it was clear hasnt been one in yet. Red brick arived il finish it today!

CashMoney

I foresee this in the not too distant future.

feckincrazy

I dont see how it is going to be a problem. There has been an open fire in same chimney its slate and lime mortar say il be safe enough. It can be taken out handy to clean it out as well.

CashMoney

feckincrazy wrote: »

I dont see how it is going to be a problem. There has been an open fire in same chimney its slate and lime mortar say il be safe enough. It can be taken out handy to clean it out as well.

I'm afraid it doesn't work like that. There is a big difference in how an open fire and a stove work. For a start, you need the chimney to warm up sufficiently to keep the draw going. You have to remember that a stove damper only allows a small amount of air through the stove so it needs a fairly strong 'suck' to work properly.

1. Your chimney won't heat up
2. Your chimney won't have a strong enough draw
3. Your warm air from the stove will meet cold air half way up the chimney
4. You will have condensate on the chimney walls
5. You will have smoke clinging to the condensate causing tar
6. You will see a creosote buildup like in the previous photo

These are the facts, but sure you know what you're doing...why bother come here looking for advice?

feckincrazy

Havnt lit it yet as ive been away. But the open fire that was there before had no problem with draw. Plus if there is no creosote build up from an open fire how is there going to build up from the stove? Chimney heat up? The chimney is bout 4 ft x 3ft square so in order to warm that up yad want to warm a chimeny that size. Chimney draws vary on the poistein of the chimney and what way the chimeny flue or chimney os at an angle in order to have a draw. The chimeny is made from slate and lime mortar if tar builds up im sure a rub of the rod and brushes will clean it out. The only way to line it would be a flexi liner. But with the width of the chimeny and the length of the chimeny there would be no sufficent place. the chimeny would not be strong or rigid enough to hold liner in place. I couldnt use one of those twin wall liners as there is no wall that i could bore a hole in as i am in a terace of houses. I was limited of options. All i have done is ran the stove straight into the open chimney. sealed around it with plate steel and fire cement. chimney is 100% sealed if it works it works if dosent we wont cry over spilled milk. Only cost me the stove, brick was got from a repo sale so not worth worrying bout.

CashMoney

You came here looking for advice. As explained, you can't compare the draw of an open fire with that of a stove. I gave you an answer that you didn't want to hear so here's your answer. It will work brilliantly.

Carlow52

feckincrazy wrote: »

.... I couldn't use one of those twin wall liners as there is no wall that i could bore a hole in as i am in a terrace of houses. ....

so this chimney is in a common wall between u and your neighbour.

As pointed out ad nauseum here the installation is wrong, however you don't seem to be bothered.

If you were living out in the middle of a field with no neighbors I would be bothered either, however if you have a chimney fire as a result of this sloppy, shoddy workmanship.....

feckincrazy

Right how can a flue be inserted? apart from a flexi flew. The chimney as stated is 4ft x 3ft cleaned regularly. Slate with lime mortar. There has been no fire in the last 100 and so od years.
If the chimney is cleared regularly which it is and the size of the chimney how can a fire start?

The majority of sparking from the fire will be in the stove the only thing going up the chimney will be smoke. An even if a tar forms if the chimney is cleaned twice a year how will the tar form.

Another point if i was to use a 5 inch flue liner that would have to cleaned more often as it is a tighter space.

I would have no problem putting in a flexi liner if i could of tied it in a way that could of held the liner in a rigid enough place to allow it to be cleaned.

Buford T Justice

Again, you must line the chimney. Solid fuel stoves and open fires are different.

In an open fire, 80% or thereabouts of the heat goes up the chimney which heats the whole chimney up.

On the other hand, solid fuel stoves are more than 80% efficent, so very little heat will go up the chimney. Therefore, the smoke will condense on its way up the chimney and tar will build up on the blocks. Among other things, it will seep through the blocks and stain the walls.

Then again, you've got you're mind made up, so go ahead and let us all know how it goes for you...

P.S, ever tried to clean tar off the side of a car that gets there from the roads..... try cleaning the chimney with a brush and see how much tar comes off it.

I don't see any reason why you just can't clean the flue with a chimney brush.

sinjim

Dont use a 90 degree bend coming off any stove destroys the draw.fit your stove in place, and come off the top with approx 1 metre of pipe, just enough to get you through the registered plate mentioned below, then.......

1.Install a registerd plate with a cleaning door.
2.Remove the flue terminal pot
3.Drop a liner down the chimney either 5 or 6 inch depending on the stove
4.Fill the void round the flexi liner with a mix of vermiculite, cement and water (6+1+1)
5.Attach the top of the liner to a clamping plate
6.Replace the flue terminal pot

Jobs oxo