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Ford Focus Oil Change

  • 07-11-2010 1:35pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 103 ✭✭


    Hi,

    is it worth my while doing an oil and filter change myself or would it be worth bringing it to the garage? I have never done it before and obviously doing it myself would be cheaper but would it be that much cheaper to make the hassle of it worth while. Its a 1.8 focus diesel, 1999.

    Any tips on changing oil also appreciated....


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84,761 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    It's easy enough, trickiest part can be taking off the old filter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,680 ✭✭✭mondeo


    A garage will charge you 90 odd to change the oil for you...

    Buy the oil yourself for about 27 euro and a fiver for an oil filter. It's like tying your shoe laces it's the simplest thing to do.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 103 ✭✭eoin95


    Thats grand, will give it a go on friday.

    I was looking at the engine today and I noticed a black wire has broke. This is a pic of it although not very clear. The arrow on the right shows the wire and the arrow on the left shows where it has broke... Its at the back of the engine, near the windscreen and is fairly centered. Any ideas what it is and is it important!!!

    08112010021.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 541 ✭✭✭David09


    mondeo wrote: »
    It's like tying your shoe laces it's the simplest thing to do.

    Or tying them together if you're unsure of what to do. :D

    OP, pm me your email and I'll send you some pdf tech files on the tddi focus. They may be of assistance.

    Looks like that wire is off the egr valve, but I can't see clearly..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 103 ✭✭eoin95


    i read somewhere that you need to fill the filter with oil before you attach it, is this the case cause the filter attaches on its side and so it'd just pour out before i attached it. It was something to do with not getting an air lock.... I know i need to wipe the seal with oil but do i need to fill it?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,972 ✭✭✭patrickc


    eoin95 wrote: »
    i read somewhere that you need to fill the filter with oil before you attach it, is this the case cause the filter attaches on its side and so it'd just pour out before i attached it. It was something to do with not getting an air lock.... I know i need to wipe the seal with oil but do i need to fill it?

    no just run your finger with a little oil on it around the filter seal will give a better seal. when you've filled up the oil, run the engine for a few mins check the oil again and oil will go into the filter itself then. you will need to put more oil in then.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 103 ✭✭eoin95


    I've given up!! drained the oil, with a load of mess and hassle I got the old filter off. New filter on and filled up the engine with the new oil. Started the car and oil EVERYWHERE...... Don't think the filter was tight enough so tried to tighten again and oil everywhere again. (all this took about 2 hours!!)

    Just back from the dropping the car to a mechanic, had to get a tow there cause couldn't start the engine cause the oil leak and to top it all off my battery died so to try and start the car after I re-tightened the filter I had to get a jump.

    So to answer my initial question "is it worth the hassle".... I don't think so!!!

    Although the one good thing from all this is I noticed a small tear in the timing belt while I was under there.... I did manage to successfully change my brake pads a few months back but I think for working on my car I'll give it a miss in future!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    That's the whole purpose of diy, so you learn the proper way how to do it. Sure it's not without it's head aches. I wouldn't lose faith in my abilities after 1 or 2 failed attempts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,972 ✭✭✭patrickc


    eoin95 wrote: »
    I've given up!! drained the oil, with a load of mess and hassle I got the old filter off. New filter on and filled up the engine with the new oil. Started the car and oil EVERYWHERE...... Don't think the filter was tight enough so tried to tighten again and oil everywhere again. (all this took about 2 hours!!)

    Just back from the dropping the car to a mechanic, had to get a tow there cause couldn't start the engine cause the oil leak and to top it all off my battery died so to try and start the car after I re-tightened the filter I had to get a jump.

    So to answer my initial question "is it worth the hassle".... I don't think so!!!

    Although the one good thing from all this is I noticed a small tear in the timing belt while I was under there.... I did manage to successfully change my brake pads a few months back but I think for working on my car I'll give it a miss in future!!!


    are you sure you tightened the sump nut enough? you'll learn from your mistakes, i wouldnt give up that easily. the first time is usually the hardest but you will learn from that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,482 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    Haynes manual may help you.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 stigofthesump


    I've heard that the gearbox oil can be critical on Ford Focuses. Anyone got any experience of this? Mine's an '02 1.4.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,482 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    I've heard that the gearbox oil can be critical on Ford Focuses. Anyone got any experience of this? Mine's an '02 1.4.

    Gear box oil is critical for changing gears, yes.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,340 ✭✭✭mullingar


    Bad luck on your first attempt, was there any chance you cross-threaded the new filter? It should "spin" on for at least 5 turns


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 103 ✭✭eoin95


    turned out the old filter seal was still on the engine and that caused the leak. A big DOUGH!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,972 ✭✭✭patrickc


    eoin95 wrote: »
    turned out the old filter seal was still on the engine and that caused the leak. A big DOUGH!!!!

    better look next time, an easy error.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,248 ✭✭✭Plug


    eoin95 wrote: »
    turned out the old filter seal was still on the engine and that caused the leak. A big DOUGH!!!!
    :o

    Well sure look, next time it will be handy. A few tips:
    1)Leave the engine running to warm the oil.
    2)When draining the oil keep the oil pan back from the bung to avoid a mess.
    3)Rub some oil around the seal of the new filter.
    4)Oil capacity is a little over 5 litres on them engines.

    Hope this helps


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    eoin95 wrote: »
    i read somewhere that you need to fill the filter with oil before you attach it, is this the case cause the filter attaches on its side and so it'd just pour out before i attached it. It was something to do with not getting an air lock.... I know i need to wipe the seal with oil but do i need to fill it?
    eoin95 wrote: »
    I've given up!! drained the oil, with a load of mess and hassle I got the old filter off. New filter on and filled up the engine with the new oil. Started the car and oil EVERYWHERE...... Don't think the filter was tight enough so tried to tighten again and oil everywhere again. (all this took about 2 hours!!)

    Just back from the dropping the car to a mechanic, had to get a tow there cause couldn't start the engine cause the oil leak and to top it all off my battery died so to try and start the car after I re-tightened the filter I had to get a jump.

    So to answer my initial question "is it worth the hassle".... I don't think so!!!

    Although the one good thing from all this is I noticed a small tear in the timing belt while I was under there.... I did manage to successfully change my brake pads a few months back but I think for working on my car I'll give it a miss in future!!!


    It depends on the way the filter is mounted.If its facing up, then yeah you can do it without it spilling out, but what I do is just before I do the job is while the engine is running to remove the fuel pump fuse and let the engine stop.Then do the job and when you are finished to turn over the engine until the oil light goes off, then replace the fuse and the engine oil filter is primed.I don't like removing the coil pack wiring in case I set a fault code.Don't ever put on the filter with a tool (assuming you have the metal canister type).The reason is not to do with an airlock.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,248 ✭✭✭Plug


    jimmyw wrote: »
    It depends on the way the filter is mounted.If its facing up, then yeah you can do it without it spilling out, but what I do is just before I do the job is while the engine is running to remove the fuel pump fuse and let the engine stop.Then do the job and when you are finished to turn over the engine until the oil light goes off, then replace the fuse and the engine oil filter is primed.I don't like removing the coil pack wiring in case I set a fault code.Don't ever put on the filter with a tool (assuming you have the metal canister type)
    I know a chap who worked on a farm and the farmer got him to change the oil and filters. He tightened the filters back on with a chain type filter remover. Big mess!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    eoin95 wrote: »
    turned out the old filter seal was still on the engine and that caused the leak. A big DOUGH!!!!

    Well there you go then, you will know the next time.No big deal and no harm done ( I assume).
    Plug wrote: »
    I know a chap who worked on a farm and the farmer got him to change the oil and filters. He tightened the filters back on with a chain type filter remover. Big mess!

    Ah well you would not expect anything else from them muck savages,:D.They would do anything themselves or leave their mother do it;)


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