VFC Scar - wiring in the stock

sliabh

I need to rewire the stock of a VFC SCAR and I was wondering of anyone can tell me what will be needed and/or take a photo of the connections inside?

Why is a little complicated. I am living in Austria at the moment (where I have a nice AK) but my SCAR remains in Ireland with my parents for when I want to play there. On my last trip to Ireland one of the wires seperated from the fuse (fixable) and another which was badly bent broke entirely.

I thought the standard of wiring in general in the stock was poor, so to fix these two problems I want to redo the wiring there completely. My problem is I will only have a day with the gun when I am next home, so I need to pre-order the bits. And as me and the gun are in seperate countries I don't know what I will need.

I want to redo the wiring from the connections at the stock hinge (whatever type they are) to fuse and on to the tamya battery connector.

So can anyone tell me what bits will be needed?

Thanks in advance for any help.

se conman

If you drop a PM to telebasher , he has just finished re-wiring my VFC scar (fitted a mosfet in the stock) He is a decent guy and I am sure he will help you out.

-PornStar-

If you are looking for wire I recommend www.bulkwire.com. I ordered from them on a Monday, and it arrived Friday. You should use teflon wire as opposed to silicon coated wire. Silicon is a lot thicker, and a lot more fragile. Teflon on the other hand, seems almost bullet proof (well bb proof at least). I ordered 25ft of 16 gauge, black and red wire. 16 gauge is ideal for AEG's, lower gauge could be better, but is more likely unnecessary.

Lemming

-PornStar- wrote: »

If you are looking for wire I recommend www.bulkwire.com. I ordered from them on a Monday, and it arrived Friday. You should use teflon wire as opposed to silicon coated wire. Silicon is a lot thicker, and a lot more fragile. Teflon on the other hand, seems almost bullet proof (well bb proof at least). I ordered 25ft of 16 gauge, black and red wire. 16 gauge is ideal for AEG's, lower gauge could be better, but is more likely unnecessary.

AFAIK, 18awg is the optimal for maximum current throughput. The difference between 18 and 16 gauge is not going to see massive returns; a few MaH over the course of a battery's charge.

Also, do you actually need Teflon coated wiring for airsoft? Not like the wiring is exposed more than is absolutely necessary (e.g. changing battery). Given that the site you've linked to requires purchasing rather large (and unnecessary imo) amounts of wiring, the pricing is excessive.

You can go onto Component shop and buy 18awg silicon wiring by the meter for 65p, or less if you start ordering by the 10s of meters.

-PornStar-

Lemming wrote: »

AFAIK, 18awg is the optimal for maximum current throughput. The difference between 18 and 16 gauge is not going to see massive returns; a few MaH over the course of a battery's charge.

Also, do you actually need Teflon coated wiring for airsoft? Not like the wiring is exposed more than is absolutely necessary (e.g. changing battery). Given that the site you've linked to requires purchasing rather large (and unnecessary imo) amounts of wiring, the pricing is excessive.

You can go onto Component shop and buy 18awg silicon wiring by the meter for 65p, or less if you start ordering by the 10s of meters.

True, and as you say, it may be worth going for 18awg. For this I would advise sticking with teflon.

There really is a big difference in diameter between teflon and silicon coating. I done a lot of damage to the stock wires my m4 came with. Especially around the motor area. It just felt like the wires were beat into the mechbox when putting it together. Teflon wires fit in easy, and stay incredibly rigid. Plus there is easily enough room for additional wires, for an ASCU for example. Teflon wires don't grip like silicon, so they don't snag on anything. Such as when inserting a motor into an armalite grip, not a huge problem I know but still.

Yes teflon coated wires are a lot more expensive, and do exactly the same job at the end of the day. Its a personal preference whether you believe the added benefits are worth the extra cost.

sliabh

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I am happyt enough with the wiring situation (I was planning to ordering 18 AWG from the component shop anyway), it is the "what else will I need" that is bugging me.

In particular I would like to know how the existing wiring is connected to the contacts in the stock - soldered, heat shrunk connectors, or what? That sort if information will give me a better idea what sort of stuff I need to order.

-PornStar-

Yeah heat shrink is always handy to have around. You will need some female spade connectors to connect to your motor, not sure about the size. Need some battery connectors too, deans/tamiya.

Heat shrink around the spade connectors, makes for a tidy job. Need some for deans connectors too.

sliabh

-PornStar- wrote: »

Yeah heat shrink is always handy to have around. You will need some female spade connectors to connect to your motor, not sure about the size. Need some battery connectors too, deans/tamiya.

The thing is I am not going near the motor. The VFC has a nifty set of contact pins in the stock hinge, and my wiring problems are all up stream of there.

-PornStar-

sliabh wrote: »

The thing is I am not going near the motor. The VFC has a nifty set of contact pins in the stock hinge, and my wiring problems are all up stream of there.

Ahhh ok. Ill shut up then

sliabh

-PornStar- wrote: »

Ahhh ok. Ill shut up then

Thanks for the suggestions though!

Lemming

I'll probably need to be pulling my VFC scar apart as well to sort out an intermittent gearbox issue and a developed wiring issue in the stock, so I'd be interested in knowing how you get on with this sliabh