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How to identify fake clubs

  • 09-01-2011 10:28pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12,035 ✭✭✭✭


    Specifically TaylorMade r7 Draw irons.

    I'm looking to buy a set second hand. Is there a range of serial numbers that I should trust or be wary of? Are there any giveaways I could spot?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    There was a sticky about fake clubs.......maybe one of the mods will point it out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,035 ✭✭✭✭-Chris-


    I had a read of that and am reading the articles. Nothing specific so far.

    I've also checked the Taylor Made website and they don't provide any information like this beyond the "if it's too good to be true, it probably is" advice.


    Edit: Here it is: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056001995


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    These guys may help if you can get some good pictures.


    If you have any queries about counterfeits – or if you’re unsure of the provenance of a club you have - feel free to email a jpeg of the item to pros@golfbidder.co.uk or pop into our showroom in Surrey and we’ll be more than happy to provide whatever help we can.


    http://www.golfbidder.co.uk/golf-advice/220/avoiding-counterfeit-golf-clubs.html


    Maybe get the serial numbers and contact Taylormade or tell the seller that because of the number of fakes that you will take them to a local professional and will want your money back if they are fake.......bit risky though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    Get a really good picture of the heads of the irons that are identical to the ones you intend to buy.

    For example:

    irns_r7_draw_gallery_large5.jpg

    Zoom-taylormade-r7-draw-irons-steel-4-sw-a.jpg


    Get a closeup of the "r7" lettering. Sometimes fakes will not be exactly the same. Look at the lettering on the hosel.

    Look at the weights.......look at the detail and compare.

    Look at the details in the cavity.

    Look at the numbers on the soles verses a real TM.

    If you really look hard you will see differences but they are not easy to spot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    Ok so let's start with the good club.......well I hope it's a good one.

    PIC 1

    Zoom-taylormade-r7-draw-irons-steel-4-sw-a.jpg

    I'm no expert but this one is probably a very good fake.....

    PIC 2

    Taylormade+R7+draw+irons.jpg



    Now one that I consider to be a definite fake.


    PIC 3

    Irons-006.jpg


    And another fake


    PIC 4

    fd4f1568b6a633286f7ab2bad1249221.jpg

    Can you spot why?

    Have a go before reading my next post. Remember I am just an average golfer and have never held these clubs.......it would probably be easier if you saw them back to back.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    Ok so why is Picture 2 a fake........a pretty good one?

    The balance weight looks pretty good.
    The finish looks a bit machined.......but I can't really tell.

    The painting of the r7 and the black around it doesn't look perfect. The r7 also looks too deeply punched. The left hand tip of the black around the r7 looks hand painted and wrong.

    Look at the silver cutout above the word draw. In the good club there are 6 "proud" curves/crescents......the first one on the bottom is very small; compare this with the "fake".

    Next look at the silver "cresents" to the right of the word Draw. There are 6 raised crescents on both clubs. But look at the 2nd one from the top. On the fake club the flat part at the right and bottom of this crescent is much longer. Also go up to the word Technology and notice that on the fake it is much closer to the white line - the white line looks further from the edge of the cavity in the fake.

    Lastly, look at the white line under the word Draw....the line that is close to the edge of the black background. On the good club this line is flat (along the top edge of the club) but on the fake this line is more of a curve.

    So in my opinion Picture 2 is a fake but a very good fake that would fool most people.

    I may be wrong and it is possible that Taylormade changed some details but I doubt it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    Picture 3 doesn't really have enough detail to analyse but the thing that jumps out at me is the weight (the "Balance weight"). On the good club this looks pretty flat but in the fake it looks curved and the details look wrong.

    However it is hard to tell with such a "poor" photo.

    Picture 4 is another fake I think.

    Look at the balance weight. It is poorly copied. In fact I doubt if it is removable.
    Look at the letter r in the r7 logo at the top of the photo. The upper horizontal stroke of the r is too wide. Go up to the "waist" above and right of the word Draw where the two white lines come close. On the fake these almost touch whereas on the good club there is more room.

    So it is usually possible if you get a good quality photo or better still a real club in your hand. You also have to really study the detail and I mean really study it.

    If this isn't the model of club that you are looking at then sorry but hopefully the concepts and things to look at for are useful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 643 ✭✭✭kagni


    stockdam wrote: »
    ... better still a real club in your hand. You also have to really study the detail and I mean really study it.

    Great posts there Stockdam - the above is the best advice if you want to be 100% sure.
    There are so many fakes out there now that it's a minefield buying 2nd hand clubs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    Oh one other thing I forgot was in Picture 3.

    Look at the stripe on the ferrule. On the good club it is thin whereas on the fake it is much fatter. Hence I believe that picture 3 is a fake.

    Hmmm.......maybe I should start a service just for analysing pictures of clubs to determine if they are fake or not. However the fakes are getting better and to be honest there is no technical reason why they can't be perfect copies - except the aim of the fake manufacturer is to pay as little as possible to get a fake that would fool most people. They want to reduce their costs and that usually means cutting corners somewhere.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,472 ✭✭✭stockdam


    kagni wrote: »
    Great posts there Stockdam - the above is the best advice if you want to be 100% sure.
    There are so many fakes out there now that it's a minefield buying 2nd hand clubs.

    That's true. You can notice differences in paint colour and the finish of the clubs.

    However you can't do this when buying online or off Ebay. I could probably spot most fakes if given good quality photos. But most online fake shops don't give good photos and even if they did they would probably use a photo of a genuine club.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,035 ✭✭✭✭-Chris-


    Cheers Stockdam, that's brilliant information!

    The pictures tell a thousand words, and simple things like the "r" being to orange-y or incorrect ferrules - it's the little details where they let themselves down.

    The weights are blindingly obvious (when it's done so clearly in front of you, like you've done), but pic 2's weight is very good so it's not a definite indicator.

    I feel much more confident about checking out the clubs now. Thanks!! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 41 PROV2


    -Chris- wrote: »
    Specifically TaylorMade r7 Draw irons.

    I'm looking to buy a set second hand. Is there a range of serial numbers that I should trust or be wary of? Are there any giveaways I could spot?
    The best way of avoiding costly fakes is to buy from a reputable Professional's shop. Online is very risky & you've no comeback. Heed the "If it's too good to be true, then it probably is" advice you've already been given.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,035 ✭✭✭✭-Chris-


    Fair comment if I had the budget to pay pro shop prices, but I don't so I'm purchasing second hand and am conscious of the "buyer beware" adage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,361 ✭✭✭f22


    Also get a copy of the serial numbers and just email the manufacturer, they're normally pretty quick in responding.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 586 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    f22 wrote: »
    Also get a copy of the serial numbers and just email the manufacturer, they're normally pretty quick in responding.

    quicker to just ring TM-Adidas on +44-1256-479797.
    Can do the same for Ping clubs +44 (0) 1427–619228 or callaway +44-20-8391 0111.

    they will typicallt tell you if the serial number matches the model, where they were first sold (Ping do this anyway). However as they will tell you, there are some exceptions, in that there may be some genuine clubs which serial numbers ae not registered with them, however for safety, if not registered with them, then just don't buy as too risky.
    A few other things you can consider doing is as follows:


    Also, check out who you're buying from. If on Ebay for example, check all recent feedback, to see if too much of the same club types, or if all diffreent clubs (obviously former more likely to be dealing fakes, less likely if latter as maybe a genuine shop outlet etc). Check if they have a bricks and mortor shop, as then better comeback.

    As soon as you get them, drop into a shop and compare to a genuine set, I've done this before for a rescue club, shop didn't mind..

    If buying on adverts.ie or similar, then why not meet at a golf shop, them both of you can walk in and ask someone in shop, this may scare off any dealers in fakes, if not catch out the cheeky ones!


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