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Oh Dear

  • 29-03-2011 2:37pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,344 ✭✭✭


    I recently mixed up a new batch of Coopers Heritage lager with the Coopers Light Malt Extract Light 1.5 Kg. 23litres of it have been in the ~25litre fermenter with a ubend water seal for 2/3 days now.

    Problem is there has been no bubbling from the water seal. I have made beer before and this is the first time this has happened. The temperature is 21 degrees C and the fermenter is wrapped in a blanket to keep the temp up. I can see the "scum" line over the top of the fluid which AFAIK is a sign that the yeast is fermenting.

    Is it just the case that my fermenter isn't air tight and if so does that mean my brew is ruined? Is there anything I can do to save it??? I have been looking at the fermenter and all I can think of is that the lid isn't sealed tight enough but surely that wouldn't let too much air in/out?


Comments

  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    You're fine. :D

    Put not your faith in airlocks nor lids. Probably the gas is escaping some other way. All the lid is for is to stop crap falling into your bucket. There's no lids on the likes of these lads, for instance:
    3166685740_3f4f311d44.jpg

    Give it a week then take a hydrometer reading, but if it looks like fermentation is happening then it sounds like everything's fine.

    21 is a smidge warm, mind. I'd say you can ditch the blanket.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,381 ✭✭✭oblivious


    it does not need to be air tight while fermenting as the CO2 given off will protect the beer, once fermentation has subsidised you can seal it up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,344 ✭✭✭death1234567


    BeerNut wrote: »
    21 is a smidge warm, mind. I'd say you can ditch the blanket.
    Yeah? I thought it was supposed to be in the range 18-28 Degrees C for normal beers and then cooler for the european pilsners etc. ~15/16 degrees.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Yeah? I thought it was supposed to be in the range 18-28 Degrees C for normal beers and then cooler for the european pilsners etc. ~15/16 degrees.
    18's good all round. Any "lager" kit like yours will come out better if fermented cooler: 16-18 or so. Ales are happy up to 22 or 23, but much beyond that and off flavours become more likely. 28 is fine for pitching a yeast but not a good fermentation temp.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    I started a batch of homebrew last saturday. I checked the hydrometer on Wed and it was 1020. It's still 1020 today with no activity at the airlock. Have i lost this batch ?...i know it's supposed to be about 1007 before i can bottle it


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Tough call. Assuming your temperatures are OK, I'd say sanitise a big spoon or paddle and gently stir up the wort: you just want to get the stuff from the bottom of the bucket spread through it. Leave that a week and see if it makes a difference. Failing that you could pitch a new packet of yeast, and that doesn't work I'd say bottle anyway and see what happens (though leave your bottles somewhere that explosions won't be a problem).

    What was your starting gravity?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    I just checked it a few mins ago...it's 1014. Still no activity at the airlock. My gravity at the start was 1045. I think it was too warm when i pitched the yeast (it was about 36C)
    The mix has been at about 22C - 24C for most of the week


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 854 ✭✭✭mayto


    Jen32 wrote: »
    I just checked it a few mins ago...it's 1014. Still no activity at the airlock. My gravity at the start was 1045. I think it was too warm when i pitched the yeast (it was about 36C)
    The mix has been at about 22C - 24C for most of the week

    It might drop a bit further to 1012 or below, but would not think by much. Usually its fine to bottle a beer in the 1012-1014 range as long as the readings have stabilised. I don't think I ever had a kit beer or all grain beer finish below 1010. A lot of beer kit instructions are pretty poor and I myself would probably leave the beer for a couple of weeks before bottling if fermentation is done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    Ok thanks. If i decide to bottle it in a few days (assuming i get consistent readings), will there be an off-taste or will it be weaker than it should be ?
    This is my first time trying this


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 854 ✭✭✭mayto


    Jen32 wrote: »
    Ok thanks. If i decide to bottle it in a few days (assuming i get consistent readings), will there be an off-taste or will it be weaker than it should be ?

    I would probably leave the beer for at least 10 days before bottling as the yeast will clean up the beer and also more yeast will drop out, leaving the beer clearer and less yeast in bottle :). Your beer will probably finish not much below 1014 so you should get at least a 4% beer and it should taste fine after a few weeks in the bottle


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Jen32 wrote: »
    it's 1014.
    Good. Everything's fine.
    Jen32 wrote: »
    Still no activity at the airlock.
    The airlock isn't important. The gas could just be getting out some other way.
    Jen32 wrote: »
    I think it was too warm when i pitched the yeast (it was about 36C)
    Well you didn't kill it, which would be the main worry.
    Jen32 wrote: »
    The mix has been at about 22C - 24C for most of the week
    On the high side, but it'll still be beer at the end. As mayto says: leave it until it's finished and then bottle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    Thanks for the advice guys. The instructions said to keep it between 21c and 27c. I was going to chuck it out but i think i'll bottle it next week and see what happens.
    Whats the best temperature to add the yeast (for next time) ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 854 ✭✭✭mayto


    I usually rehydrate the yeast in half a cup of water (boiled and cooled) at about 30C for about 20 min. I add this to the wort which is usually at about 20C. I like to ferment in the 18C to 19C range myself.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    It's best to pitch at about 27 and ferment at about 18.

    Kit instructions are not your friend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    I used a Coopers Kit. I let the temp drop to 18C for the first couple of days and there was no fermentation so that's why i increased it to 24C.
    Didn't realise the instructions weren't great. I should be able to make a better go of it next time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,344 ✭✭✭death1234567


    mayto wrote: »
    Your beer will probably finish not much below 1014
    Just to back this up my beer batch finished at 1014 after 7/8 days fermenting and it was one of the coopers kits. (OG 1052)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    Yes...looks like 1014 will be the finish line for me too. Just hope the bottles don't start exploding on me....be a shame to waste all that beer :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    Forgot to ask....at what temp should you store the beer after you've bottled it, or is that important ?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Bottle conditioning is just fermentation again, so 18 degrees is optimal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭Jen32


    Thanks BeerNut....appreciate the help :)


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