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Upright radiator wont bleed

  • 25-11-2010 6:11pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭


    Hi all
    We have a sealed system with gauge showing at zero.
    Heat is ok from rads, except 1 large upright which cant be bled, ie verry little air comes and is hot in about 4 of the 10 upright "fins"

    How do i re pressurise this system?
    If I get a plumber in will it cost much to do it?

    Thanks in advance for any help

    I have turned the knob beside pressure gauge but pressure did not change....:mad:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    buzzwell wrote: »
    Hi all
    We have a sealed system with gauge showing at zero.
    Heat is ok from rads, except 1 large upright which cant be bled, ie verry little air comes and is hot in about 4 of the 10 upright "fins"

    How do i re pressurise this system?
    If I get a plumber in will it cost much to do it?

    Thanks in advance for any help

    I have turned the knob beside pressure gauge but pressure did not change....:mad:
    If the guage is showing at 0 then there is either a leak or the guage is faulty. The rad that is upright sounds like there is not enough pressure or to push it through. To re-pressurise the system you should have to reconnect the mains to the filler valve and fill to about 1.5 bar and monitor it for leaks providing the filler valve guage is in sound working order. If you get a plumber in to fill the system should cost about 25-50 euro. If there is leaks then depends on work involved in finding and repairing it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    Thanks a mill for the reply and all is well again.
    It turned out that there is a valve connected near the gauge and a couple of turns of this got pressure back up just around 1.5 bar.

    Bled the upright then no prob,
    will check agin tomorrow for pressure

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    No problem. If it drops over night, there is a weap or leak somewhere. Check the obvious first like in the boiler house etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    will do, I think pressure dropped really low during summer when heating wasnt actually on, as the problem only became apparent when boiler was being used again heavily enough and its only tonight I really investigated it, what with the cold snap!

    Thanks for the advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Have you turned off the mains supply again after pressurizing the system?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    Have you turned off the mains supply again after pressurizing the system?
    Thanks
    Good Question, the thing I turned which got the pressure up was a plastic knob with + and - on it. Not sure if its an on-off valve? I remember my plumber saying I could adjust the pressure with it (hes's emigrated since!)
    Pressure is still the same today though, just shy of the indicator neele (red one?) and no air in upright rad or water leaks anywhere.

    That sound right?

    Whats the air valve on the canister for?
    Thanks again for the help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    buzzwell wrote: »
    Thanks
    Good Question, the thing I turned which got the pressure up was a plastic knob with + and - on it. Not sure if its an on-off valve? I remember my plumber saying I could adjust the pressure with it (hes's emigrated since!)
    Pressure is still the same today though, just shy of the indicator neele (red one?) and no air in upright rad or water leaks anywhere.

    That sound right?

    Whats the air valve on the canister for?
    Thanks again for the help.

    If the valve has the pressure set, its ok. The Big red tank is an expansion vessel for the system


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    If the valve has the pressure set, its ok. The Big red tank is an expansion vessel for the system

    Thanks
    and last question I hope- Is the air valve on the canister to let air pressure out if the needle rises too high, combined with a re adjustment of the grey knob?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    No the air valve on the vessel is to charge it to a specific pressure. ie. expansion vessel. You can check what pressure is in it with an ordinary pump and guage. It should be charged already by the plumber or from factory. I forget what psi they take. Must check the oul notes:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    kay 9 wrote: »
    No the air valve on the vessel is to charge it to a specific pressure. ie. expansion vessel. You can check what pressure is in it with an ordinary pump and guage. It should be charged already by the plumber or from factory. I forget what psi they take. Must check the oul notes:D

    Does the gauge near it not show that or have I got the wrong end of the stick altogether?:confused::confused:

    (really the last question!!)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    yer alright, maybe I have the wrong end of stick:D the air valve you are talking about is it on a unit like in this link? http://www.plumbingworld.co.uk/onlinestore/expansion_vessel.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    Yep, thats the offending article.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Ah ok, well no need to touch or adjust anything on that. It's just an expansion vessel;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 176 ✭✭buzzwell


    Grand so!


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