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Using spurious parts for Opel Astra

  • 30-12-2010 10:03am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭


    I need to replace an O2 sensor on a 99 1.4 Petrol Opel Astra and the mechanic is saying that spurious replacements never really work and recommends using the Opel dealer. Is this true?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,412 ✭✭✭andyseadog


    i've never had any trouble using spurious oxy sensors, but thats not to say i suppose that they dont give trouble.

    the one thing i can think of is tha if you use a spurious one, you will have to cut and splice some wires and have to use some electrical knowledge (which he may not be confident with), whereas a main dealer item will just be plug and play.

    really (and im not downing the car) on a 99 astra i think spurious would be fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    andyseadog wrote: »
    i've never had any trouble using spurious oxy sensors, but thats not to say i suppose that they dont give trouble.

    the one thing i can think of is tha if you use a spurious one, you will have to cut and splice some wires and have to use some electrical knowledge (which he may not be confident with), whereas a main dealer item will just be plug and play.

    really (and im not downing the car) on a 99 astra i think spurious would be fine.

    I was thinking a spurious part would work the same as an Opel part (just a different manufacturer). He said 9 times out of 10 they dont work, because they dont heat up as much. Which didnt sound right, I wonder do they make a commission from buying from Opel?

    I was looking at getting one from Rathgar motor factors (€90 not sure who makes it), but I noticed gopartsdirect.ie have them (€65 from Topran). I just want thing to pass the NCT :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,412 ✭✭✭andyseadog


    you see its strange because he would actually in most circumstances make much less profit on the opel genuine part, than the spurious item.

    honestly i would just go spurious. oxy sensors are simple little items/ if you have a vice grip and 2-3 free minutes maximum you could change it yourself, its terribly simple.

    realistically i cant see the spurious one failing, and even if it does id say you could literally buy 3 before you pay for the opel genuine item


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    If you buy good quality spurious parts from reputable manufacturers then you won't have problems.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭shamwari


    Bosch do a direct replacement (with the correct connection plug on it) for most cars including the Astra. Bosch also made the original Astra O2 sensor so I reckon you will be getting like for like. On jap cars, I would be more inclined to fit genuine as they do weird things with current sensing that European manufacturers don't do.

    What I would never fit to a car is one of those so-called "universal" sensors. They are more trouble than they are worth.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    The replacement is made by NTK and has the correct electrical connection. Does anyone know if I replace it will the the error automatically clear or will it have to be cleared by one of those readers?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,412 ✭✭✭andyseadog


    after 'x' amounts of engine cycles without the problem re-occuring the code will erase itself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    andyseadog wrote: »
    after 'x' amounts of engine cycles without the problem re-occuring the code will erase itself.

    Grand thanks. Now I just hope its the front one thats gone (Didnt realise there are two.) :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    I was just doing a bit of reading on the net and they recommend replacing the Lamba sensor when a head gasket goes (Due to contamination). My head gasket whent about 4 weeks before I got the Lamba sensor warning. So I am guessing that was the cause of it...

    Also would anyone know should both sensors be replaced in this instance or would it normally be the front one?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭OldmanMondeo


    Your mechanic either had a few bad experiences with poor quality parts or does not know what he is talking about. Opel, like many other manufactures, purchase parts like oxygen sensors from many different suppliers. This reduces the chances of production being held up. The suppliers then re-badge them for themselves or others to be sold in the open market, thus the Block Exemption ruling from the EU...

    Get a good quality part, bosch, intermotor, meta & dora to name 3 and you will be fine.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    Just replaced there myself and the light is gone off. Hope that get me through the NCT added some dipetane also. Thanks for the help guys.

    If anyone else is doing this I found this guide helpful
    http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/technotes/fitting_guide.asp


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭shamwari


    irishguy wrote: »
    I was just doing a bit of reading on the net and they recommend replacing the Lamba sensor when a head gasket goes (Due to contamination). My head gasket whent about 4 weeks before I got the Lamba sensor warning. So I am guessing that was the cause of it...

    Also would anyone know should both sensors be replaced in this instance or would it normally be the front one?

    The antifreeze / coolant in your engine can contaminate the 02 sensor. As your sensor is over 10 years old, it's age or the head gasket failure (or both!) might have killed it.

    Are you sure your car has two sensors? Most of those early astra G's usually had one, and then gained a second (I think) from late 2000 on. The second sensor (where fitted) just monitors catalyst performance and doesn't control the running of the engine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    shamwari wrote: »
    The antifreeze / coolant in your engine can contaminate the 02 sensor. As your sensor is over 10 years old, it's age or the head gasket failure (or both!) might have killed it.

    Are you sure your car has two sensors? Most of those early astra G's usually had one, and then gained a second (I think) from late 2000 on. The second sensor (where fitted) just monitors catalyst performance and doesn't control the running of the engine.

    The guy in the motor factors said it did, but I cant seem to find any details about it anywhere. So it may not.

    Just after taking the car for a long test drive and I noticed that the fan (on the radiator) isnt coming on. Now this happened a couple of week ago also, but I put it down to it freezing up in the snow as it started up after a while. Now it doesnt seem to start at all, it may kick in when the car engine gets to 90c (which is what happened the last time). Any ideas what could be wrong? nothing seems to be blocking it.

    Is it time to get a new car yet :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭shamwari


    Your fan will probably only kick in when your engine reaches the required temperature. Was the Head gasket faulty when it last ran? If so, was the car overheating? :p

    If you have any concerns about the fan not running now then ask your mechanic to look at it for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭irishguy


    Normally when I park the car the fan comes on (After the car is running for a bit). The head gasket blew a few months ago and the fan has been working since. Its only the last week that I have noticed that the fan isnt working (Right after the battery and Lambda sensor died). I think ill have to go to a mechanic at this stage..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭shamwari


    Almost forgot: when you turn on the ignition, there should be a warning lamp for the cooling system which comes on and goes off shortly afterwards. The lamp looks like a radiator and fan, and if it isn't staying on, I think you are ok.

    The cooling system circuits are monitored to confirm they are ok, and it puts the warning lamp on and stores a fault code if it isn't

    There's also a seperate ECU for the fans, its located down low on the left front corner (in front of the wheel). The circuit is also protected by (I think) a pair of 5amp fuses.


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