Any Pistol experts out there (TM Hi-Cappa issue)

bullets

So I decided it was time to maybe start to learn a little a bit about whats Inside airsoft gear.

I was curious why Race guns were sooooooo expensive so I decided to buy a Training or Learning Gun and try and build a basic racegun by buying some aftermarket
upgrades.

(Learning as I go about the in's and outs of GBB pistols)

I ordered the wrong barrel as I forgot to order one that
takes a compensator, and my lovely blue cocking lever wont fit on the metal slide I bought! the 160% spring needed to be cut as it was too long and would not fit in with the recoil rod, and the various other small things would not fit correctly. I need to mount the carbon scope mount next by drilling and tapping 6 holes and there does not look to be a whole lot of clearance height wise
so I am praying I wont bollox it all up!
Other than that things were just dandy!

So I bought a TM-Hi Cappa 5.1 from airsofteire as it was a nice cheap price. After I stripped it down for the first time and put it back together again I noticed a problem.

Quite a lot of the time when I racked the slide and went to fire I needed to pull the trigger a 2-3 times before it would actually fire.

This happens with all the original stock parts! before I replaced anything with aftermarket parts.
So something changed because I stripped and reassembled things.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mngnIN_Qms4

Pulling the hammer back with the slide off and firing will always work fine, The issue only is seen when the
Sear nub?? and or disconnector?? nub (The two shiny bits sticking up where the slide presses on when racked)

ie I can replicate the problem with the slide off if I push these bits down after I pull the hammer back.
(as seen on below pic just before the hammer:)




Reading some of the Canadian airsoft forums which are great people tend to say an issue like this is caused by
either the Trigger Stirrup being bend or a leaf spring problem.

On mine the trigger stirrup looks fine, even though it was hell trying to get the new trigger installed with the small roll spring pin thing.

I tried different things like bending the prongs on the leaf spring and making sure they were sitting correctly etc. but nothing so far seems to work. I tried adjusting the trigger screw, lubing things up, putting pressure on the top of the trigger instead of the bottom in case it was catching, feeling the amount of travel in the trigger etc nothing seemed to help.



Sideview of the Leaf spring to show how the prongs are bent:




The Leaf spring appears to be sitting correctly
after reading guides from other webpages.




Anyone got any ideas or suggestions what I can try next ?


~B

swiftblade

Is the slide very loose on it?

bullets

swiftblade wrote: »

Is the slide very loose on it?

Hi m8,

The Stock ABS slide and the metal one fit quite nice and not
too much play on them (a little better than some of my other pistols) Shaking it near the camera makes it sound worse than it is. (I was actually surprised the shooters design slide went on ok without any trouble
apart from the cut in the slide for the slide locking lever that will need to be modified as the cut needs to be about a half mm deeper in order for the lever to engage upwards and allow the slide to lock on an empty mag.)

~B

swiftblade

It sounds as if the slide isn't resetting the trigger. But as you said it's not loose, so rules out what i thought it was.

Is there any movement from side to side on the slide? It's just i had the exact same problem on a pistol of mine and the culprit was a badly fitting slide

bullets

swiftblade wrote: »

It sounds as if the slide isn't resetting the trigger. But as you said it's not loose, so rules out what i thought it was.

Is there any movement from side to side on the slide? It's just i had the exact same problem on a pistol of mine and the culprit was a badly fitting slide

Pretty much normal if I compare it to all all my other pistols.
The issue is still present if I take the slide off completely
and just depress the nubs in front of the hammer after I manually cock it. (although the issue happens less when I do it this way)

I still need to learn about the sear and disconnector and how they work,
I've an ebook on Pistol GBB's bought
which I must try get onto my Ipad later to check out, needs some adobe software to authentic
my pc before it will let me transfer it which is a bloody pain.[EDIT book was crap]

~B

Stercus Accidit

I'm familiar with this.

The sear connector is not sliding down to engage the trigger arms and sear after a firing cycle as it should.

The way to fix it is to clean the part and lubricate it lightly, and the same for the channel it runs in.

Also, the leaf spring which pushes it down, you should lubricate and clean where they interact.

A good way to understand this is to reassemble without the grip safety in place and look at how the parts interact.


Bullets, what parts are stock and what parts are new, a new leaf spring could need reshaping or polishing on the sear disconnector/connector prong.

Stercus Accidit

This is the place where you need good pressure from the prong, and less friction.

If the trigger sits further back than the old one, it could contribute to the issue.

bullets

Stercus Accidit wrote: »

I'm familiar with this.

The sear connector is not sliding down to engage the trigger arms and sear after a firing cycle as it should.

The way to fix it is to clean the part and lubricate it lightly, and the same for the channel it runs in.

Also, the leaf spring which pushes it down, you should lubricate and clean where they interact.

A good way to understand this is to reassemble without the grip safety in place and look at how the parts interact.


Bullets, what parts are stock and what parts are new, a new leaf spring could need reshaping or polishing on the sear dis-connector/connector prong.

Sweeet thanks! things have improved.
had a feeling it had something to do with the 3rd/right most hand side prong but just could not see
anything wrong with it.

I bent the prong a little more so it put more pressure on pushing down and I took some silicone spray and sprayed
the bejayus out of it onto anything that moved and even anything that did not move, have been racking the slide for the last few mins now with out any issues! :)
[EDIT problem comes back after LOTS and LOTS of slide cycles]
I'll try some silicone grease tomorrow instead of the spray oil.

The leaf spring is stock, I could not find any online store
that sold replacements or sturdier/stiffer ones.

so far I've a replacement slide, 160% spring for the slide, 160% spring for the hammer, guarder outer barrel,I've high flow valves that I've not tried yet, everything else changes is to cosmetics.

I've read someplace about replacing the outer barrel with something different
some non-tilt barrel that's not supposed to wear the metal slide or lugs on the metal slide as
much but have yet to see one for sale on any online store.

~B

Stercus Accidit

TBH less oil is better, lube it then wipe it off. When it works consistently then it will work for longer.

Its better to have the parts clean and polished than goopy. It is a pain, but keep at it and you will find the sweet spot and it will work consistently. Avoid doing too much bending of the leaf spring, if you do bend it, try to spread the bend over the length of the arm to avoid creating a weak spot, which will put less pressure on the part and break eventually.