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Leisure battery

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  • 17-01-2011 4:54am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭


    Hi lads
    I want to get a battery installed into the camper van it's wired up buy I don't think there is a relay thing there just the wiring. What kind of battery do I need and were would the cheapest b to get one?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    You'll typically be looking for a battery with good deep cycle properties. A good AGM battery may last 10 years plus but the lifespan is only as good as your alternator and or charge controller, excessive charging and discharging will shorten the life considerably.

    Lots of people recommend elecsol and they are a good battery but if you don't have a proper charge controller probably not worth the investment. For the best price check out your local co-op and see what they have on the shelves my local connaught gold has agm batteries for very good prices.

    You can buy intelligent split charge relay very cheap these days:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPLIT-CHARGE-RELAY-30A-CHARGING-2nd-BATTERY-12V-/230554794861?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item35ae22fb6d

    But without a charge controller there nothing to stop you totally flattening your battery. You should be able to use a dirt cheap solar charge controller to drive a relay that will automatically disconnect the battery when its excessively discharged:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Big-Deal-Solar-Regulator-Charge-Controller-10A-12V-UK-/250750952882?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item3a61ebe5b2


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭blahblah06


    thanks paddy. so this charge controller works along side the battery and the split charger ye?

    what way do u hook them up


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    blahblah06 wrote: »
    thanks paddy. so this charge controller works along side the battery and the split charger ye?

    what way do u hook them up

    The old split charge solution was to just wire a relay to the D+ charging indicator from the alternator.

    The advantage of the smartcom over this setup is in the situation where your main battery has gone flat such as if you've left the lights on and your leisure battery is flat. The alternator life would be shortened.

    The smartcom split charge relay just connects in between the main battery and the leisure battery.

    My idea to use the solar charge controller is as follows - there are six connections two for the solar panel, two for the battery and two for the output. Just connect the battery to the battery connections and connect the output to the coil of a relay the n/o contacts of the relay would supply the rest of the van fridge, lights etc. If the leisure battery voltage drops to 11.1v the output will be disconnected and the relay will remove power from the rest of the van. You could use the n/c contacts on the relay to operate a warning buzzer. (The only disadvantage of this setup is that the relay would consume 2watts when it was on)

    Another advantage of this setup is that you could hardwire a cheap and nasty battery charger or 16V, 18V transformer etc. to the solar panel input on the solar charge controller to intelligently charge your battery when on hookup.

    For under 40 quid you'd have the features of a very expensive charge controller.

    [edit]There is in all lightlyhood a cheap chinese yoke withh all the above mentioned features but I haven't found it.[/edit]


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭blahblah06


    Is anyone around lusk that fancys Connecting these things up obviously I'll pay


  • Registered Users Posts: 48 merc camper


    I live in Churchtown, unfortunately I am las vegas at the moment working i will be back beginning of february.
    I am an engineer and can give u a hand with it and converted 2 campers and advised on electrical circuits for a few more.
    I am not running a business and will do it as a one off favour


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭blahblah06


    cheers mate but was hoping to b up n running by feb


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    http://www.marcleleisure.co.uk/Sund001/SplitCharge01.htm

    I might be around after the weekend, pm me a contact number & I'll see what I can do.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    blahblah06 wrote: »
    cheers mate but was hoping to b up n running by feb

    Just a simple relay or a switch will have you up and running you can add the fancy stuff later. The fancy stuff is just to get the best life out of your batteries and alternator.

    If you are using a starter battery instead of a sealed battery make sure to route a vent pipe out of the van incase of leaks or over charging. Also make sure its well tied down you don't want 30kg or lead and acid flying around your van!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,037 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    The best type of battery for the habitation side of any leisure vehicle, camper, caravan or boat is one which is 'designed for semi-traction applications'.
    If its specification is 'dual purpose' that is of it is described as being suitable for both leisure and starting, it will be a 'jack of all trades and master of none'
    Gell batteries are good for motorhomes and caravans if you don't want the acid spilling when you turn the vehicle upside down or drive on two wheels:D, otherwise don't waste your money.
    There is also a body of opinion that AGM and other 'exotic' type batteries are not really worth the extra cost.
    Below are links to two excellent batteries designed specifically for leisure use.

    http://www.europower.ie/Leisure.htm
    http://www.varta-automotive.com/index.php?id=235

    If it is intended that the battery is to work in conjunction with a charging system which will supply charging voltage in excess of 13.8 volts one which is of the flooded/wet type and not 'sealed' is best as the electrolyte can be topped up as required


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,037 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    blahblah06 wrote: »
    Hi lads
    I want to get a battery installed into the camper van it's wired up buy I don't think there is a relay thing there just the wiring. What kind of battery do I need and were would the cheapest b to get one?

    Here is another bit of reading material to point you in the right direction http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-2.htm


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    niloc1951 wrote: »
    Here is another bit of reading material to point you in the right direction http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-2.htm
    niloc1951 wrote: »
    Here is another bit of reading material to point you in the right direction http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-2.htm

    I agree on the most part and believe that the average boat, caravan and motorhome will not see any advantage in buying an expensive battery especially gel types which are a chocolate teapot.

    I have agm batteries because I got them for free if I had to buy one I'd be
    heading over to the co-op to get a tractor battery.

    I agree a typical free AGM battery does not have a good cycle life when deep discharged. Mine have a cycle life of 1200 at 30% dod and closer to 200 at 80% dod.

    However similarly sized deep cycle agm batteries will do 1200 cycles to 70-75% vs. 1500 cycles to 80% for flooded cells (exide) however they can accept a collossal charge current without any jiggery pokery. Exactly the opposite of what sterling says.

    AGM batteries can be damaged through connection to an innappropriate 'fast' charger which relies on elevated voltage. But AGM batteries have a much higher charge acceptance than flooded batteries you can charge them much faster without resorting to higher voltages and out of spec currents.

    Your fast charger can hike up the voltage and pile on the amps, pulse, do high frequency etc. etc. but the chemical reaction in a flooded battery is slow and stubborn so all you'll produce is lots of oxyhydrogen.

    The biggest problem with fast charging is the heat produced - heat wrecks all lead acid batteries, agm batterys have very low internal resistance and produce dramatically less heat than the flooded type much more suitable for fast charging.

    In terms of gassing all modern AGMs are recombinant so that 99% of the gas under normal conditions recombines into water.

    The low peukert exponent of an agm means that you can get significantly more of the rated capacity from an agm than a similarly sized flooded cell for moderate current draw.


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