Tiling Question??

raymurtagh

I need to raise half my kitchen floor to the same height as the old tiles because I am tiling the full kitchen floor soon. Can anyone recommend whether to use self levelling compound or plywood to bring up the level. It is about 10mm in total and the area is 15 x 10 feet.

Any help would be appreciated.

Buford T Justice

Whats on the floor below? Is it concrete? If so, I'd use self leveling compound.

Joey the lips

10mm is a long way to go with compound. I would use ply. Its cheaper quicker and less messier.

However you will need to prime the ply for tiling afterwords. Also you will have to screw the ply to the floor as nails might pop.

It will take a lot of screws.

Buford T Justice

Joey the lips wrote: »

10mm is a long way to go with compound. I would use ply. Its cheaper quicker and less messier.

However you will need to prime the ply for tiling afterwords. Also you will have to screw the ply to the floor as nails might pop.

It will take a lot of screws.

Yeah, but if its concrete its a lot of drilling, plugging and screwing. If its timber then no problem. 10mm is a lot I agree, but I thought the compound would be slightly easier if its concrete.

raymurtagh

Thanks lads for the speedy reply. It is actually a concrete floor below and is really about 8mm in total. Spoke to a few tilers who are reluctant to put porcelain tiles on ply and a few who dont mind either way. Problem is that if the ply swells or moves I will get cracked tile or worse? and of course the tiler will be long gone before that happens.

Sparkpea

Either way wood or concrete theres absolutely no reason why the tiler can't build 10mm up easily and securely with adhesive. I know thats what my tiler would be doing. I certainly wouldn't be putting ply down on concrete and self levelling is messy and would take a hell of alot of it to make up 10mm. If the tiler uses good strong adhesive like bal fast flex (i think it is?) the 2 part stuff.. mixed powder and liquid then everything will hold firm no problem.

Buford T Justice

Yeah, but a 10mm bed of adhesive over that area is a lot of compound, and flex is expensive.

Sparkpea

thats true but it is the best option in this case

raymurtagh

Thanks again lads but just using adhesive to bring it up to the level only gets it flush with the existing tile level and then you have the extra layer of adhesive to lay the layers of new tile. You could be talking 15mm in total of adhesive over the lower part of the floor if the tiler puts a 5mm layer on the existing tile. Now thats alot of adhesive!!!

I know you advise that the self levelling compound is messy but I think that I would rather fill 8-10mm with self levelling than all adhesive.

Would you agree??????:(

Sparkpea

:E guess I would go with self levelling then. Though in the same breath theres nothing wrong with using the plywood at all so long as its screwed down, I'd even put gripfill under it to avoid using so much screws but you'll never get it lifted.

I've even seen tilers tiling with old tiles first then the new tiles ontop to make up the space but again, self levelling probably your best option now.

FREDNISMO

There are several different types of levelling compound depending on the depth you want to level 3mm, 5mm, 10mm etc if it was me that was doing it I would use compound 10mm sounds like a lot for a bed of adhesive

raymurtagh

Lads, thanks again so much. Think at this stage I am looking towards the self levelling option alright. Can anyone recommend the best manufacturer of self levelling compound or where to buy it please. Thanks again.

patrick_10

Hi Lads

I am in a similar problem as Ray above- Half of Kitchen was wooden floored (now lifted ).

There is a difference of 60mm between two cement screed floors. I went to our local builder supplier, and I he recommended a Schonox FPL which is self levelling cement which you can mix yourself - Trouble is it would cost over 1K to cover my area so that is out.

But, the old wooden floor was fixed onto 50mm battons which are still in place.

So now looking into marine ply, or WPB board options. Then I came across something called Hardiebacker which is basically a waterproof plasterboard and is stronger than standard boards - Anyone any experience with it. I would go for 6mm option then a bit extra adhesive.

So leaving wooden battons in place, installing 6mm hardback would leave 4mm difference which I could take up with extra adhesive....

Any thoughts on this ? has anyone used Hardieback.

I can't post link but if you search Hardiebacker cement backerboard should find it OK.


Ray, If I was in your shoes, I would have gone for self levelling compound, would be great job to tile on afterwards.

agusta

6mm board will not do.Even if you used 3/4 chinese plywood,it still has to be crossed over with 6mm wbp ,marine or magnesium board. if not the tiles will crack on the joints of the board.Best job in my opinion would be to take out the battens and put in a sand and cement floor or a poured easyscreed floor

patrick_10

Thanks Augusta

The board I was looking at is a 6mm Hardiebacker, but I know what you are saying, I would need to put something else on top of battens first as 6mm of any sort of board would be sufficient to prevent cracking.

I have been considering taking out battens and putting in sand cement screed - fair bit of work but prob worth it. Looks like option I will be going for thanks!

Easy-screed options are very expensive for floor area (17 square meters @ 60mm) - I priced DIY 20kg bags.

agusta

Your welcome,The sand/cement floor would be the best job alright