Dry Line Garden Shed

grungefreak1

Hi,

I want to dry line my 13ft x 13ft single leaf block shed (it's not cavity blocks). Somebody suggested I by a few lengths of Dry Wall. If I do this, do I also need to get aeroboard to put between the original wall and the dry wall? The reason I'm doing it is because I want to put some electrical equipment out there. Is this pointless?

Dan Jaman

You can buy plasterboard already lined with expanded polystyrene. It makes the job go twice as quick and yes, it can turn a cold damp shed into a pleasant place to be in.
I take it you'll be doing the ceiling with similar?

paddy147

grungefreak1 wrote: »

Hi,

I want to dry line my 13ft x 13ft single leaf block shed (it's not cavity blocks). Somebody suggested I by a few lengths of Dry Wall. If I do this, do I also need to get aeroboard to put between the original wall and the dry wall? The reason I'm doing it is because I want to put some electrical equipment out there. Is this pointless?

What you should do 1st is paint the outside and inside with Thompsons water seal,you dont actually need to line it with plasterboard,once the insides are dry and damp free than that will be fine.

Thats what i did and it worked a treat,I also used an IP Rated Fuseboard and steel sockets and couduit in my garage too.;)

grungefreak1

Thanks a lot guys. @Dan, yes i'll be doing it with the ceiling too.@paddy147,i'll have a look at this option first though.

GF

kop77

Hi, I too am interested in dry lining my garage made of 9" cavity blocks but I was thinking of 2x1 treated battons and 1/4" or 1/2" marine ply or mdf and leaving a space between the sheets and the wall, what you think?

Buford T Justice

kop77 wrote: »

Hi, I too am interested in dry lining my garage made of 9" cavity blocks but I was thinking of 2x1 treated battons and 1/4" or 1/2" marine ply or mdf and leaving a space between the sheets and the wall, what you think?

Marine ply is a ridiculous price. Why would you want to use that?

kop77

Fingers McGee wrote: »

Marine ply is a ridiculous price. Why would you want to use that?

Well thats why I'm here, looking for options and ideas. So marine ply would not be an option then. MDF or plywood or would there be another durable option?

Buford T Justice

kop77 wrote: »

Well thats why I'm here, looking for options and ideas. So marine ply would not be an option then. MDF or plywood or would there be another durable option?

I wouldn't use MDF. It doesn't take to moisture very well and has little strength when used as sheeting. Plywood or OSB would be the way to go alright. Are you looking to just line it, or do you want to use the shed as office space etc.....

kop77

Just to line it, will only be keeping power tools and an old car in there so nothing too fancy needed. Have a non drip roof and a sound floor so okay there. The walls are damp but not wet to touch if that makes any sense.

paddy147

kop77 wrote: »

Just to line it, will only be keeping power tools and an old car in there so nothing too fancy needed. Have a non drip roof and a sound floor so okay there. The walls are damp but not wet to touch if that makes any sense.

Well if the walls are damp then you need to paint the outside and inside with Thompsons water seal 1st,before you do anything.

Drylining a garage that is damp is basicly pointless and a waste of money,you fix the damp problem 1st,before you do any other thing.

Im in the process of painting my internal garage walls white now,just to add a bit of brightness

As Ive said above (see my pervious post) Ive treated both inside and outside with damp seal,that you just paint on.

Damp problems solved,now nice dry walls internally,and fitted out with metal sockets and conduit.

Job done.:)

kop77

Yeah, makes sense. I'll go down that road so, easier than drylining!

Almost forgot, how much per can of water seal?

paddy147

kop77 wrote: »

Yeah, makes sense. I'll go down that road so, easier than drylining!

Almost forgot, how much per can of water seal?

Around 25-30 euro or something like that for a large can of it.

sky6

I'm doing the same job right now and it's turning out brilliant. I agree with Paddy you need to sort the Damp out first. Then Batten the wall with 2 x1 battens at 16 inch centers.
Line the battens with Vapor barrier about 50 euro for a roll then fix 80mm Insulated plaster board about 30 to 35 Euro a sheet 8 x 4 with Mushroom fixings into the Battens. then Paint the Boards or Plaster them if you wish. A bloody great Job and don't forget to insulate the ceiling as most heat will be lost through it. My Garage is now more comfortable than the house but don't tell the wife.

yop

sky6 wrote: »

I'm doing the same job right now and it's turning out brilliant. I agree with Paddy you need to sort the Damp out first. Then Batten the wall with 2 x1 battens at 16 inch centers.
Line the battens with Vapor barrier about 50 euro for a roll then fix 80mm Insulated plaster board about 30 to 35 Euro a sheet 8 x 4 with Mushroom fixings into the Battens. then Paint the Boards or Plaster them if you wish. A bloody great Job and don't forget to insulate the ceiling as most heat will be lost through it. My Garage is now more comfortable than the house but don't tell the wife.

Good advice on the garage, I am putting in planning now for my own as I need it to be a garage and gym also so aiming to insulate it so that it needs very little heat. I will only be using a storage or oil heater to warm the space.

Never knew about that paint Paddy, fair play.

sky6

I would recommend it to anyone to Insulate their Garage properly.
I've had so many Tools ruined with rust due to the dampness and cold in the Winter months that I should have done it years ago. It certainly would have paid for itself by now.

brendankelly

I did up my daughters house a few years ago. We used metal instead of timber and then used the insulated boards. I would not advise timber where there is only one row of blocks.

sky6

Good point Brendan, Metal studs will be just as good if not better than Timber battens. You can get the Metal Studs from the Builder providers.

yop

brendankelly wrote: »

I did up my daughters house a few years ago. We used metal instead of timber and then used the insulated boards. I would not advise timber where there is only one row of blocks.

So what 1 line did they have? Was it 4" solid only or a 9" Cavity block? I would have presumed that a 4" solid cavity wall would be the best solution?

brendankelly

I will find out where they get the material and the cost tomorrow but it is not from every builder provider. You would probably be better off getting these guys to do the job (supply and Fit) and I will get a price for this also tomorrow. Can you send me email with the measurements etc.

brendankellywoodlawn@yahoo.ie

I do not understand your qoestion Yop

Flesh Gorden

Haven't tried it, but I reckon it could be useful in a single block shed



http://www.upkeepers.co.uk/Product/WIP

http://igoe.ie/Insulation/warmcoat-insulation-paint



I have used thomspsons water seal, works great but the fumes are bloody strong

paddy147

Flesh Gorden wrote: »

Haven't tried it, but I reckon it could be useful in a single block shed



http://www.upkeepers.co.uk/Product/WIP

http://igoe.ie/Insulation/warmcoat-insulation-paint

Thats the stuff that Woodies keep on trying to promote and plug.

At 70 odd euro a can of it,it had better be worth it.

You will use alot of cans of it if putting it on a block shed,as the blockwork will soak up serious amounts of paint.

You also need to apply 2 coats of it for it to work (if it does even work at all),so thats alot or paint and alot of money to spend out for painting a block shed.

Flesh Gorden

paddy147 wrote: »

You will use alot of cans of it if putting it on a block shed,as the blockwork will soak up serious amounts of paint.

Didn't even think of that

A near perfect surface would be needed alright to get the most out a 5l tin

paddy147

Flesh Gorden wrote: »

Didn't even think of that

A near perfect surface would be needed alright to get the most out a 5l tin

And even at that,you still need at least 2 coats of it on the wall.