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Crampon Recommendations

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  • 22-12-2010 4:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 589 ✭✭✭


    Hi,
    I'm looking for recommendations on crampons.
    I'm wearing Scarpa Mantas and I know that they (Scarpa) recommend the Grivel Air tech new matics. Are there any other C2 Crampons recommendations out there other than the grivels? Everyone seems to recommend Grivel but are there many people out there using Petzl or other makes of crampons??

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 995 ✭✭✭Mitch Buchannon


    loctite wrote: »
    Hi,
    I'm looking for recommendations on crampons.
    I'm wearing Scarpa Mantas and I know that they (Scarpa) recommend the Grivel Air tech new matics. Are there any other C2 Crampons recommendations out there other than the grivels? Everyone seems to recommend Grivel but are there many people out there using Petzl or other makes of crampons??

    Thanks in advance

    I dont use Black Diamond myself (a mate does) and I like them. Im not sure if he has the Sabertooth ( http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/crampons/sabretooth) or the Serac ( http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/crampons/serac )

    Another buddy uses the Petzl Vasak leverlock and swears by them ( http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/mountaineering-crampons/vasak )

    You could also look at the offerings from CAMP. They do some lovely stuff, although I have only played with their crampons, I have never used a set in anger. I would however avoid their Aluminum ones as they wont last pissing time in Irish or UK conditions.
    CAMP Stalker Semi-Auto ( http://www.camp-usa.com/products/crampons/stalker-40802.asp )
    CAMP C12 Semi-Auto (http://www.camp-usa.com/products/crampons/C12-semi-auto-31203.asp )

    Hopefully that gives you some options to look at.

    Later


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭SomeFool


    loctite wrote: »
    Hi,
    I'm looking for recommendations on crampons.
    I'm wearing Scarpa Mantas and I know that they (Scarpa) recommend the Grivel Air tech new matics. Are there any other C2 Crampons recommendations out there other than the grivels? Everyone seems to recommend Grivel but are there many people out there using Petzl or other makes of crampons??

    Thanks in advance

    Scarpa and Grivel have a special arrangement, if your boots are compatable the Grivel-Scarpa-Binding is really good but obviously you can't use the crampons with any other make of boot. The air-techs come in a GSB binding. If there's a little slot in the boot at the toes it's compatable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 995 ✭✭✭Mitch Buchannon


    SomeFool wrote: »
    Scarpa and Grivel have a special arrangement, if your boots are compatable the Grivel-Scarpa-Binding is really good but obviously you can't use the crampons with any other make of boot. The air-techs come in a GSB binding. If there's a little slot in the boot at the toes it's compatable.

    I wouldnt touch the GSB crampons for the Manta. My mate had the Manta GSB boot and the rubber compound the sole was made of was very very easily worn. He was breaking in his Mantas for the winter last year and within 3 ish hikes the sole had worn up close to the GSB slot on the toe of the boot. This would have had serious consequences on our winter trip to Scotland had he not noticed. My mate contacted the store he bought the boots from and got a new pair of Manta's without the GSB system. I have also read of heaps of stories online regarding that "binding" system on the Manta. So much so that Scarpa dont sell the Manta with the GSB system anymore. Some shops may just have old stock of them.

    That said, I have never heard any problems with the Scarpa Freeney GSB (B3 boot), so I guess it was just crap rubber on the sole of the Manta.

    Another thing about the GSB system is the little plug for GSB slot on the boot. If your winter climbing / mountaineering and you have the plugs in, it can be very difficult to get them out (esp . with cold hands) , If you leave the plugs out, you have the slot filling up with ice and snow which then freezes and makes it a pain in the ass to use the GSB crampons.

    I dont want to be a buzz kill, I do like the idea of the GSB sysyem. These are just little problems I have read and/or heard about them.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    There's a few recommendations and comments on the ice axe thread.

    Looking at crampons myself, but not experienced using them and really would only be for the odd trip up the Reeks at this time of the year, might be able to get a weekend in Scotland some time too, but no long hikes across the alps for days on end.

    Grivel seem to be the general recommendation, but anyone know what is the difference in using the G10, G12 and Air Techs? G10 seem to be the cheapest. Do they come with anti balling plates?

    And have Meindl Island Pro MFS. See a lot of sites refer to the compatability of the boots and crampons. Is that boot suitable for crampon use?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,328 ✭✭✭Sev


    This article may be of some use to you

    http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/getting_the_right_crampon

    Also browse the rest of the articles on his site there's plenty of practical information on making gear purchases and general technique for the aspiring winter climber.

    (check out psychovertical.com too, it is his old site, it has all the same articles as the site above, but sometimes has pictures that havn't been transferred over).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,328 ✭✭✭Sev


    And have Meindl Island Pro MFS. See a lot of sites refer to the compatability of the boots and crampons. Is that boot suitable for crampon use?

    With regards to crampons, they generally divide boots into four categories.

    B0 - Flexible sole, not very suitable for crampons.
    B1 - Hiking boot with reasonably rigid sole, will take strapon crampons.
    B2 - Semi-rigid winter boot, may be lightweight, good for hiking
    B3 - Fully rigid insulated ice climbing boot

    Crampons have a similar rating, from C1 to C3, which ranges from

    C1 - articulated, light weight, 10-point strapon, good for winter walking
    to
    C3 - heavy, rigid crampon with aggressive front pointing teeth for ice climbing. It would require a B2/B3 boot.

    And C2 is some kind of in between.

    You also need to consider the bindings. Bindings range from a fully strapon binding, that will fit any boot, usually found on C1 crampons to very specialised bindings which have heel clips and and a front wire bail that require a B2/B3 boot which has special toe and heel welts to fit it.

    Any given crampon brand and model may have a variety of binding systems to choose from, so you can choose the best system to suit your particular boot. For example, I have a pair of B3 nepal extremes with toe welts, but I chose to buy a pair of hybrid strap + heel clip C2 Black diamond sabertooths, because I find the front wire bail quite fiddly.

    Back to the original question. What category does your boot fit into and is it suitable for campon use? Being a technical hiking boot, it will have a reasonably rigid sole, my guess is that it would be a B1 boot. It appears to have no heel welt (or toe welt), so you will require a fully strapon binding system, the kind that fits all boots.

    Take a read of

    http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/getting_the_right_crampon


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,212 ✭✭✭Delta Kilo


    I have experience with 2 types of C2 Crampons that I use with a strap on system on a B2 boot (Still saving for the nepal extremes)

    I have used the Grivel G12 and the Petzl Charlet Vasak. You wont notice much difference with the spike location and you wont notice a great deal different in them when on Ice. However they do differ greatly in two areas, so it is down to your preference really as to which you would prefer.

    The Petzls have amuch better binding system than the Grivels and will literally fit properly onto any boot. I have seen people use them no problem with boots that shouldnt really have crampons on them, but they were fine, whereas with Grivels, they had tended to loosen or come off on the same boot.

    The Grivels have much better snow anti-balling plates than the Petzls. This can be quite important, but can easily be overcome by remembering to hit your boots every now and again with your axe. So it isnt a major thing.

    So if your worried about your boot not being able to take crampons, get the Petzls, or if your worried about slipping in snow, get the Grivels!

    Personally Id stick to a C2 crampon, its a great all rounder. You never know what you may get up to in the future so its not a bad idea having something that can do it all.

    Ive never heard anything good about the GSB binding system either. Its a clever idea but just has so many niggly problems that could have consequnces half way up a mountain!


  • Registered Users Posts: 589 ✭✭✭loctite


    Thanks for all recommendations, The Mantas I have are the newer version, so no GSB option.


  • Registered Users Posts: 172 ✭✭adagio


    I work in outdoor shop and have investigated GBS system as I'm in the market for a pair of G14's. I wouldn't recommend GBS.. not my bag baby... front Bail all the way!
    A.


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