Cables behind stud plasterboard wall

maxfresh

Hey guys whats the best way to run cables behind a studded plasterboard wall , left free ,clipped to wall , in oval conduit and what do you think are better steel back boxes screwed to concrete or drylining boxes,thanks in advance

Buford T Justice

Loose is fine, imo. Most people use metal back boxes because they're cheaper.

If you were fitting out a house, then there'd be a considerable saving on using metal boxes as opposed to dry lining boxes.

johnnyjb

Dry lining all the way for me, unless it was considerably cheaper to use steel boxes.

The threads in the "screw eyes" can round or break, dry lining is easier to relocate and doesnt need wooden grounds (or other types) to secure it to.

maxfresh

johnnyjb wrote: »

Dry lining all the way for me, unless it was considerably cheaper to use steel boxes.

The threads in the "screw eyes" can round or break, dry lining is easier to relocate and doesnt need wooden grounds (or other types) to secure it to.

the only thing is if the builder/carpenter is using the plaster board with the insulation stuck to the back is it not hard to get the wings of the dry lining box to grip.

Dotsie~tmp

Latest regs state no gap may be present between back box and plasterboard. This rules out most options bar dryliners which i highly reccommend. You can get one that nail to studs but its all mickey mouse stuff. "British General" brand have the nicest knockouts.

M cebee

i use a metal box where possible-flush with surface as per rules

local bond for any metal studwork


i'm not a big fan of dry-liners -each to his own:)

2011

+ 1

I prefer to use metal boxes too. Dry lining boxes when used for sockets can loosen or damage the plasterboard over time. Also cables can be pulled to final locations before slabs go on when steel boxes are used.

I normally use a 3.5 tap (with a screwdriver type handle) to ensure threads ate good.

maxfresh

2011 wrote: »

+ 1

I prefer to use metal boxes too. Dry lining boxes when used for sockets can loosen or damage the plasterboard over time. Also cables can be pulled to final locations before slabs go on when steel boxes are used.

I normally use a 3.5 tap (with a screwdriver type handle) to ensure threads ate good.

good idea use the tap on the threads and then put in the 3.5 screws so the dont get filled

JOHNPT

Can you explain what you mean by 3.5 tap on threads. Whats a 3.5 tap?

2011

Whats a 3.5 tap?

Here is a 3.5 tap

cast_iron

I've seen cases where the architect gave instruction to remove them as they make the switch/socket slightly proud of the plaster finish.

That, and Robbie's point of being able to put cables in final positions with mnetal boxes are the main reasons I'm not a huge fan of them. And the cost

Bruthal

Dry liners are great for fitting of sockets in finished/existing installations where suitable. New builds the steel box is definitely the best option.
Having the final position set is a big plus with the wiring into the box, it can make second fixing far easier not having cables still hidden as can be the case going for the dry lined option.