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Lock help.

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  • 19-01-2011 10:10am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭


    My friend pointed out to me that my lock was crap and not really worth using cause it could be pulled apart. I knew it wasn't great but I was hoping it would take some amount of time for someone to get it off my bike if it was being stolen.

    A plus is that at the moment I only lock my bike on campus and it's always in my house at night.

    It's one of these types though not as good as this:
    232389.jpg

    It's quite like to get something like this as I can wrap it round the frame when not in use, He recommeded a thick chain and a heavy duty padlock, would this be the best option? I haven't really got a big budget maybe 20-25.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    If you want some hope of keeping your bike, get a u-lock like this, and learn how to use it properly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Haleakala


    Eek... if your bike is worth more than twenty quid my advice is not to lock your bike in public with that elastic band.

    Buy a krptonite evo, they are relatively cheap online, very light for the security, and fix to your frame (or even in your pocket, if you are a hipster type).

    BTW, on-campus theft, in my experience, tends to be fairly endemic.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭Ricky91t


    Lumen wrote: »
    If you want some hope of keeping your bike, get a u-lock like this, and learn how to use it properly.

    The problem is, I've got a quick release front tyre, Which is handy for transporting the bike ( so I need it ) but is just something someone could easily take to pi$$ someone off.

    If I was to get that lock would it be able to secure the frame and front wheel to a bike locking post? That would really be the top end of my budget so I wouldn't be able to afford a good wire lock too, I'm not too concerned about the back tire as its usually in a place with a lot of people around and I'm sure someone would notice.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Ricky91t wrote: »
    The problem is, I've got a quick release front tyre, Which is handy for transporting the bike ( so I need it ) but is just something someone could easily take to pi$$ someone off.

    If I was to get that lock would it be able to secure the frame and front wheel to a bike locking post? That would really be the top end of my budget so I wouldn't be able to afford a good wire lock too, I'm not too concerned about the back tire as its usually in a place with a lot of people around and I'm sure someone would notice.

    Thanks

    For wheel security I use these.

    Lock the bike through the rear triangle like Sheldon.

    TBH, a bike is just a bunch of stealable parts. Even if you secure the wheels and frame, the saddle, seatpost, bars, brakes etc can all be removed with simple tools.

    I would probably use:

    - Mini lock through rear triangle
    - Security skewers for the wheels
    - Cable lock through the saddle rails, and through the front wheel if it's long enough.

    I've also experimented with seatpost locks but they're not that easy to fit, as you need parallel surfaces which don't exist on most clamps.

    If you can't afford locks, you definitely can't afford to have your bike stolen.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,604 ✭✭✭petethedrummer


    Ricky91t wrote: »
    I'm not too concerned about the back tire as its usually in a place with a lot of people around and I'm sure someone would notice.
    People would notice alright. But would anyone intervene? I doubt it.

    Read this: http://wiki.boards.ie/wiki/Locks_%26_Security


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭Ricky91t


    OK,

    Comments on this lock and cable then?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,599 ✭✭✭happytramp


    Ricky91t wrote: »
    OK,

    Comments on this lock and cable then?

    Thanks

    You literally beat me two it by 3 minutes! It's exactly what i was about recommend to you. I use the same combo, usually the lock to secure the frame and front wheel which is quick release. I only use the cable if I'm going to be leaving it anywhere for more than an hour or two. Had it for a year and nobody's nicked my bike yet (touch wood) so I'd say it's a good balance of price and security. It's 34 or 36 euro's in a few shops in town.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭dayshah


    Ricky91t wrote: »
    OK,

    Comments on this lock and cable then?

    Thanks
    That's a good combination. Get a separate pad lock for use with the cable (use any padlock). Personally I'm more of an Abus fan than kryptonite though.


    You might also consider one of these (an O-lock) as an addition. They are very user friendly. I'm a big fan of it as its so quick to lock and unlock. http://austinontwowheels.org/2008/08/06/review-axa-defender-rear-wheel-lock/

    The experts recommend you have 2 different types of lock, so its unlikely the thief will have the tools for both. After having a bike stole I now err on the side of acute paranoia. I use an Abus Granite D-Lock/U-Lock as my main security, normally putting it through the frame, the front wheel and the railings/bikestand. This secures the frame and front wheel. My o-lock stops people robbing my rear wheel, and then I usually put my cable lock through the rear wheel, the frame and the railings/bikestand. So I have 3 types of lock :)

    A cable lock can be cut through in about 2 seconds. I once saw thieves with a bolt cutter. They had it in a sack so you couldn't see it. The sack had a little whole in the end for the cutting part to stick out. They cut the lock without even taking the bolt cutters from the bag. It was scarily impressive how quickly they could steal the bike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,599 ✭✭✭happytramp


    dayshah wrote: »
    That's a good combination. Get a separate pad lock for use with the cable (use any padlock).

    Why? Don't you just thread it through the U-lock to secure the wheels etc?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,035 ✭✭✭✭-Chris-


    You already own a cable lock. Use all your money for a decent U lock.

    The U lock will keep your bike from being stolen, and I doubt anyone's going to go to the risk of cutting your cable lock just to nick a front wheel.

    Thieves will go for the easiest bike to steal (all other things being equal), your bike with two locks will be less nickable than the similar bike with one lock.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭dayshah


    happytramp wrote: »
    Why? Don't you just thread it through the U-lock to secure the wheels etc?

    That way they only have to deal with one lock (the D-lock). Once that is gone the cable is 100% useless.

    I know you can get through a D-Lock with a car jack. That wouldn't work on a padlock.

    At the very least the extra padlock would slow the thief down (so they would probably go for a different bike), and is minimal extra weight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,515 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    Ricky91t wrote: »
    OK,

    Comments on this lock and cable then?

    Thanks
    good choice i have the same cable but have just bought a better d lock but for your budget its perfect id say.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,746 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I use that Kryptolok and Kryptoflex combination, but combined with a Fahgettaboudit to lock the rear wheel the way Lumen mentioned. I like the Kryptolok/Kryptoflex as it allows you quite a bit of latitude in locking your bike, but the Kryptolok is not terribly secure on its own. I think it's quite easily bust open with a bottle jack, and someone here a few months ago claimed that his Kryptolok was picked.

    As -Chris- said, you already have a cable lock, so you could secure the front wheel with that, and lock your rear wheel using the Evolution Mini Lumen recommended and locking the way Lumen mentioned. Since that's about €40, I think retaining your current cable lock and buying the Evolution Mini is your best bet. I know it's a tiny bit outside your budget, but so is buying a new bike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,746 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    A cheap way of securing your saddle (somewhat) is to superglue or wax a front-hub ball bearing ( 3/16") into the hex socket (if your frame has a hex socket on the saddle post clamp). This isn't suitable for the wheels, since you actually need to take them off quite often, but you should only need to take the saddle off once a year at most.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,025 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    dayshah wrote: »
    I know you can get through a D-Lock with a car jack.

    Only if it's used incorrectly.


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