Rubber insulation cup on back of Arcade CRT

Myrddin

Question for any of the monitor people,

The mentioned rubber insulator that sits on the HT lead going into the tube has perished a bit on my Tekken cab. I noticed loud hissing from the back of it yesterday & took a look. Sure enough there's two small spikes of high tension electricity coming through the cap. So I reached in to see could I touch the blue glow....lol joke.

Basically I'm wondering can these rubber pads be repaired/replaced, or do I need a whole new HT lead?

o1s1n

That's the scary as hell anode cup isn't it? Just uttering those words strike fear into me.

I googled a bit and found the following -

Can I use any anode cup from any monitor?

If it's the same size or a little larger, yes.

I will try and pick up some dead monitors/tv's and see what I can do.

I wonder could you replace it with one from a bog standard CRT television? Would be the cheapest way of getting one if it's a possability.

Jack burton

Well I dont really know what it looks like but would you be able to repair it by running some more rubber up the lead to cover the old rubber completly?

o1s1n

This is the part he's talking about Jack..the rubber anode of death -

Jack burton

Oh right

Could you use to epoxy to do a patch up job on it?

o1s1n

I have absolutely no clue. Due to the dangerously high voltages it might be safer to just replace if there's electricity visibly spiking out of it like Enternow said.

However, just to add to that, I am just working on google knowledge here. The closest I've come to an anode is staring at the thing in terror while changing JAMMA boards.

So I will now exit this thread before I say something that results in Enternow being blasted across his shed by 50,000 volts

Jack burton

I call first dibs on all his stuff if things go tits up when hes fixing this

Myrddin

Wow, JB got there before anyone else. Take care of the MCD 1 for me dude

I'm probably leaning more towards replacing it, rather than repairing it. Whatever repairs it, will have to withstand voltage & not burn my shed to the ground

I hate going hear the things, but I'll take it off at some point & have a closer look.

yrwhu8jxtni06a

Its a one arm job,so be careful,vid here if anyone wants to gawk and learn at it-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDAiLtTDuf4

Myrddin

Dakota Few Groin wrote: »

Its a one arm job,so be careful,vid here if anyone wants to gawk and learn at it-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDAiLtTDuf4

I've done it a few times by now, & it never looses the fear factor involved.

Ronan|Raven

I remember my first time doing it. I don't think I was ever as nervous in my life. I even left my last will and testament scrawled on the wall beside me.

As for discharging the CRT.. well that was a lot easier.

sundodger5

think i saw a thread on the klov forums on this.
Silicone sealant is in my head but if you check the forums it should tell you.

Mitchomagic

Best thing thing to do is first remove it,it might be dirt etc,give it a good clean,and where it sits on the back of the monitor.But if it is starting to crack,its on it last legs.you can try sealant,there is a post on J+ in the repair section on arking caps from lukwells.

But remember discharge it first,nothing like giving yourself the shock of your life...

Myrddin

Mitchomagic wrote: »

Best thing thing to do is first remove it,it might be dirt etc,give it a good clean,and where it sits on the back of the monitor.But if it is starting to crack,its on it last legs.you can try sealant,there is a post on J+ in the repair section on arking caps from lukwells.

But remember discharge it first,nothing like giving yourself the shock of your life...

Cheers dude, I'll remove it tomorrow & have a good looksee. Now if there was ever a man who took a hit from a cab, it has to be Mitch...any experience with 50k volts??

purplec

The things is if it's arcing at the suction cup you could end up damaging the tube. So don't turn it on again.

If you need to change the suction cup I believe you have to change the whole hv lead and I'm fairly certain they are now hard to come by.

I think the chassis in these machines are hantarex polos try mo at videotroniks for a new serviced chassis.

Should be around £80 and try and repair the other chassis gives you some obsolescence breathing room

Good luck

Myrddin

purplec wrote: »

The things is if it's arcing at the suction cup you could end up damaging the tube. So don't turn it on again.

If you need to change the suction cup I believe you have to change the whole hv lead and I'm fairly certain they are now hard to come by.

I think the chassis in these machines are hantarex polos try mo at videotroniks for a new serviced chassis.

Should be around £80 and try and repair the other chassis gives you some obsolescence breathing room

Good luck

Hopefuly I'll find one, Mitch may even have a spare one of a dodgey monitor. There's no way in hell I'm replacing the chassis just for a lead...

purplec

10,000 volts maybe 50,000 shorting across the monitor throught your ground which is linked to the control panel, coin door and so on.

SAFETY FIRST money later

my 2 cents

Myrddin

purplec wrote: »

10,000 volts maybe 50,000 shorting across the monitor throught your ground which is linked to the control panel, coin door and so on.

SAFETY FIRST money later

my 2 cents

I'm advocating replacing the entire cable, as opposed to repairing the cap...how is that dangerous?