Cut hole a in the side of bath for bath taps??

paddy147

I asked the plumber to fit a mixer bath tap with shower head into my bath.I also asked the tiler to install a removable tiled access panel too.


As the pics show,neither happened.:(

I now want to change my bath tap over to a mixer tap with a shower head.

Whats the best way to cut a rectangular slot out of the side of the tiled bath panel,without making sh1t of the bath side and tiles?

Would it be plywood or plasterboard under the tiling?

Im hoping to keep the piece that I cut out and then seal it or drill/screw back in with some silicone sealer,so that it still looks nice.


Any ideas??


thanks.:)

martin46585

paddy147 wrote: »

I asked the plumber to fit a mixer bath tap with shower head into my bath.I also asked the tiler to install a removable tiled access panel too.


As the pics show,neither happened.:(

I now want to change my bath tap over to a mixer tap with a shower head.

Whats the best way to cut a rectangular slot out of the side of the tiled bath panel,without making sh1t of the bath side and tiles?

Would it be plywood or plasterboard under the tiling?

Im hoping to keep the piece that I cut out and then seal it or drill/screw back in with some silicone sealer,so that it still looks nice.


Any ideas??


thanks.:)

a 4" grinder with a diamond disc with dust extraction, will cut the grout without damage, though will not be great when you reach the plywood, so you will have to finish your corners with a jigsaw, not a 1000 piece one though paddy, then with a bit of care your cut out, (with the help of some strips of ply on the inside of the panel) can be screwed back into the original poisition, and re grouted, you'll will be able to access the waste/taps in future if need be.............

paddy147

martin46585 wrote: »

a 4" grinder with a diamond disc with dust extraction, will cut the grout without damage, though will not be great when you reach the plywood, so you will have to finish your corners with a jigsaw, not a 1000 piece one though paddy, then with a bit of care your cut out, (with the help of some strips of ply on the inside of the panel) can be screwed back into the original poisition, and re grouted, you'll will be able to access the waste/taps in future if need be.............

Ah fair play to you for that tip.:)


I have a 4 inch grinder here,jist have to go and buy a diamond disc for it.

Im a bit pi55ed off that the plumber and tiler didnt do it themselves originally,but I suppose you cant have everything you want sometimes.

What do you mean when you say "1000 piece"??


Would a Works or Bosch soni-craft cutting tool do the job better than a jig saw??


Thanks.:)

Billy Bunting

Those taps look awefully close tothe wall i'd be very carefully about going ahead if this is a DIY job, not going to be easy to get to those tap connectors. :cool:

paddy147

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Those taps look awefully close tothe wall i'd be very carefully about going ahead if this is a DIY job, not going to be easy to get to those tap connectors. :cool:

The 2 copper water pipes under the bath have the plastic stop valves on them,then theres the 2 braided steel flexi connections up to the bath tap.

There is around 2.5 inchs of a gap between the copper pipes and the wall itself,under the bath.

Buford T Justice

You'd want a steady hand with the grinder, so no boozin the night before

The diamond blade will graze the side of the tile very easily. I know from experience.

martin46585

paddy147 wrote: »

The 2 copper water pipes under the bath have the plastic stop valves on them,then theres the 2 braided steel flexi connections up to the bath tap.

There is around 2.5 inchs of a gap between the copper pipes and the wall itself,under the bath.

it looks tighter than it probably is first the wall is not tiled under the bath so you will gain 12/15mm then your taps are approx 50mm though your tales are only 22mm so another 28mm plus the distance between the tap and the wall 15/20mm so yes 2" plus, and if the are flexi hose they wont be very tight as overtighten only cuts the washers, cut your access hole big enough so you can loosen the back nuts, they probably will be quite tight, on the cutting tool paddy a jig saw will be quicker and easier, though either would do it, and if your stuck you will get a thousand piece one in smyths or toymaster:p............

paddy147

martin46585 wrote: »

it looks tighter than it probably is first the wall is not tiled under the bath so you will gain 12/15mm then your taps are approx 50mm though your tales are only 22mm so another 28mm plus the distance between the tap and the wall 15/20mm so yes 2" plus, and if the are flexi hose they wont be very tight as overtighten only cuts the washers, cut your access hole big enough so you can loosen the back nuts, they probably will be quite tight, on the cutting tool paddy a jig saw will be quicker and easier, though either would do it, and if your stuck you will get a thousand piece one in smyths or toymaster:p............

Thanks.:)

Joey the lips

Paddy you wont cut that without making sh1t of the tiles around it however as its mosaic sheeting it will be easy to repair and you wont even notice.

The problem with cutting holes in that is the stone is hard and small and will rattle like sh1t when a drill touches it.

Although it might seem expensives to repair as those sheets are about 20 euro each and you will need about 3 it is the easiest repair job and you will have no trble doing it. Dont forget to reseal your tiles.

to air on the side of caution....That bath filler is very close to the wall by the look of the picture make sure the new one is no bigger and as its a square pattern bsm there is a good chance it will be high pressure be careful of this as well as your divertor will not work.

Sparkpea

those are tiles of mosaic and not just mosaic aren't they? so once u find the joint I'd use a fein multitool to take the grout out, it would be much safer and less likely to chip a tile as the blades are thinner and you might also be able to go straight through the plywood with that.

It would be good to know what thickness of ply is on it some people would use 1" as its a heavy tiled panel but I would normally use 3/4" or 12mm (3/8?). Its doubtful it will be plasterboard.

To be honest you seem pretty organised and switched on, taking photos of painting, tiling, loft ladders etc. I'm surprised you don't already know if its ply and didn't keep a better eye on what they were doing so that they didn't make that mistake.

I also think taking that panel off and tap is a waste of time, its only newly done and a patch up job never looks 100%. I see theres a bath screen installed so is there a powershower or electric shower above? If so I would just use that for cleaning the bath out etc. I'm guessing thats what the shower mixer would be for but then on the other hand you're maybe going to use the shower mixer as your shower which is then understandable why you want to change the tap.

If it was me once I had it off I would trim the top a little too so that it doesn't have to go under the lip and I'd make a new frame from 2x1 or 2x2 to hold the removable panel and not ply, then drill the tiles while on the flat ground and set it in place and hang it with a few temp screws while you screw your mirror screws in to finish it nicely.

Remember to leave yourself plenty of room to work at the taps and in future the waste, might as well cut a 2ft trap rather than 1ft, or if you want it to look best afterwards I would cut it half way, then put mirror screws top and bottom left, top and bottom center (of complete panel) then for show I'd drill the tiles at the far right and put in 2 dummy mirror screws so it all looks symmetrical.

All the best

Edit: as others have said the taps are close to the tiles so make sure your get a bsm similar (lever style) because you probably wont be able to turn a cross headed tap

martin46585

cut your grout line, cut the plywood, and your in !! get yourself a 3/4 box spanner to undo th back nuts, job for a left handed person, replace your taps and replace the cover, mirror screws a fine but how will make good the cut edge without regrouting, no 8 screws thru the corner joints and regrout, hopefully you wont have to open again, take you time, can you do it? "yes WE can":D

paddy147

Sparkpea wrote: »

those are tiles of mosaic and not just mosaic aren't they? so once u find the joint I'd use a fein multitool to take the grout out, it would be much safer and less likely to chip a tile as the blades are thinner and you might also be able to go straight through the plywood with that.

It would be good to know what thickness of ply is on it some people would use 1" as its a heavy tiled panel but I would normally use 3/4" or 12mm (3/8?). Its doubtful it will be plasterboard.

To be honest you seem pretty organised and switched on, taking photos of painting, tiling, loft ladders etc. I'm surprised you don't already know if its ply and didn't keep a better eye on what they were doing so that they didn't make that mistake.

I also think taking that panel off and tap is a waste of time, its only newly done and a patch up job never looks 100%. I see theres a bath screen installed so is there a powershower or electric shower above? If so I would just use that for cleaning the bath out etc. I'm guessing thats what the shower mixer would be for but then on the other hand you're maybe going to use the shower mixer as your shower which is then understandable why you want to change the tap.

If it was me once I had it off I would trim the top a little too so that it doesn't have to go under the lip and I'd make a new frame from 2x1 or 2x2 to hold the removable panel and not ply, then drill the tiles while on the flat ground and set it in place and hang it with a few temp screws while you screw your mirror screws in to finish it nicely.

Remember to leave yourself plenty of room to work at the taps and in future the waste, might as well cut a 2ft trap rather than 1ft, or if you want it to look best afterwards I would cut it half way, then put mirror screws top and bottom left, top and bottom center (of complete panel) then for show I'd drill the tiles at the far right and put in 2 dummy mirror screws so it all looks symmetrical.

All the best

Edit: as others have said the taps are close to the tiles so make sure your get a bsm similar (lever style) because you probably wont be able to turn a cross headed tap

Thanks,I took pics of all post every part of the original house refurb and the extension build,from digging and demolition stages,to foundations,to blockwork,to steelwork,to plastering to painting,wiring and plumbing,floorng,garage building.

But the 1 day I wasnt there,was the day in which the plumber and tiler decided to fit the shower/bath and sink taps in the bathrooom and ensuite,and then the tiler tiled in the bath.

The only pics that I dont have.:(


Theres a Triton T90XR shower above,and theres the folding shower door too.

I really wanted the mixer/shower head taps with regards my young daughter and bath time and washing hair,as shes not a fan of getting under a power shower,she prefers her full bath and sloshing about in it.

You know what kids are like,they all are the same with regards things like this.

paddy147

Sparkpea wrote: »

those are tiles of mosaic and not just mosaic aren't they?



Edit: as others have said the taps are close to the tiles so make sure your get a bsm similar (lever style) because you probably wont be able to turn a cross headed tap

Yep,tiles of moasic,cost alot more than I originaly thought,when I eventually saw the tilers breakdown and costs.


Oh and the mixer/show head tap that I want to install is the exact same as the 1 in the pic,just that it has a metal hose and shower head made into it.:)