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[ps2] broken lid microswitch

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  • 15-02-2011 8:52am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5


    I have damaged my slim PS2 scph77003cb, I tried using magic keys no solder modchip, but could'nt get the 3rd tool (tray closed switch tool
    ) to sit correctly, so tried to superglue it it permanently down. Into the bargain the switch now no longer functions at all so the console thinks the drive is constantly open.
    Can the microswitch be replaced/bypassed with solder, or should I scrap the console at this point given the cost of a repair vs replacement?
    Does anyone actually know enough about how a modchip functions to be able to tell me if that would do the same as bypassing the lid sensors? Or does it require the circuitry to be intact?
    Any help would be invaluable ;)


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Can you post a hi-res picture of the board with the switch that's causing the issue, lid switches can be bypassed handily enough though obviously should never be used for the craic to see a laser in action :) I don't have a Slim PS2 schematic or install instructions for that modchip to hand so I can't offer detailed advice, it should still be relatively straightforward though.

    The main concern is the type of switch, is it a cutoff switch that cuts voltage when not engaged (one trace in, once trace out) or is it the type with one in, two out and depending on the switch position it'll pass through a voltage on a different line?

    The first type can be removed and replace with a solder line, the second one will require investigation with a multimeter to see which trace is being fed by the faulty switch (the tray-open line) and then you can remove it and solder to the other trace.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 kimeta


    I'll have to get the switch off to examine it, but without removing a functioning one I can't provide any tests on the switch's actions itself.
    There appear to be 4 points of contact soldering it to the board, so I assume it's the first type.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 kimeta


    I had to slightly bend the part of the metal casing adjacent to the top right of the DVD frame for access, but managed to solder in bits of LV cable onto the points where I removed the microswitch, and then just twisted them together. You only need three points in contact for the switch to work, but it works! ;)

    How pleased was I at not having to bin it before really using it!

    Am still a bit miffed that my Swap Magic coder 3.8 still does'nt work - the laser lens just repeatedly taps against the disc's innermost track, and the spindle never rises to full speed, so either the software does'nt work or I am not doing something correct in burning backups


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    kimeta wrote: »
    or I am not doing something correct in burning backups

    Does every thread here ultimately end in people discussing backup problems?? While that's not your fault, we really can't advise you on backup creation methods/techniques.

    Glad you saved the console though, well done! :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 wicherheist


    I'm sincerely profoundly sorry for reviving such an old post, but I'm having the EXACT same problem, and I'm in dire straits right now. I don't have access to soldering equipment, but is there any other way to fix the problem? I have a picture of the switch in its current state, if that helps.
    IMAG0325.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5 kimeta


    I actually had a very similar problem, and broke the microswitch because the crappy magic keys did'nt work. Eventually after a while the actual microswitch got melted when trying to use superglue so I had to break it off.
    I guess you'd need access to soldering equipment to short out the 4 terminals which is what I did (using just strands of ELV cable and crude assed soldering skills), and I was delighted to have resurrected the previously 'dead' PS2, but even if you manage to get this to work, bypassing the switches causes the CD motor to PERMANENTLY engage and it will start to screw up when you least want it (about 50 hours into a US copy of FF XI in my case).
    I never installed a dedicated BIOS chip, but I have heard the results have similar consequences.
    Given the cost of replacing the laser unit against the lifespan of your console is what you should decide. You can boot stuff from USB but any video scenes will probably look ugly as hell if you can see them at all.
    I personally the cheap modding solution as a way of playing Mushi Hime Sama without having to fork out over 100GBP for a rare Japanese import danmaku title.
    Unless your PS2 is disposable I can't recommend modding it. They are generally pretty robust until you start messing about with the laser mechanisms, but then they are cheap as chips now, and I guess you can't get WORSE at modding with pratice.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 wicherheist


    So I basically just broke my Playstation 2 for good? Would you recommend I just buy a new one? I mean, I'd love to keep the one I've had for like ten years, but if fixing it isn't worth the trouble, then I might as well buy another.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    So I basically just broke my Playstation 2 for good? Would you recommend I just buy a new one? I mean, I'd love to keep the one I've had for like ten years, but if fixing it isn't worth the trouble, then I might as well buy another.

    Is yours an older model or the new slimmer one?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 wicherheist


    EnterNow wrote: »

    Is yours an older model or the new slimmer one?

    It's a slim, but it's at least eight years old, so certainly not very new.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 kimeta


    the microswitch will work if you just short out all four points. Personally I used the back of the board, as there was a bit more space to work in. Soldering iron is probably cheaper than new PS2 so what have you got to lose? Official discs will work better than homebrew on Swapmagic, but still the machine will curl up and die eventually, so if you only want to play official titles and no imports or HB, you may be better off just replacing the PS2.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5 wicherheist


    kimeta wrote: »
    the microswitch will work if you just short out all four points. Personally I used the back of the board, as there was a bit more space to work in. Soldering iron is probably cheaper than new PS2 so what have you got to lose? Official discs will work better than homebrew on Swapmagic, but still the machine will curl up and die eventually, so if you only want to play official titles and no imports or HB, you may be better off just replacing the PS2.

    I think I might have one somewhere. I'll try to save the old one and just buy a new one, then use the bad one for burnt copies and the new for official. Then I wouldn't risk ruining the new PS2. Haha


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 wicherheist


    Again, sorry for bumping this thread. Which of the four points do I need to solder? I tried various combinations of two, three, and four points, but I think it's ruined for good. Is there anything I can do with the PS2 now like this, or should I just toss it? Even if it can only play backups off usb or something, anything is better than throwing it away.
    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    It's not ruined anyway, post the photo


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