Long term storage tips

Max_Damage

Due to unforeseen financial circumstances, the restoration of my Escort Mk3 is going to be put on hold for quite some time (at least a year anyway). In the mean time, I have the car stored in a well ventilated shed until I can afford to the restoration again. All I want to know is a few tips that may be helpful keeping rust at bay mainly. I have the arches Waxoyled, but the under-body hasn't been treated.

Should I put a tarpaulin cover over it, or will that just trap moisture? Stick a few packs of silica gel in the car?

Thanks.

I Was VB

Max_Damage wrote: »

Due to unforeseen financial circumstances, the restoration of my Escort Mk3 is going to be put on hold for quite some time (at least a year anyway). In the mean time, I have the car stored in a well ventilated shed until I can afford to the restoration again. All I want to know is a few tips that may be helpful keeping rust at bay mainly. I have the arches Waxoyled, but the under-body hasn't been treated.

Should I put a tarpaulin cover over it, or will that just trap moisture? Stick a few packs of silica gel in the car?

Thanks.

Drain the fuel tank, and put the car on blocks, and leave it in neutral.

Max_Damage

I Was VB wrote: »

Drain the fuel tank, and put the car on blocks, and leave it in neutral.

Good idea. The tyres on it are fairly new (previous owner must have bought a set before he sold it).

I reckon starting it every month or two wouldn't be a bad idea either.

carchaeologist

Disconnct the battery or put it on a battery trickle charger thing. Don't apply the handbrake and if you start it try and take it for a drive to get everything up to tempeture.

Gary ITR

Max_Damage wrote: »

I reckon starting it every month or two wouldn't be a bad idea either.

It actually would be unless you take it for a decent spin and bringing all the temps up, letting her idle for a bit would do more harm than good

JoeySully

The internet told me that you should

1. Wash the vehicle thoroughly to remove all contaminants
2. Dry the vehicle and note any damages. Repair any exposed scuffs/scratches
3. Vacuum the interior
4. Wax the bodywork to protect and feed the paintwork
5. Change the engine oil and filter to remove acidic contaminants in old oil
6. Check the strength of the Antifreeze to prevent freeze damage to the engine
7. Overinflate the tyres to 50psi to prevent 'flat spotting'
8. Apply tyre preserver to the sidewalls to nourish and prevent perishing
9. Apply a battery conditioner to maintain the battery condition
10. Apply a dust cover to protect the bodywork
11. Wind the windows down by 25mm to allow air to circulate


These I think are all good things to do. The interior will get mouldy very fast if its not clean and dry.

Aldi/Lidl sell those bags of silca. I put 2 of them in my car over the winter when its in the shed and they really soak up the moisture.

I think if its in a shed then then a bed sheet or 2 (double duvet torn open) will cover the car and leave it breathe.

Would be no harm to push it out in the sun for the day when the warm summer weather come back.

Max_Damage

About the silica gel. Baking soda also works apparently (so it said on a few different forums).

OneCheque

Max_Damage wrote: »

About the silica gel. Baking soda also works apparently (so it said on a few different forums).

I heard the washing powder is also good. It leaves a pleasant smell too (unless you choose cheap tesco one);)

Gary ITR

Max_Damage wrote: »

About the silica gel. Baking soda also works apparently (so it said on a few different forums).

Aldi/Lidl are doing a cheap dehumidifier jobby. It's a big bag of silica gel in a baisian type thing that can be drained. They work really well

Kevin_Herron

Certain American car manuals suggested all of the above after a drive of 50 miles and park the car in the spot you wish to store it.

Then, with the car at 2000rpm take the air cleaner off and pour fresh engine oil gently down the carburetor, after pouring one pint into the carb quickly pour enough in to stall the engine!

The manual from my Rolls Royce says to drain the fuel tank, start the car and let it run out of petrol and then fill with 9 litres of paraffin, then turn on the ignition and let it fill the fuel lines and carbs!

unkel

Lads, does anyone know why you should drain the fuel tank?

Ardennes1944

unkel wrote: »

Lads, does anyone know why you should drain the fuel tank?

the petrol goes bad after a certain period

unkel

unkel wrote: »

Lads, does anyone know why you should drain the fuel tank?

Wouldn't reckon it's required, actually I reckon having petrol in the tank would do more good than harm. If it does lose it's combustableness after a few years (certainly won't after a year) it can be drained out then if need be.

unkel

RoverJames wrote: »

If it does lose it's combustableness after a few years (certainly won't after a year)

Yeah I've seen people posting that the octane rating drops several points a week (so technically from just under 100 to zero in a year I suppose ), but that's obviously bullsh!t as my 928 still starts and runs fine with petrol that's well over a year old!

Max_Damage

Well, I had petrol that was 3 years old in my Micra and it worked fine when I ran the car for the first time since 2007 back in May.

Seweryn

RoverJames wrote: »

Wouldn't reckon it's required, actually I reckon having petrol in the tank would do more good than harm. If it does lose it's combustableness after a few years (certainly won't after a year) it can be drained out then if need be.

Agree... I would fill the tank and leave it full during the storage. The other reason is that you would get moisture condensation inside the empty tank during cold nights and the tank will start rusting away from inside .

Other things... Make sure you hover all carpets properly and do not leave any sand or soil, as this will catch moisture. Get an oiled rag and block the exhaust pipe with it and do the same with the air intake pipe - this will prevent the damp air going into the exhaust system and into the engine.

galwaytt

unkel wrote: »

Yeah I've seen people posting that the octane rating drops several points a week (so technically from just under 100 to zero in a year I suppose ), but that's obviously bullsh!t as my 928 still starts and runs fine with petrol that's well over a year old!

Max_Damage wrote: »

Well, I had petrol that was 3 years old in my Micra and it worked fine when I ran the car for the first time since 2007 back in May.

..it's not an octane issue: it's whatever additive's they have in the juice these days (esp since unleaded became the norm), that can fall out of solution. It's a much bigger problem in motorbikes, where a lot are gravity fed, and the solution block fuel outlet's and carb float bowls. Car's aren't as 'sensitive', in the main.........

Seweryn wrote: »

Agree... I would fill the tank and leave it full during the storage. The other reason is that you would get moisture condensation inside the empty tank during cold nights and the tank will start rusting away from inside .

Other things... Make sure you hover all carpets properly and do not leave any sand or soil, as this will catch moisture. Get an oiled rag and block the exhaust pipe with it and do the same with the air intake pipe - this will prevent the damp air going into the exhaust system and into the engine.

....leaving the tank full may cause the issue's, above. And besides, you'll put, what, €55 worth of juice in it, and it may go 'off'. So making it useless. Money down the drain. And, it may still condensate if there's fuel within, and it's cold, but warm outside, and vice-versa, depending on the time of year.......... There's also the fact that an amount of it will evaporate, anyway.

My dad is a bit extreme. For a real long-termer, he drains the fuel tank, takes it out, and 'swishes' a small amount of diesel around in it - coats the inside with a film, and it'll never evaporate.

My sis-in-law's 97 Corolla XLi seems to be very sensitive to 'old' petrol. More than once (due to sporadic use), I've had to put fresh stuff in it to get it to start. Must run very lean or something.

Randyleprechaun

unkel wrote: »

Lads, does anyone know why you should drain the fuel tank?

Helps to stop condensation on and around the fuel tank also, i think