Advice on Wooden Windows

BMD

Hi,

I am in the middle of a new build and I need to make a decision on wooden windows. I definitely want wood as I don't like the look of PVC or Aluclad.

I have quotes from a number of suppliers for both double and triple glazed. These include the following;

High End: <snip>,
Middle Range: <snip>
Low End: <snip>

I'm not convinced about <snip> so I have ruled them out but the cost difference between <snip> and those at the high end is too big to ignore, given the current economic situation.

Has anyone advice on who I should or shouldn't go with.

Also, some of these companies guarantees are dependent on having the outside of the windows painted (not <snip>). I want to maintain the wood look outside.

Finally, is there any point in going for a triple glazed window (whole u value of 1.1) as opposed to a double glazed window (whole u value of 1.2)?

Any help would be appreciated.

braftery

Hi there,

First off I will state that I have a vested interest as i am in the window business, but i try very had to give impartial advice in the forums.

My advice to you is simple;

Whatever your budget is, buy the best quality window you can afford within your budget.

What I mean by that is this; a 1 mtr sq window can cost as little as €100 euro and as much as €1000 euro. Despite what people might think, the price difference is not made up of 900% more profit for the company selling the more expensive window.

Everybody accepts that all cars have four wheels and and engine, but also accept that a Mercedes will cost more than a Lada. You all understand that part of that price difference is in the brand name and part is in the build quality of the finished product. If you didnt everybody would be driving Lada's !! My apologies if I offend those driving Lada's.

The same build quality issues are true of windows. In short you get what you pay for.

Get prices from different companies and for different product types (uPVC, timber, aluclad).

Select all of the quotes that fall within or close to your budget range and start to look at the products. I mean really look at the product ... the components, the finish, the build quality, the installation, etc, and not just the price.

Choose the best value product within your price range ... the best performing, the best manufactured, the best installed, etc

Remember this is not just a purchase, this is an investment for the lifetime of your building.

Cheaper is not always Good Value ..
but Good Value is always saves you money.

Poor Uncle Tom

The following is taken from the forum charter:

3.0 Naming of companies , bodies , individuals , products or services

3.(a) With the exception large, national or multi-national businesses is who really don’t need the free advertising , posts naming specific companies/traders and/or their products are discouraged and may be deleted.

3.(b) Any content which appears to either exalt or to condemn any specific companies/traders will be deleted.

3.(c) Moderators, at their discretion, may allow posts that contain links to a business/company/product if;

(i) the mods are reasonably satisfied that the poster has no direct or indirect affiliation to the business, or has no axe to grind with that business and/or

(ii) posting the link/details will be beneficial to the forum regulars and visitors.

3.(d) If in doubt about any of the above please send a Private Message to one of the forum moderators before posting.

You have named 8 companies above out of possibly a hundred around the country (there are 7 companies close to me capable of producing what you need). I accept that you are not needlessly promoting those companies, but because you have asked the following:

Has anyone advice on who I should or shouldn't go with.

You have left the door open to breach Section 3(b) above.

That is the reason I have removed the company names from your post and I would ask anyone with a recommendation for a company, or a recommendation of who to stay away from, to PM you directly.

braftery

The short answer is .... Yes.

If you can afford it there is always a benefit in putting 3G into your windows.

The approx increase in price between 2G and 3G should be in the region of 5% on the cost of the items in any quote.

If you think you can gain a bigger overall building U-Value benefit by spending this money elsewhere then spend it there.

But please understand that the U-Value of a window that the sales man will quote you is not for your window, but for a standardised window (1480mm high x 1230mm wide) single sash opening.

The ultimate effective U-Value of your window will depend on the size, shape, function and design of your items.

You BER cert is one thing, your heating bill is another.

MicktheMan

braftery wrote: »

You BER cert is one thing, your heating bill is another.

So so true

BMD

Can I put up the original without asking on who I should go with or not?

I have seen all these companies previously referenced on boards.ie?

Poor Uncle Tom

BMD wrote: »

Can I put up the original without asking on who I should go with or not?

Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »

I would ask anyone with a recommendation for a company, or a recommendation of who to stay away from, to PM you directly.

So no, do not name companies on-thread.

braftery

Window Guarantees

The Guarantee from any window company is normally a rolling up of the guarantees offered by the various component manufacturers and a build quality assurance on the overall product.

1. Glass

The guarantee on glass is normally from the glass package manufacturer and only covers the integrity of package seals and argon filling (ie if the argon leaks out and the glass package fogs up inside). Glass cracking for any reason is not usually covered (in particular be aware that laminated safety glass can crack due to thermal shock and this is not usually covered). The guarantee extended from the glass manufacturer is usually 5 years from the date of manufacture.

2. Window Gear (Mechanisms)

Window mechanisms are normally tested based on a number of cycles (opening and closings) and this will be limited also by a time period clause.
ie: 5000 cycles and 3 to 5 years from date of manufacture.
Window mechanisms also need to be oiled and lubricated at least once a year and probably every 6 months in coastal areas (within 15km of the coast). Not oiling them will void the warranty.

3. Surface Finish

Surface finish is not covered by alot of window suppliers because enviornment has huge effect on the lifespan of the finishes and the paint or lacquer suppliers offer only guidelines and not any warranty. Some paint suppliers are now starting to offer guarantees provided the end user undertakes to apply a cream (rub on with a cloth) to the surface every 2 years. Others offer to warranty different elevations for different time periods.

4. Timber Quality & Overall Build quality

Timber is usually graded and window suppliers can buy different grades at different costs. The better grades have less or not knots and are less lifely to warp or twist. The window supplier will usually put a guarantee that the window frame will perform it job for the guarantee period provided it is installed properly and the building is properaly ventilated at all times (in particular during construction). Swelling of timber due to excessive moisture content in a building after floor pouring and wet trades will void the guarantee.

5. Alumimium Cladding or Windows

The surface coating on this is usually guaranteed by the Aluminium supplier or the aluminium paintshop.

6. Door Lock sets

The guarantees on these will be passed on from the original lock manufacturer and will normally be 2-3 years from date of original manufacture.


Read carefully the guarantee on offer and understand what is covered, what is not and what you need to do in order to get the guarantee to work (ie photos of damage, written report, etc)

Despite what people think ...

There is no such thing as a maintainence free window ...

They all need to be serviced and if they are not they may stop functioning properly and will probably not be covered by any guarantee.