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Why Mushroom Fixings.

  • 02-03-2011 8:58pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 107 ✭✭


    Hi all. Just wondering why the hell do people use mushroom fixings when drylining if you are already using bonding compound to blockwork. Is this not enough. You apply dabs of compound to blockwork, then fix on your slab and then level it up. Then you see people drilling holes through the slab into the blockwork and hammer "mushroom fixings" in, totally putting the slab out of alignment. Its so pointless. A plasterer has to come along then and try to bead around windows with slab work thats just all over the place and ends up using bags and bags of bonding to try and straighten the walls. Bonding compound is really serious tacky stuff and solid when dry.The slab hasn't a notion of ever coming away from the wall if applied right. So why the f**k do people use these "yokes". In my opinion they serve no purpose not to mention the puncturing of the slab from being hammered too much. Is it just another stupid "regulation".


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    If its just a slab (not an insulated slab), there is no reason to use these fixing.
    On insulated slabs, they are needed IMO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 291 ✭✭cork2


    well to be honest i think the mushroom fixings are brilliant!! Very solid fix, quicker than dabbing and not half as messy.at times if i have a fairly strainght wall to begin with ill just use fixings and wont bother with dabs and if you know what your doing you dont burst the slab driving them!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 pmandcivileng


    The use of at least 4 metal mushroom fixings per board is recommended for fire safety. In the event of fire, the metal fixings would help hold the slab there longer than compound thus allowing the occupant more time to escape the building.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭tred


    The use of at least 4 metal mushroom fixings per board is recommended for fire safety. In the event of fire, the metal fixings would help hold the slab there longer than compound thus allowing the occupant more time to escape the building.

    Agreed, and actually I just used the mushrooms I didnt use any dab and slab. Walls were level straight as well though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭d o'c


    I'm about to tackle this soon.. walls are masonary, boards are normal composite, ie paper backed.

    The boards I'm using manufacturer states that minimum of 2 pins, centre of board, when the adhesive has cured.


    question about the dot and dab compound..

    some of these(all seem to be gypum based) are labeled as drywall adhesive, others drywall bonding compound. same difference??

    some are white powder, other the pinky colour.

    I see some manufacturer quote a few months shelf life, others don't.
    Are any of these better at coping with shrinkage, temperature changes, bonding strength etc?

    Pm please if you can't mention brands..


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,906 ✭✭✭✭mfceiling


    d o'c wrote: »
    I'm about to tackle this soon.. walls are masonary, boards are normal composite, ie paper backed.

    The boards I'm using manufacturer states that minimum of 2 pins, centre of board, when the adhesive has cured.


    question about the dot and dab compound..

    some of these(all seem to be gypum based) are labeled as drywall adhesive, others drywall bonding compound. same difference??

    some are white powder, other the pinky colour.

    I see some manufacturer quote a few months shelf life, others don't.
    Are any of these better at coping with shrinkage, temperature changes, bonding strength etc?

    Pm please if you can't mention brands..

    The stuff you need comes in a green bag....both major drywall producers have them in green bags so it's your choice.
    It should say on the bag that it is for sticking plasterboard to block walls.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    cork2 wrote: »
    well to be honest i think the mushroom fixings are brilliant!! Very solid fix, quicker than dabbing and not half as messy.at times if i have a fairly strainght wall to begin with ill just use fixings and wont bother with dabs and if you know what your doing you dont burst the slab driving them!

    NOT having a go at you cork2 but it is important that adhesive compound is applied to all 4 edges ( i.e. a continuous line following the back edges ) of every board to disrupt air movement behind the boards.

    The mushroom fixing are good positive mechanical fix I agree . But maybe a little ....

    lithgow_suspenders_72dpi.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,555 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Take that photo of yourself down immediately sinnerboy :D


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