Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

DO SLURRY CHANNELS WORK

  • 17-03-2011 10:29pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,551 ✭✭✭


    thinking about a slurry channel to take slurry about 55 ft but i am getting conflicting reports, any suggestions, saw a fella using a 2ft pipe in the journal


Comments

  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Depends what goes in them! They need a sort of dam/step at the outlet so that there is always water in them. If I was doing them Id make them box shape with a gang slat on top so if they blocked they could easily be got at with a power hose or fire hose on the slurry tank.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,535 ✭✭✭cjpm


    They are fine, perfect for an automatic scraper system. . You will need a stub wall at the end to keep water in it. About a foot high is perfect.


    However it does help if you don't scrape the outside yards into them if the cows bring sand and gravel onto them with their hooves. If you do need to do this then I'd agree with blue 5000 regarding a gang slat just in case of cleaning, might be only used once every 20 years.....

    Also if we ever have to add water or soiled water to the main tank we let it in at the end of the channel to give it a good flush.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,296 ✭✭✭leg wax


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Depends what goes in them! They need a sort of dam/step at the outlet so that there is always water in them. If I was doing them Id make them box shape with a gang slat on top so if they blocked they could easily be got at with a power hose or fire hose on the slurry tank.
    why not put the channel beside the agitation point so you could just turn the pump nossel and pump the slurry down the channel to unblock or if it did not work correctly you could transfer slurry form one tank to the other this way.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    From what I remember reading in the journal, you have to allow a for certain fall over a distance (gradient) in the slurry. A 1 ft lip at the end too to trap water. Bottom of the channel is kept level. The article I read had a 4ft wide by 4 ft deep channel.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 733 ✭✭✭jeff greene


    Mine is only 30 feet, its 4 x 4 with an 18’’ lip at the end. Works perfect in normal weather but a dry spell in the summer will stop it, the hard winter we just had also stopped it, had a mini digger there to keep it clear. Have to be level to work


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭bt12


    work in the scraper business myself, wud suggest 4ft channel with slats and 1ft lip over the pipe


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,551 ✭✭✭keep going


    fair play thanks for that. didnt realise they had to be that big. slightly going off idea 55ft is along way if she struggles a bit at 30ft, might build a tank and pump it across every so many weeks. bt12 your in the scraper bizz any yoke for the job


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 146 ✭✭denis086


    we have 3 30ft channels along the length of a cubicle house only have trouble with one because the lip on the end is too wide so slurry dries on top of the lip and blocks it or sometimes it gets blocked inside it under the slats so we just flush it with the filler hose on the slurry spreader only had to do it a hand full of times since it went in


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    What you could do to keep the slurry moving is build in a water pipe so that it comes up through the floor of the channel, at the top end of the channel. You could bring it up also through the middle of the side wall. A regular 1/2" water pipe would do, stainless steel , even better.
    Turn it on then for a few mins each day, only in the very dry weather. It should keep things moving. If it doesn't work - no harm done.;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 194 ✭✭what happen


    a man out the road from me has a 3bay cattle shed with 2 bays slatted tank and a cubicle house running into third bay.he has tank 4 foot deep running to 2 foot deep then he has a 2 foot concrete pipe going underground to open tank 30 x 70 great job.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,551 ✭✭✭keep going


    saw a fella the other day and he had a 12" pipe carrying the slurry 100ft with fall of 3%.says its worked fine since 88.any opinions


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    keep going wrote: »
    saw a fella the other day and he had a 12" pipe carrying the slurry 100ft with fall of 3%.says its worked fine since 88.any opinions

    You should ask him if he adds any water in very dry or frosty weather.
    Is rain water getting into the pipe? This would help it move too.

    Why use a pipe when a channel will do? Easier to get in and clean the channel if it gets blocked.
    Anyone that has pushed slurry by hand will tell ya:rolleyes:, a small bit of water makes a big difference.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,551 ✭✭✭keep going


    i think the trick is no silage scraps and regular scraping. easier to put in than a box channel


Advertisement