Beer kit questions

30kmph

I just bought a kit. The beer is sitting in the bucket fermenting. The instructions on the kit say to leave it in the bucket for 4 to 6 days or until fermentation is complete.

I also bought a secondary and a syphon.

The guy in the shop bamboolzed me with information, and I'm more or less forgotten everything. Couple of questions:

1. Do I transfer to the secondary after the fermentation period of 4-6 days?
2. How long do I leave it in the secondary for?
3. What next?

Cheers!

BeerNut

30kmph wrote: »

1. Do I transfer to the secondary after the fermentation period of 4-6 days?

You can if you like. It's not essential. It can help clean up a paler, lighter beer.

30kmph wrote: »

2. How long do I leave it in the secondary for?

Until fermentation is finished, ie you have a series of two or three identical hydrometer readings a few days apart.

30kmph wrote: »

3. What next?

Bottle.

Full guide to kit brewing here.

Lars

Hi Beernut and 30kpmh, my first brew is fermenting as we speak. I've similar questions to 30kmph.
I think I'll leave it in the fermenter until it stops fermenting(checked with hydrometer) and then transfer to second container and bottle it straight away. I expect this to be after about 1week to 10days. Is that right??
I'm using an Edme Superbrew Gold Lager from homebrew.ie but i keep reading that lager needs to ferment at 10deg. Whats the deal with this stuff? it says ferment at 18~21deg for 4-6 days.
Also, the guy who sold it to me said to add 100g household sugar to the mix when bottling to carbonate. from what ive seen I should add that to about 100ml of warm water to dissolve and then add to mix. Does this sound right?
Also, when can i drink it and be sure its at its best? After how long in the bottles? I really want the first brew to be good to keep my enthusiasm up!!

thanks!

oblivious

Lars wrote: »

Also, the guy who sold it to me said to add 100g household sugar to the mix when bottling to carbonate. from what ive seen I should add that to about 100ml of warm water to dissolve and then add to mix. Does this sound right?

yep, or or you could boil the sugar solution for a few minutes to santise it


Also, when can i drink it and be sure its at its best? After how long in the bottles? I really want the first brew to be good to keep my enthusiasm up!![/QUOTE]

2-3 weeks in the bottle should do it in a warmish place,

BeerNut

Lars wrote: »

I think I'll leave it in the fermenter until it stops fermenting(checked with hydrometer) and then transfer to second container and bottle it straight away. I expect this to be after about 1week to 10days. Is that right?

Longer, I'd say: 10-14 days is more likely, but YMMV. No harm in leaving it the extra few days just to be sure.

Lars wrote: »

I'm using an Edme Superbrew Gold Lager from homebrew.ie but i keep reading that lager needs to ferment at 10deg. Whats the deal with this stuff? it says ferment at 18~21deg for 4-6 days.

There's no such thing as kit lager. Kits with "Lager" written on them are actually blonde ales, supplied with ale yeast, hence the difference in temperature. It's a bit of a swizz, TBH, trying to fool Heineken and Corona drinkers into thinking they can make beer like that in a plastic bucket in the spare room.

30kmph

I opened the lid today (16/3/11) for the first time since starting the process on the 12th. Still bubbling away.

Q1: there was someone on here recently talking about having to throw out a batch with a layer of hairy mold on top and foul smell. Mine smells fine but there are one or 2 patches of what sort of look like a cross between sand & mold on the top of the solution. Should I just leave these and remove later?

Also, my fermentation is running at about 14 or 15 degrees, can't seem to get it any warmer than that. Is that ok? I'm brewing an ale.

Q2: The secondary: is this just for filtration? Do I move from the primary after fermentation is complete, and if so, then would do days suffice in the secondary before moving back?

Thanks

Lars

It's a bit of a swizz, TBH, trying to fool Heineken and Corona drinkers into thinking they can make beer like that in a plastic bucket in the spare room.[/QUOTE]

Are you telling me that the best i can expect is a drink of lesser quality than Heineken or Corona??? That stuff is piss???

BeerNut

30kmph wrote: »

I opened the lid today (16/3/11) for the first time since starting the process on the 12th. Still bubbling away.

It's best to resist doing this. It won't achieve anything and it increases your infection risk.

30kmph wrote: »

Should I just leave these and remove later?

It's fine. Leave it alone. The gunk on the top will get left behind when you syphon to the next vessel.

30kmph wrote: »

Also, my fermentation is running at about 14 or 15 degrees, can't seem to get it any warmer than that. Is that ok? I'm brewing an ale.

It's fine, just allow plenty of time for it to ferment out. No harm wrapping a blanket around the fermenter if you have one.

30kmph wrote: »

Q2: The secondary: is this just for filtration?

It's not filtration, but it can help clear up beers that you want pale.

30kmph wrote: »

Do I move from the primary after fermentation is complete

After the first surge of fermentation would be more normal, so about a week in. If you can't see any reason for a secondary fermentation, don't do it.

30kmph wrote: »

and if so, then would do days suffice in the secondary before moving back?

Back? Back where? After secondary (if you do one) comes bottling.

Lars wrote: »

Are you telling me that the best i can expect is a drink of lesser quality than Heineken or Corona??? That stuff is piss???

I guess you don't appreciate just how much time, effort and technology goes into making Heineken and Corona the beers they are, consistently, batch after batch: that's how industrial brewers measure quality. Malt, hops and yeast all contribute hugely to flavour in different ways, and trying to make a beer with those ingredients which will end up tasting of next-to-nothing is really hard, and beyond the means of the beginner home brewer.

Stouts and ales are fairly easy to make well, even from a kit. The stronger and hoppier they are, the easier they are. If what you want is yellow fizz -- bland like Heineken and Corona or all the way up to Pilsner Urquell or Augustiner Edelstoff -- just buy it, it's not worth the effort trying to brew it unless you're prepared to invest in some pretty involved homebrew kit.

30kmph

BeerNut wrote: »

Back? Back where? After secondary (if you do one) comes bottling.

Back to the primary vessel, because this has a tap on it and a device that makes bottling easier.


As far as I can see, the fermentation process is complete, so I'm going to transfer to the secondary later today.

When should I add sugar, and what sort/brand would people recommend?
...
Also, with regard to infection-risk, I think people are perhaps being over cautious on this. I first made homebrew many many years ago and practically took the lid off every time I walked past it. If you sterilise the containers you will be grand.

BeerNut

30kmph wrote: »

Back to the primary vessel, because this has a tap on it and a device that makes bottling easier.

Ah, so you're using it as a bottling bucket. Fair enough, good idea, but you only need to transfer it to there on bottling day. Put your priming solution in first and syphon the beer from secondary in on top of it.

30kmph wrote: »

When should I add sugar, and what sort/brand would people recommend?

As above, when you're bottling. You want this sugar to be digested when the beer is sealed in the bottle so the carbon dioxide is captured. It doesn't matter what sort of sugar you use for priming as it will have no effect on the taste of the beer. Just make sure you use the right amount.

30kmph

BeerNut wrote: »

Ah, so you're using it as a bottling bucket. Fair enough, good idea, but you only need to transfer it to there on bottling day. Put your priming solution in first and syphon the beer from secondary in on top of it.

As above, when you're bottling. You want this sugar to be digested when the beer is sealed in the bottle so the carbon dioxide is captured. It doesn't matter what sort of sugar you use for priming as it will have no effect on the taste of the beer. Just make sure you use the right amount.

What exactly do you mean when you say priming solution?

Is it that you just add the sugar in the bucket before pouring the beer back in, and then bottle it. Or do you put the sugar into each bottle before bottling?

Sorry if these questions are a bit basic

BeerNut

No probs. You can do either, but best practice is to dissolve the sugar in a small amount of hot water and boil it for a minute or so to sanitise. This is your priming solution. Pour that into your bottling bucket and syphon the beer in on top of it. It will ensure an even spread of the solution throughout the beer, so each bottle will be evenly carbonated.

It's all in the bottling guide.

30kmph

I sourced most of my bottles from a bottle-bin, so I'm thinking that I need to give them a proper good clean.

Is it okay to pop them in a bucket with the sterilising powder that came with my kit and use the bottle brush on them?

Or is this a big no no? :eek:

All suggestions most welcome!

BeerNut

30kmph wrote: »

Is it okay to pop them in a bucket with the sterilising powder that came with my kit and use the bottle brush on them?

You'll probably need to clean them using the brush and making sure any gunk is out and then sanitise them. Using the powder that came with your kit should be fine -- just follow the instructions.

You can also make a cheap no-rinse sanitiser by filling a bucket with 20L of water and adding 30ml of thin bleach and 30ml of vinegar (always add them to the water -- don't mix them neat). A five minute soak in that will sanitise your bottles, or anything else, and you can scale the volumes up or down as you need to.

Lars

BeerNut wrote: »

You can also make a cheap no-rinse sanitiser by filling a bucket with 20L of water and adding 30ml of thin bleach and 30ml of vinegar (always add them to the water -- don't mix them neat). A five minute soak in that will sanitise your bottles, or anything else, and you can scale the volumes up or down as you need to.

Hi BeerNut, whats 'light' bleach? I have Milton . Does that qualify?

BeerNut

Lars wrote: »

whats 'light' bleach?

No idea. I use this:

It's about 60c for two litres. In 30ml doses that's a lot of brewing.

Lars wrote: »

I have Milton

You can use Milton for sanitising, though I've heard people complain about a residual taste from it. It also requires rinsing.

Mashtun

BeerNut wrote: »

No idea. I use this:

It's about 60c for two litres. In 30ml doses that's a lot of brewing.

You can use Milton for sanitising, though I've heard people complain about a residual taste from it. It also requires rinsing.

Top tip;)

BeerNut

Mashtun wrote: »

Top tip;)

Just remember the vinegar as well.

Lars

BeerNut wrote: »

You'll probably need to clean them using the brush and making sure any gunk is out and then sanitise them. Using the powder that came with your kit should be fine -- just follow the instructions.

You can also make a cheap no-rinse sanitiser by filling a bucket with 20L of water and adding 30ml of thin bleach and 30ml of vinegar (always add them to the water -- don't mix them neat). A five minute soak in that will sanitise your bottles, or anything else, and you can scale the volumes up or down as you need to.

Beernut, do you actually use this without rinsing at all? Makes me nervous, the thought of the bleach and vinegar leaving no trace?? Absolutely 100% no rinse?

mayto

I tried it without rinsing using lidl thin bleach and vinegar and ruined a few batches for me. I measured it correctly etc but just did not work for me. Seems to work out fine for a lot of folks though. I moved on to starsan and find the stuff is great,a bottle will last me a long time.

BeerNut

Lars wrote: »

Beernut, do you actually use this without rinsing at all?

Yep.

Lars wrote: »

Absolutely 100% no rinse?

Yep.

Been doing it for two years. Never had a sanitation issue and never had a taste from it.

The recipe, incidentally, is from Charlie Talley, owner of StarSan.

wuben

dont mix the vinegar and bleech together..... mix them separately into the water solution were do you get starzan from been looking a while havent seen it and is it expensive?

Lars

BeerNut wrote: »

Yep.

Yep.

Been doing it for two years. Never had a sanitation issue and never had a taste from it.

The recipe, incidentally, is from Charlie Talley, owner of StarSan.

One more question, how important is draining with this method? I have a bottle drainer. Must I wait till the bottles are completely dry inside or is it ok to sanitise and hang the bottles and then start bottling straight away while they're still wet inside(i just got that tesco bleach and a bottle of Chef distilled malt vinegar)?

Thanks

L

BeerNut

wuben wrote: »

dont mix the vinegar and bleech together..... mix them separately into the water solution

I did say that, but no harm in a reminder. Chlorine gas kills.

wuben wrote: »

were do you get starzan from

Homebrew shop.

wuben wrote: »

is it expensive?

Yes, but a little goes a long way. Get a pH tester and you can monitor a batch of it and only throw it out when it's lost its effectiveness. Beware, though, it's strong stuff. Heard one horror story of a ruined granite worktop: treat StarSan with extreme care.

Lars wrote: »

how important is draining with this method?

Not very.

Lars wrote: »

Must I wait till the bottles are completely dry inside or is it ok to sanitise and hang the bottles and then start bottling straight away while they're still wet inside

The second one.

Lars wrote: »

(i just got that tesco bleach and a bottle of Chef distilled malt vinegar)

That what I use. If you're worried, do a small test batch that you don't mind losing if it goes wrong.
Edit: Wait, no: I use Tesco own-brand vinegar 'cos I'm too cheap even for Chef.

wuben

thanks beer nut

sirgockster

Sorry for the stupid question folks, I will be bottling shortly and I like this idea, Do you use cold water or warm water with this mix?

Lars

I used cold and it worked fine

sirgockster

Cheers Lars much appreciated