Removing Rear Derailleur

Paul Kiernan

Can I remove an Ultegra 6700 Rear Derailleur without breaking the chain?

Thanks, Paul

petethedrummer

Yes, I've done it with a tiagra derailleur when I had no quick link.

Unscrew the jockey wheels then unscrew where the derailleur is bolted to the frame. Its a fiddly job to put back together.

doozerie

Yes, you should just have to remove one (possibly both) of the jockey wheels to "release" the chain from the jockey wheel cage. If you remove both jockey wheels, remember to restore the correct wheel to the correct top/bottom position on the cage again afterwards.

omri

I think that's possible if you take apart the deraiuller cage (see if that's possible in your model), then you'll be able to remove the pulleys and the chain will be out of the cage.

But I think breaking the chain is quicker and will make things easier than what I wrote above

Any reason why you don't want to break the chain ?


P.S.

This might be helpful - link

seamus

Technically yes.

Put a basin underneath the mech to catch any falling parts.

You'll need a tiny allen key (usually 2.5mm I think) to remove the jockey wheels and a 5mm or 6mm allen key to remove the mech from the frame.

Make a note of the chain line - take a picture if necessary. Put the bike into the smallest cog at the front and back then disconnect the gear cable and remove it from the mech. Unscrew the mech from the frame to remove any tension in the chain.

Then remove the lower jockey wheel. It has a number of loose parts, try not to let it fall apart, and make a note of how it all fits together.

When you remove the upper jockey wheel (though you might not have to), the rear mech plate will come with it and the mech is free from the bike. Again, try not to let all the pieces fall apart.

To put it back on again, do the above in the opposite order, using your notes and pictures.

Key things to watch out for are bits falling apart in your hand and forgetting how to put it back together, and be extra careful when putting it back together, it's very easy to damage the threads. If you damage the threads on the mech. plate, you'll need a new plate. If you damage the threads in the frame, you'll need to replace the hanger.

As omri says, it's a whole lot less hassle to break the chain.

Paul Kiernan

Thanks, guys. I hate breaking chains as I always feel they'll be weaker afterwards and I'll end up stranded up the mountains, shivering in a force 8 gale with no mobile coverage.

It does look rather fiddly, though. It's a shimano chain so presumably if I break it I just break both sides of any link, remove the whole link and replace it with an SRAM Powerlink?

omri

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

It does look rather fiddly, though. It's a shimano chain so presumably if I break it I just break both sides of any link, remove the whole link and replace it with an SRAM Powerlink?

I think that should work. I used power link once (don't remember what brand was it) and nothing bad happened. Now I'm not using it and still ok. But good tip for you would be to get small chain tool so that if your chain breaks you can fix it and continue the ride or just go home defeated

You can get small one, park tool makes nice small little thing that will fit in your saddle bag no problem.

petethedrummer

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

It does look rather fiddly, though. It's a shimano chain so presumably if I break it I just break both sides of any link, remove the whole link and replace it with an SRAM Powerlink?

Just switch to a SRAM chain altogether and get a packet of quick links.

kona

I snapped a powerlink before on a month old Sram Pc-971 chain , not in anyway heavy either.
Have no Idea what happend!

Paul Kiernan

petethedrummer wrote: »

Just switch to a SRAM chain altogether and get a packet of quick links.

You'd still need a chain tool, though, wouldn't you?

I'm actually thinking of buying one (or 3) of these Mavic chains that come with a quick link.

Deisetrek

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Thanks, guys. I hate breaking chains as I always feel they'll be weaker afterwards and I'll end up stranded up the mountains, shivering in a force 8 gale with no mobile coverage.

It does look rather fiddly, though. It's a shimano chain so presumably if I break it I just break both sides of any link, remove the whole link and replace it with an SRAM Powerlink?

I once attempted to fit a Sram powerlink connector to a Shimano 105 chain , without success I have to say. There was a slight difference in width , the 105 chain seemed to be slightly thicker . I didn't measure it accurately with a vernier btw so I can't say for sure .I would personally fit Sram powerlinks to only Sram chains .

Paul Kiernan

Deisetrek wrote: »

I once attempted to fit a Sram powerlink connector to a Shimano 105 chain , without success I have to say. There was a slight difference in width , the 105 chain seemed to be slightly thicker . I didn't measure it accurately with a vernier btw so I can't say for sure .I would personally fit Sram powerlinks to only Sram chains .

Interesting, I'm sure I've read that they fit, although SRAM don't specify it. It's not the sort of thing you want to be trying for the first time at the side of the road with frozen hands and hailstones gathering in your collar.

petethedrummer

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

You'd still need a chain tool, though, wouldn't you?

You would need chain tool if a regular link breaks and you want to remove it.

To remove a broken quick link you could do it by hand.

To remove an intact quick link you use pliers.

Paul Kiernan

petethedrummer wrote: »

To remove an intact quick link you use pliers.

Great, pliers. I'm going to need a bigger saddle bag!

bcmf

I never use the quick link but just stick a chain breaker in with my spare tubes/multi-tool. learned my lesson the hard way on the slopes of MT. Leinster.

seamus

SRAM power links do work on 105 chains (I've done it) and an intact power link can be removed by hand, but it's fiddly and a pliers helps immensely. It'll probably take twice as long when frostbite is starting to set it.

Best thing to do is bring a chain tool and spare powerlink with you on the ride, regardless of what type of chain you have. If the chain snaps, you can use the chain tool to remove the damaged link(s) and insert a powerlink to get you home. No, two powerlinks on a chain is not advised, but it'll easily be solid enough to get you home.

Shimano road chains require a special type of connector pin when putting the chain back together, so you can't reliably repair it on the side of mountain without one of these pins. And these pins too can break before you manage to insert them. A powerlink won't.

kenmc

there're different sized quicklinks according to the chain size - 8speed, 9 speed or 10speed

petethedrummer

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Great, pliers. I'm going to need a bigger saddle bag!

No, you won't need to remove a working quick link on the road. Only a broken one, which you can do by hand.

tomasrojo

seamus wrote: »

Shimano road chains require a special type of connector pin when putting the chain back together, so you can't reliably repair it on the side of mountain without one of these pins. And these pins too can break before you manage to insert them. A powerlink won't.

I've only used one of those pins once, to shorten a Shimano HG chain. It worked fine, and never broke thereafter. I did need a pliers to break off the excess, and then a file to smooth it off, since it left a little jagged protrusion.

seamus

tomasrojo wrote: »

I've only used one of those pins once, to shorten a Shimano HG chain. It worked fine, and never broke thereafter. I did need a pliers to break off the excess, and then a file to smooth it off, since it left a little jagged protrusion.

Yep, they're dead solid. Problem I had is that the guide part of the pin broke off before I had pressed it into the chain, making it useless. So I wouldn't be 100% confident that the same thing wouldn't happen in the cold and pissing rain, 70km from home. Like they usually do

DirkVoodoo

seamus wrote: »

Yep, they're dead solid. Problem I had is that the guide part of the pin broke off before I had pressed it into the chain, making it useless. So I wouldn't be 100% confident that the same thing wouldn't happen in the cold and pissing rain, 70km from home. Like they usually do

Happened me too, quite common. Nice of Shimano to supply just the one connecting pin too.

tomasrojo

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

Happened me too, quite common. Nice of Shimano to supply just the one connecting pin too.

You can buy bags of three and more though.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=52598