Fully Upgrading M4

The One Who Knocks

Hey guys,

i bought my M4 months ago and instead of getting a new one, have decided to upgrade it to its max .... well...everything


so...............what do i need to upgrade for higher performance?

i want higher rof, range, sturdiness etc.


thanks,

ps... if i dropped it off at MIA would they do it all for me?

Leftyflip

Expect this to be in much better detail later tonight.

Starting with the shell, if you want a high ROF - Get a decent shell, one that takes 7mm or 8mm bearings.

Bearings - Obviously get them to match the shell size (simple right?) Don't buy a cheap brand, I'm a fan of KA ones myself.

Gears - I run XYT gears in all my AEGs, ok they're not high speed gears, but they're feckin' great! Stay away from cheap brands, nobody likes stripped gears.

Shims - Shim the gearbox right, it cuts down on wear and noise. I always get two sets, a G&P copper shim set and Guarder steel shims. G&P sets have nice .1mm and .2mm shims, perfect for getting everything just right.

Piston - I'm a huge fan of the Element clear polycarbonate piston with the AOE mod done to it. I've found doing the AOE mod gets me 3rps more without needing to upgrade other internals.

Piston Head - I run Systema Duracon ones in my AEGs as they're about a fiver (well they were when I last got one) and very very reliable, one with bearings would be best.

Cylinder - Get a bore-up one, this will help you keep consistency in your set up, make sure to get one for the right lenght of barrel too. Element are fairly good

Cylinder head - Once again, get a bore-up one and when fitting it, a small layer of PTFE tape works wonders. I forget what brand I'm using atm.

Air Nozzle - As with the above two, get a bore-up one, for the same reasons.

Spring guide - A bearing spring guide is great, it'll help stop springs twisting and breaking (believe me, not fun at all), make sure it's compatible with the gearbox first!

Tappet Plate - get a reinforced one, not Systema, they're sh*ite, in my experience, had one snap in half after two, yes two rounds, since went back to an Element one.

Feck me - I'm starting to sound like an ad for Element!

Switch set - A large capacity one is ideal, with a high ROF, you'll be expecting large current loads and you want the wiring to be able to handle that. I usually make my own with somevery f*cking expensive cable (haven't a clue what the brand is, can't remember)

Motor - Get a Guarder M120 or if you're Thermo a TM Eg3000... The Guarder motor is very reliable and has a good bang for your buck. The TM Eg3000 is three times more expensive and much faster.

Spring - Guarder M90's are great, but you may need to cut a bit off to make it perfect, if you do, file the cut end.


Essay over.

The One Who Knocks

um.. thanks...but i dont have a clue what ur talking about lol

anyway im really happy with my actual shell, just wanna upgrade the internals only,


thanks,

Leftyflip

They're all the parts you can upgrade in a gearbox, they'll give you a better ROF, FPS and reliabilty, a new hop and TBB will improve range and accuracy!

Dread-Lock

Jamez735 wrote: »

um.. thanks...but i dont have a clue what ur talking about lol

anyway im really happy with my actual shell, just wanna upgrade the internals only,

If you don't have a clue what he's talking about then it might be an idea to do a bit of research before you try to attempt these upgrades. Either that or just get it done for you. A lot of airsoft shops do repairs/upgrades. Not surprisingly so does Lefty.

And by shell he meant the gearbox shell.

andy_g

Moved to Airsoft Questions

josh68

Jamez735 wrote: »

um.. thanks...but i dont have a clue what ur talking about lol

anyway im really happy with my actual shell, just wanna upgrade the internals only,


thanks,

i recon you shoud just ask LEFTYFLIP to upgrade it for you as he knows
whats involved: just a thaught

bigben121

Leftyflip wrote: »

Expect this to be in much better detail later tonight.

Starting with the shell, if you want a high ROF - Get a decent shell, one that takes 7mm or 8mm bearings.

Bearings - Obviously get them to match the shell size (simple right?) Don't buy a cheap brand, I'm a fan of KA ones myself.

Gears - I run XYT gears in all my AEGs, ok they're not high speed gears, but they're feckin' great! Stay away from cheap brands, nobody likes stripped gears.

Shims - Shim the gearbox right, it cuts down on wear and noise. I always get two sets, a G&P copper shim set and Guarder steel shims. G&P sets have nice .1mm and .2mm shims, perfect for getting everything just right.

Piston - I'm a huge fan of the Element clear polycarbonate piston with the AOE mod done to it. I've found doing the AOE mod gets me 3rps more without needing to upgrade other internals.

Piston Head - I run Systema Duracon ones in my AEGs as they're about a fiver (well they were when I last got one) and very very reliable, one with bearings would be best.

Cylinder - Get a bore-up one, this will help you keep consistency in your set up, make sure to get one for the right lenght of barrel too. Element are fairly good

Cylinder head - Once again, get a bore-up one and when fitting it, a small layer of PTFE tape works wonders. I forget what brand I'm using atm.

Air Nozzle - As with the above two, get a bore-up one, for the same reasons.

Spring guide - A bearing spring guide is great, it'll help stop springs twisting and breaking (believe me, not fun at all), make sure it's compatible with the gearbox first!

Tappet Plate - get a reinforced one, not Systema, they're sh*ite, in my experience, had one snap in half after two, yes two rounds, since went back to an Element one.

Feck me - I'm starting to sound like an ad for Element!

Switch set - A large capacity one is ideal, with a high ROF, you'll be expecting large current loads and you want the wiring to be able to handle that. I usually make my own with somevery f*cking expensive cable (haven't a clue what the brand is, can't remember)

Motor - Get a Guarder M120 or if you're Thermo a TM Eg3000... The Guarder motor is very reliable and has a good bang for your buck. The TM Eg3000 is three times more expensive and much faster.

Spring - Guarder M90's are great, but you may need to cut a bit off to make it perfect, if you do, file the cut end.


Essay over.

so how much would that cost :eek:

Leftyflip

Depends on where you buy it, exchange rates, VAT, etc, but I'd say around €130, give or take. Not sure.

$kilkenny

is that all!:eek:
wow i was expecting alot more flip!!
i was actucally coming on to ask how much would that cost :rolleyes: