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Oil central heating emergency

  • 12-11-2010 7:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭


    Can anyone help? Heating system has packed in. Burner up the back of the garden is heating but it's not pumping any heat to the house. The last 2 times I've turned it in it's worked for 5 mins. Rads have started to heat up then they go cold again. I thought it was an airlock but when I webt out to bleed the burner it was red hot. The red button is gone off too.

    Burner is a gerkros gem top cleaner 60/95 if that helps. Can it be fixed or do I need a plumber


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,072 ✭✭✭pjmn


    Did you check oil level? (genuine question - I'm not trying to be smart).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 959 ✭✭✭kwalshe


    pjmn wrote: »
    Did you check oil level? (genuine question - I'm not trying to be smart).
    i dont think it would have gotten to the rad heating stage if they had none.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 blogger


    no expert but it sounds like your fuel pump . I had a similar prob recently,


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 302 ✭✭ntpm


    Rob113 wrote: »
    Can anyone help? Heating system has packed in. Burner up the back of the garden is heating but it's not pumping any heat to the house. The last 2 times I've turned it in it's worked for 5 mins. Rads have started to heat up then they go cold again. I thought it was an airlock but when I webt out to bleed the burner it was red hot. The red button is gone off too.

    Burner is a gerkros gem top cleaner 60/95 if that helps. Can it be fixed or do I need a plumber


    Sound like the water circulation pump may be air locked or sticking.
    Take a large flat screw driver. Undue the large flat slotted screw on front of the pump motor and vent any air ( carefully hot water may come out). Place screw driver into hole where you should feel if the shaft of the motor is turning. Sometimes it may just need manually spinning is its stuck.


    Red button on burner (reset switch) lights up is there is a fault. Usually with oil or burner combustion issues.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,072 ✭✭✭pjmn


    If they had 'none' I would agree - however if level is low and depending on height of tank v's boiler there may be insufficent pressure and/or oil to feed burner. Hence why I asked about 'oil level'.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 dfoy


    had sort of same prob turned out my water system was air locked not the pump above the pump there should be a bleed valve for the water system try this and see be careful hot water flies out of it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    Definitely not low oil level. Only put in €30 worth last night. I'd say there is definitely a lock somewhere though. Don't mean to sound stupid though but how would I go about trying to bleed it though.

    I know how to bleed it when you run out of oil and have just topped it up but is there a different valve for bleeding the pump?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    ntpm wrote: »
    Sound like the water circulation pump may be air locked or sticking.
    Take a large flat screw driver. Undue the large flat slotted screw on front of the pump motor and vent any air ( carefully hot water may come out). Place screw driver into hole where you should feel if the shaft of the motor is turning. Sometimes it may just need manually spinning is its stuck.


    Red button on burner (reset switch) lights up is there is a fault. Usually with oil or burner combustion issues.

    ntpm has explained here how to bleed the pump with a large flatscrew driver


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    Is that the one just above the oil valve that you bleed after topping up the tank. If it is I tried bleeding it. Opened it so far the screw came out completely and nothing. No air no water.

    Am I looking at the wrong thing. I haven't opened up the far side of the boiler yet


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    you are looking for something like this

    circulation-pump.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    Thanks sparkpea. Gobsh1te here was looking at completely the wrong thing. God only knows what that screw was that I took out and put back in again. I'll go back out and give it a go


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    Thanks everyone. Back working for now. Hopefully it keeps going. Damn tumble dryer died on me last week too so no way to dry clothes without it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 302 ✭✭ntpm


    Rob113 wrote: »
    Thanks everyone. Back working for now. Hopefully it keeps going. Damn tumble dryer died on me last week too so no way to dry clothes without it


    JUST FOR REFRENCE; WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM???

    RE: Tumble dryer:
    BAD LUCK COMES IN THREE...:eek: :):):):) HOPEFULLY NOT TO YOU!:):)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    ntpm wrote: »
    JUST FOR REFRENCE; WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM???

    RE: Tumble dryer:
    BAD LUCK COMES IN THREE...:eek: :):):):) HOPEFULLY NOT TO YOU!:):)

    guessing he found out from the pic what the pump was and bled it.

    amazing how much pictures help people sometimes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    True sparkpea I was looking in the wrong place. Thought I had it sorted. ****1n thing has stopped again though. Going back out again. Aaargh!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    while you're out there check the pump is actually going/vibrating. you can also unscrew that big screw out and poke a screwdriver inside it, if its working the spindal will be hitting the screw driver, if its not then try turning the spindal left and right repeatingly to try get it to start incase its sticking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    Right were back running again. I haven't a big enough screw driver to twist the large flat head screw on the pump, but there is a valve on top of the unit that you can twist by hand. That releases air, I let a lot (unbelievable amount) of air out of that until it started to spit boiling hot water, that seemed to get the pump working again. The rads upstairs are roasting. Downstairs starting to heat slowly. Hopefully that is the problem sorted. If not I'll go get a proper screwdriver tomorrow and try bleed the pump itself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 302 ✭✭ntpm


    Rob113 wrote: »
    Right were back running again. I haven't a big enough screw driver to twist the large flat head screw on the pump, but there is a valve on top of the unit that you can twist by hand. That releases air, I let a lot (unbelievable amount) of air out of that until it started to spit boiling hot water, that seemed to get the pump working again. The rads upstairs are roasting. Downstairs starting to heat slowly. Hopefully that is the problem sorted. If not I'll go get a proper screwdriver tomorrow and try bleed the pump itself.


    Valve you are turning is the pressure relief valve. Your boiler is heating up and switching off on its . It is then air locking probably from steam. releasing the PRV valves is allowing water to be relaeased and cool down then the boiler is switching on again.

    Definetly sounds like circulation issue, probably pump.
    If you don't have a large screw driver you can try a small coin and a pair of plyers to open the pump screw.


    But also make sure there is enough water in the system. (As you are releasing water).
    You should be ok if you have an open vented system ( small tank in attic).

    If you have a sealed system ( red expansion vessel) with a pressure gauge you may need to manually open a valve to top up system.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭Rob113


    I'll have a proper look tomorrow when it's bright. It's working perfect for now. I think there might be a leak somewhere in the pump or pipes leading to the pump. The ground around the pump is soaked and I could hear a dripping sound.

    I haven't a breeze if it's an open or closed vent system. There is a large round red tank type thing beside the pump. Didn't notice if it had a pressure gauge or not. I'll have a look tomorrow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    By the sounds of things you should have an automatic air vent at the top of the boiler, that would be ideal and stop the air building up at the top of the boiler.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    I have the boiler running for three years, suddenly it won't start up properly. It comes on for three seconds and then switches off. I checked oil (ok) and unscrewed the screw on the water pump. There came some water out but not 'gushing'. Any advice?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 902 ✭✭✭DoneDL


    what is the burner model, try giving the flame sensor a clean.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    It is the model GEM TOP CLEANER 60/90. How do I access the flame sensor?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 902 ✭✭✭DoneDL


    heinzschafer, what is the burner model that is attached to the boiler.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    I give you all the information on the burner:
    R.B.L. G3X-60
    Type 435595
    COD 3743692
    N. 01274020146
    DZZQ

    I hope that is the information you are looking for?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    I took a picture of the burner:
    (don't now how to upload it? a *.jpg file)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 902 ✭✭✭DoneDL


    has the red light on the reset button come on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    No


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    It comes on for three seconds and then switches off. ?

    Lock out on a G3 should occure at 12 seconds so is it actually switching off at "3 seconds"


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    What is a G3?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 902 ✭✭✭DoneDL


    Is the boiler hot or cold to touch.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    Cold


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 902 ✭✭✭DoneDL


    If the boiler is cold then the problem is most likely on the burner side, if the reset hasn`t popped then you would be best advised to get someone to have a look as there are several things it could be.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    I'm afraid that is my conclusion as well. Than you very much for your support.
    P.P. You please explain how to clean the flame sensor?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Remove the red box/cover (3 screws, top and sides) remove the control box (box with reset button on it, screw on left and pull back towards you) the photocell is attached at the front of the circuit board on the box, slid off and clean the cell with a clean dry cloth, replace.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    I took the control box off, it wasn't with three screws, only one screw and then it was a slot in process, but I think I saw the cell and cleaned it, but no success?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭Prenderb


    I had a problem with my boiler this week, turns out the fire valve screw solder had melted, so the valve closed. If the knob/wheel is disconnected on that, it could be the same with yours?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 heinzschafer


    Prenderb wrote: »
    I had a problem with my boiler this week, turns out the fire valve screw solder had melted, so the valve closed. If the knob/wheel is disconnected on that, it could be the same with yours?
    Could you please be more specific, I'm no technically beginner, only not plumbing and heating.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    I took the control box off, it wasn't with three screws, only one screw and then it was a slot in process, but I think I saw the cell and cleaned it, but no success?

    You oviously have 2 screws missing. IF your G3 burner is cutting out after "3 seconds" and not locking out then you need the man, the Oftec man.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Burner runs for 3 secs the lockout......replace control box
    Burner motor runs for 12 secs, ignites then for 3-5 secs.....clean/replace photocell
    Problem persists, the is either a fuel supply problem (blockage etc) or air is set to high (do not attempt to adjust yourself CO can be the result!)


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