What implement or simple peice of machinery would make your work easier ?

bk1991

hey

What implements or simple peice of machinery make you work easier ?

red menace

A money printing machine

pakalasa

A robotic yard scraper, like those Lely ones.
Didn't even bother pricing it - poor but realistic Irish farmer and all that.;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bphBIwv5Vp8&feature=related

whelan1

red menace wrote: »

A money printing machine

my kids are of the opinion that i already have one of these

reilig

Sky Hooks

They'd be great for those high roofs, putting up bales, topping tall trees etc.

sh1tstirrer

whelan1 wrote: »

my kids are of the opinion that i already have one of these

They know it already exists its machine embedded in the outside wall of every bank.

pakalasa

reilig wrote: »

Sky Hooks

They'd be great for those high roofs, putting up bales, topping tall trees etc.

Ya but skyhooks are handy. I don't think I'd manage myself though without a Long Stand.

Upstream

reilig wrote: »

Sky Hooks

They'd be great for those high roofs, putting up bales, topping tall trees etc.

Can't get Sky Hooks in this part of the country:mad: so have to use the telehandler instead.:D

Seriously though the manitou is about the most useful machine on the farm here. It's main jobs are filling the diet feeder in winter and raking the silage in summer, but it gets used all year round for all sorts of jobs, makes lots of things a lot easier, don't know where we'd be without it.

We have four attachments
Forks - loading bulk bags and moving pallets
Rake - for silage
Bale spike - for handling the big straw bales
Bucket - loading the diet feeder, cleaning yards and spreading gravel, also a stable platform for accessing roofs and hard to reach places up to about 6m, would need Sky Hooks for anything higher than that:)

reilig

pakalasa wrote: »

I don't think I'd manage myself though without a Long Stand.

They're handy allright. You'd be lost during the dry summers without one. Good in the snow too!!!

BeeDI

Don't have a lot of gear myself to be honest. However I have firmly decided to get myself two pieces of gear this year.
Firstly a wheel digger. JCB or maybe a MF50HX. Awful lot of bits and pieces I could do in summer, and have it in winter around the yard. 3 in 1 front bucket and pallet forks a must. Budget tight €6k.
Secondly and before next winter feeding season a bale slicer. Trying to untangle bales of silage with a four prong fork, can be sooooooooo frustrating, never mind hard on the back.

reilig

BeeDI wrote: »

Don't have a lot of gear myself to be honest. However I have firmly decided to get myself two pieces of gear this year.
Firstly a wheel digger. JCB or maybe a MF50HX. Awful lot of bits and pieces I could do in summer, and have it in winter around the yard. 3 in 1 front bucket and pallet forks a must. Budget tight €6k.
Secondly and before next winter feeding season a bale slicer. Trying to untangle bales of silage with a four prong fork, can be sooooooooo frustrating, never mind hard on the back.

I've got 1 of these, 2 actually - 1 for each shed:

http://www.gardentoolsforallseasons.com/garden%20tools/silage%20knife.php

Can split a bale in less than 30 seconds - just jump on top of it and cut it through. They cost £15 each back in 1984 and we first used them for cutting blocks out of the pit. The're still like new.

Couldn't justify a bale splitter when I have this.

If you are buying a bale splitter choose a MCHale (or one of its copies) over a cashels bale buster and you won't regret it.

BeeDI

reilig wrote: »

I've got 1 of these, 2 actually - 1 for each shed:

http://www.gardentoolsforallseasons.com/garden%20tools/silage%20knife.php

Can split a bale in less than 30 seconds - just jump on top of it and cut it through. They cost £15 each back in 1984 and we first used them for cutting blocks out of the pit. The're still like new.

Couldn't justify a bale splitter when I have this.

If you are buying a bale splitter choose a MCHale (or one of its copies) over a cashels bale buster and you won't regret it.

Yes, I totally agree with your philospohy. Have one of those for nearly 25 years. However .......... time and tide waits for no man. The auld back has taken a fair old battering over the years. Spent two weeks in January totally crocked up with it. Ok again now, but aiming to spare myself as much of the dragging as possible for next winter.

pakalasa

Ya, +1 on minding the auld back.
I've done crazy stuff myself down tru the years. I've a bad back now to proove it.

MfMan

BeeDI wrote: »

Don't have a lot of gear myself to be honest. However I have firmly decided to get myself two pieces of gear this year.
Firstly a wheel digger. JCB or maybe a MF50HX. Awful lot of bits and pieces I could do in summer, and have it in winter around the yard. 3 in 1 front bucket and pallet forks a must. Budget tight €6k.
Secondly and before next winter feeding season a bale slicer. Trying to untangle bales of silage with a four prong fork, can be sooooooooo frustrating, never mind hard on the back.

2 or 3-prong fork more practical for teasing out round bales surely?

One device I could do with is a wire strainer which would allow one to put up wire strands on one's own; something that would take the strain and hold it while you tap in the staples.

jeff greene

MfMan wrote: »

One device I could do with is a wire strainer which would allow one to put up wire strands on one's own; something that would take the strain and hold it while you tap in the staples.

One could use the ratchet type strainer/insulators for such a job, one would then find its a one man job.

BeeDI

MfMan wrote: »

2 or 3-prong fork more practical for teasing out round bales surely? I have one of each around the place, when you get a stubborn bale nothing seems to work at time. The stubborn one is always the middle one when you have three lined up in the passage. You cant get back to it with the bale handler to help bust it:rolleyes:

One device I could do with is a wire strainer which would allow one to put up wire strands on one's own; something that would take the strain and hold it while you tap in the staples.

Absolutely indispensible. Spent so many years gouling and arsing trying (and failing) to tighten barbed wire and high tensile wire. Got a Hayes strainer a few years back. Such a Godsend. Better then having another lad with you, if you could find one:rolleyes:

vanderbadger

MfMan wrote: »

2 or 3-prong fork more practical for teasing out round bales surely?

One device I could do with is a wire strainer which would allow one to put up wire strands on one's own; something that would take the strain and hold it while you tap in the staples.

you tried a gripple
great yoke for straininga fence
http://www.gripple.com/products/catalogue/agricultural/products/torq-tensioning-toolag.html

Muckit

jeff greene wrote: »

One could use the ratchet type strainer/insulators for such a job, one would then find its a one man job.

Spend the communion money on a hayes wire strainer. Oil it and mind it. You won't regret buying it

jeff greene

Muckit wrote: »

Spend the communion money on a hayes wire strainer. Oil it and mind it. You won't regret buying it

I have only a small bit of it left, how much is it?:)

The ratchet strainers are great I find, easy to tighten and put up. The Hayes strainer would be useful for barbed wire tho, we have a one that uses a chain, does the job but a bit awkward.

jeff greene

BeeDI wrote: »

Firstly a wheel digger. JCB or maybe a MF50HX. Awful lot of bits and pieces I could do in summer, and have it in winter around the yard. 3 in 1 front bucket and pallet forks a must. Budget tight €6k.
Secondly and before next winter feeding season a bale slicer. Trying to untangle bales of silage with a four prong fork, can be sooooooooo frustrating, never mind hard on the back.

I can recommend the 50hx, would be lost without it, it was down for a week recently and got my friends 390t, hopeless compared to it. I paid 13k for mine last summer but older ones can be got in your budget. Easily repaired and part are got easy too, good on diesel also.

Get your bales chopped and you won't need a slicer, especially if you get the loader

Username John

jeff greene wrote: »

I have only a small bit of it left, how much is it?:)

I got one the same as in the link below about 2 years ago, think it cost around 75euro or so. Very good job... well glad I bought it...
http://www.agritech.org.nz/images/fletcher/Fletcher10.JPG

MfMan

Are these wire strainers easy to use? Do you need a tractor or some other anchor to hold them while you strain? I've been looking them up on the net but can't figure out how they're operated....

Username John

MfMan wrote: »

Are these wire strainers easy to use? Do you need a tractor or some other anchor to hold them while you strain? I've been looking them up on the net but can't figure out how they're operated....

I mainly use mine on the tractor all right - one side onto the front axle or link arms, and then other side onto the wire and strain, then staple to hold it in place...

Oh - and yeah, they're very easy to use. I am nearly always on my own fencing, and I manage fine. I find them a great job to put tension on the wire.

BeeDI

Username John wrote: »

I mainly use mine on the tractor all right - one side onto the front axle or link arms, and then other side onto the wire and strain, then staple to hold it in place...

Oh - and yeah, they're very easy to use. I am nearly always on my own fencing, and I manage fine. I find them a great job to put tension on the wire.

If it's the Hayes version, you have which can be used to strain both barbed wire and plain wire, using a tractor to anchor is not required. When you think about it, it may not be possible to get a tractor in to some places you may be working in.

The way I do it is as follows.

Let's say you are straining barbed wire between points A and B.

Tie the wire to stake A. Unroll to get to stake B. Cut the wire leaving plenty to go around stake B.
Now cut a short piece of wire. Tie around stake B, leaving a few feet trailing.
Then secure the loose chain side of your strainer onto the main wire coming from stake A.
Secure the main tool side of the strainer on to the short wire trailing from stake B.
Feed the chain from maain wire on to the ratcheting tool which is secured to stake B wire.
Now start to ratchet in the chain. Stake B is acting as your anchor.
Keep going till you are happy with the strain.
At this point the wire from stake A will be tight, and will have a loose trailing end which you can pick up, manually strain around stake B. Wind it around stake B a few times and then over the main wire a few times.
Undo the ratchet tool. Hey presto. Tight wire:cool:

Undo the short piece of wire you tied to stake B, and carry it with you to the next place you want to strain wire from.

You can then drive stakes as required along the length of the strained wire, and finish the job.

Takes a bit of practice, but you get the hang of it soon enough.

Username John

BeeDI wrote: »

If it's the Hayes version, you have which can be used to strain both barbed wire and plain wire, using a tractor to anchor is not required. When you think about it, it may not be possible to get a tractor in to some places you may be working in.

The way I do it is as follows.

Let's say you are straining barbed wire between points A and B.

Tie the wire to stake A. Unroll to get to stake B. Cut the wire leaving plenty to go around stake B.
Now cut a short piece of wire. Tie around stake B, leaving a few feet trailing.
Then secure the loose chain side of your strainer onto the main wire coming from stake A.
Secure the main tool side of the strainer on to the short wire trailing from stake B.
Feed the chain from maain wire on to the ratcheting tool which is secured to stake B wire.
Now start to ratchet in the chain. Stake B is acting as your anchor.
Keep going till you are happy with the strain.
At this point the wire from stake A will be tight, and will have a loose trailing end which you can pick up, manually strain around stake B. Wind it around stake B a few times and then over the main wire a few times.
Undo the ratchet tool. Hey presto. Tight wire:cool:

Undo the short piece of wire you tied to stake B, and carry it with you to the next place you want to strain wire from.

You can then drive stakes as required along the length of the strained wire, and finish the job.

Takes a bit of practice, but you get the hang of it soon enough.

100% right - dont need tractor to anchor, but I always do. But this is prob because I dont use enough strainer posts
Normal posts I find arent able to take the strain

I put posts up first, then use tractor to anchor (where I can admittedly) to pull wire. And pull every 5 - 6 stakes, staple, and away I go again. I should also mention its sheep wire I put up... But its very quickly done done with the strainer, and far better too....

PMU

reilig wrote: »

I've got 1 of these, 2 actually - 1 for each shed:

http://www.gardentoolsforallseasons.com/garden%20tools/silage%20knife.php

Can split a bale in less than 30 seconds - just jump on top of it and cut it through. They cost £15 each back in 1984 and we first used them for cutting blocks out of the pit. The're still like new.

Couldn't justify a bale splitter when I have this.

If you are buying a bale splitter choose a MCHale (or one of its copies) over a cashels bale buster and you won't regret it.

i dont believe it! i used one today to cut up fym in a calf-shed(cant get the loader into the back of the shed

Bodacious

MfMan wrote: »

2 or 3-prong fork more practical for teasing out round bales surely?

One device I could do with is a wire strainer which would allow one to put up wire strands on one's own; something that would take the strain and hold it while you tap in the staples.

+1 Used one this year for the first time and they a mighty job especially as you can walk back the fence and check tightness and pull it down into hollows etc:)

Always used the two hammers before this but you can waste time taking out staples and/or retightening if its not right

Bitten & Hisses

A skid steer loader for yard work would be the single best labour saving item I could get, but there isn't a hope of me being able to afford one for a good while yet.
I also have a Hayes strainer and couldn't even consider putting up barbed wire without it. My log splitter is the most recent labour saving implement I bought and would be completely lost without it now.

blue5000

Originally Posted by red menace
"A money printing machine

my kids are of the opinion that i already have one of these "

So is my mrs!

Seriously though a quad would be handy this time of year for temporary fencing etc. etc.

Upstream

Username John wrote: »

I got one the same as in the link below about 2 years ago, think it cost around 75euro or so. Very good job... well glad I bought it...
http://www.agritech.org.nz/images/fletcher/Fletcher10.JPG

Very useful tool that, leaves the wire good and tight.

When you're out fencing, a pair of these fencing pliers are handy to have.


The nips on top are great for pulling out nails or staples, twisting strands of wire and forming loops in wire.
Also, I think you can crimp on wire joiners with these.
Below that are the slots for cutting wire
and the grips at the bottom are handy for stretching barbed wire.

They'll also hammer a steeple or two if your stuck as well.

leg wax

a retractable roof for the farm would be good open and close as i want, hey lets just get one for the whole country.:rolleyes:

Muckit

BeeDI wrote: »

Now cut a short piece of wire. Tie around stake B, leaving a few feet trailing.

I use a length (about 4-5') of heavy soft rope instead. Tie the 2 ends together to double it up. run it though the wire gripper of the ratchet, then through itself. Run it through itself again to make a running noose on the other end to put over top of your strainer.

Picked that tip up from a fencing contractor I worked for years ago.
Rope is much easier to work with than wire;) Save the hands

Muckit

jeff greene wrote: »

I have only a small bit of it left, how much is it?:)

The ratchet strainers are great I find, easy to tighten and put up. The Hayes strainer would be useful for barbed wire tho, we have a one that uses a chain, does the job but a bit awkward.

A bad work man blames his tools The hayes uses a chain too

It's 10years since I bought mine.

Think they should be about €65-€70. Well worth it though. My Oul lad always used a crow bar (make an eye in the end of wire, thread bar through and lever off the strainer, 2man job though and more awkward)

F.D

some sort of gps guidance system we have a field or two with hills in the middle and its hard to find a point to focus on when spreading fert or spraying, and because i dont do it too often i would only have the "eye" for it when its that time of the year to put them away again, thats high on my wish list,

jeff greene

F.D wrote: »

some sort of gps guidance system we have a field or two with hills in the middle and its hard to find a point to focus on when spreading fert or spraying, and because i dont do it too often i would only have the "eye" for it when its that time of the year to put them away again, thats high on my wish list,

I haven’t used one or seen one but a foam blop marker on your spreader may be a cheaper alternative. Just an idea. Other may know more about them.

Bizzum

jeff greene wrote: »

I haven’t used one or seen one but a foam blop marker on your spreader may be a cheaper alternative. Just an idea. Other may know more about them.

A contractor that spread for us had a foam marker on his spreaded.
Great job for spreading on silage ground post harvest. Follow the lines of foam and you cant go to far wrong!

dar31

Bizzum wrote: »

A contractor that spread for us had a foam marker on his spreaded.
Great job for spreading on silage ground post harvest. Follow the lines of foam and you cant go to far wrong!

untill you get a windy day and the foam blows around the field

quad, quad, quad the greatest tool ever.

every thing grinds to a halt with out it

Bizzum

dar31 wrote: »

untill you get a windy day and the foam blows around the field

The precise reason one should not spread fertilizer on a windy day.

jeff greene

dar31 wrote: »

untill you get a windy day and the foam blows around the field

quad, quad, quad the greatest tool ever.

every thing grinds to a halt with out it

What do you do with your quad? Milking?:rolleyes:

dar31

jeff greene wrote: »

What do you do with your quad? Milking?:rolleyes:

never knew you could, just goes to show they are good for everything....

BeeDI

Muckit wrote: »

BeeDI wrote: »

I use a length (about 4-5') of heavy soft rope instead. Tie the 2 ends together to double it up. run it though the wire gripper of the ratchet, then through itself. Run it through itself again to make a running noose on the other end to put over top of your strainer.

Picked that tip up from a fencing contractor I worked for years ago.
Rope is much easier to work with than wire;) Save the hands

Great tip. Cheers for that;)

johngalway

They say you don't miss what you've never had, but I miss my quad :pac: Would take a lot of the donkey work out of my life.

Muckit

BeeDI wrote: »

Muckit wrote: »

Great tip. Cheers for that;)

No bother. I also learnt to stick the end link of the chain on the grips FIRST before pulling the wire by hand and attaching clamp. This way you've the whole of the chain to ratchet off;) You'I never get caught out no matter how long the pull

bk1991

Muckit wrote: »

BeeDI wrote: »

I use a length (about 4-5') of heavy soft rope instead. Tie the 2 ends together to double it up. run it though the wire gripper of the ratchet, then through itself. Run it through itself again to make a running noose on the other end to put over top of your strainer.

Picked that tip up from a fencing contractor I worked for years ago.
Rope is much easier to work with than wire;) Save the hands

wrap chain around post and out tru the hole in middle of wire gripper .Then attach the chain to the other part that climbs the chain .

krazyfarmer

A neck sccop for the crush gate would leave dosing cows a lot easier.

jeff greene

krazyfarmer wrote: »

A neck sccop for the crush gate would leave dosing cows a lot easier.

Yes it would, the new rules for dosing dairy cows now mean every farm should have one. Is there much between the different makes ? Which one would you recommend?

krazyfarmer

jeff greene wrote: »

Yes it would, the new rules for dosing dairy cows now mean every farm should have one. Is there much between the different makes ? Which one would you recommend?

Dont know anything about them. Just seems like a usefull tool.

Swinefluproof

I'd love if I could get some kind of a machine that would milk my cows

whelan1

jeff greene wrote: »

Yes it would, the new rules for dosing dairy cows now mean every farm should have one. Is there much between the different makes ? Which one would you recommend?

those rules are the worst EVER