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Stipple celing solution

  • 05-11-2010 2:45pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 164 ✭✭


    Hi,

    Our house is only 7 years old we bought it 2nd hand, my problem is the kitchen and diningroom downstairs I would really love smooth ceilings and am looking at various options


    The kitchen celining area is 16.5ft long / 8.5ft wide with 2 light fittings
    The dining room is 12ft long / 8ft wide with 1 light fitting

    So what i am enquiring is if I get them reboarded and plastered how much (roughly )
    If I have then scraped and skimmed how much

    And is there any other option available to have these removed

    I HATE STIPPLES!!!!! :mad:

    Thanks as always


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,903 ✭✭✭✭mfceiling


    Hi,

    You are looking at 8x8ft plasterboard slabs to cover them - approx €80
    2 bags skimcoat to plaster them - approx €20
    Labour for all - approx €250

    All in all about the €350 mark should sort it out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Or you could scrape them off (with water and mask), polybond and reskim for ~200 Id say


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,340 CMod ✭✭✭✭Davy


    Couldn't you use light coat of bonding, and then skim.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 164 ✭✭shellyb73


    Thanks lads, not as bad as I thought so.. just have to talk the hubby into it now!! ;)
    Thanks again..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 86 ✭✭west101


    have done this before with lining paper, I used 1400 grade paper, looks well when finished relativly cheap compared to other methods, to get rid og the joints between the paper just use pollyfiller


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    You could just buy a large bucket of Pollyfilla "Smooth Over" for around 35 euro in BnQ or Woodies for stippled ceilings and roll it on.

    It does exaxctly what it says it does.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭Sparkpea


    paddy147 wrote: »
    You could just buy a large bucket of Pollyfilla "Smooth Over" for around 35 euro in BnQ or Woodies for stippled ceilings and roll it on.

    It does exaxctly what it says it does.;)

    have u ever tried using this? theres a bit more too it than that.. plus it would take loads of the tubs and imo its a nightmare to use.. unless ur good at plastering or something


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Sparkpea wrote: »
    have u ever tried using this? theres a bit more too it than that.. plus it would take loads of the tubs and imo its a nightmare to use.. unless ur good at plastering or something


    Eh,yes I have used it,and all you really need is a steady hand.

    It doesnt take loads of tubs if you use it propperly and precisely.

    It can also be thinned out a bit with some water,if you are really tight on it with regards your ceiling.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,318 ✭✭✭✭Menas


    Get a good plasterer to come and look at it.
    He can advise if he needs to replace the boards or if he can simply skim over it.
    We had this done recently and it does make a world of difference.
    I would not DIY this unless you are absolutely confident in your abilities.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,528 ✭✭✭BoardsMember


    Get a good plasterer to come and look at it.
    He can advise if he needs to replace the boards or if he can simply skim over it.
    We had this done recently and it does make a world of difference.
    I would not DIY this unless you are absolutely confident in your abilities.
    I'd second that.

    We had stipple issues too. Me and some mates tore the ceilings down, re boarded, and left the skim to an expert, Job was perfect.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 336 ✭✭CBYR1983


    I had some ceilings done - they basically painted on a polybond that I think they called "Ronafix", and just used skimcoat.

    Used a fair few bags of skimcoat, but the job is still good, four years on.

    If you put up extra boards you do lose some ceiling height, but only marginally.


    That said, if I were doing it now, and the house were empty, I'd pull off all the original plasterboard and put up the 38mm insulated plasterboard, for thermal and acoustic purposes, imo it would be worth the small loss of ceiling height, and probably pay for itself in the long term.


    Plastering is fairly messy - don't expect any plasterer to leave your house like a palace - there will be a lot of dust and dirt, and you'll likely have to repaint the walls as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 164 ✭✭shellyb73


    The process of removing the stipples is underway!!!!!!

    Thank you for all your advice on this and Im looking forward to a stipple free life from now on :D:D:D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭jj build


    wallpaper stripper is good for that with gloves


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    jj build wrote: »
    wallpaper stripper is good for that with gloves


    And do you know what even better and faster than that?


    A steamer and a filling knife or wall paper stripper/scraper

    The steamer on the stipple for around 10 seconds makes the stipple fall off in chunks.:D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭jj build


    paddy147 wrote: »
    And do you know what even better and faster than that?


    A steamer and a filling knife or wall paper stripper/scraper

    The steamer on the stipple for around 10 seconds makes the stipple fall off in chunks.:D
    its the same thing


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    jj build wrote: »
    its the same thing


    Eh,No its not,actually.

    An electric steamer is alot faster (allmost instant stripping) and its not the same thing as wallpaper stripper,as water is turned into steam with the electric steamer and its also natural and has no chemicals in it,which unlike wallpaper stripper that has chemicals in it and has to be left to soak into the paint for quite a while to work.

    Wall paper stripper is much more time consuming and labour intensive too.

    Electric steamer is much much better and faster,thanks to the heat and the steam penetrating the wall and paint instantly.
    been there done it and have the t-shirt (several times over at this stage).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,262 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Eh,No its not,actually.

    An electric steamer is alot faster (allmost instant stripping) and its not the same thing as wallpaper stripper,as water is turned into steam with the electric steamer and its also natural and has no chemicals in it,which unlike wallpaper stripper that has chemicals in it and has to be left to soak into the paint for quite a while to work.

    Wall paper stripper is much more time consuming and labour intensive too.

    Electric steamer is much much better and faster,thanks to the heat and the steam penetrating the wall and paint instantly.
    been there done it and have the t-shirt (several times over at this stage).

    You just need to be careful with it when you are using it over your head. The steam will condense and collect in the hand held thingie (technical term) and it'll fall and scald you.... Its not nice - trust me....


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭jj build


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Eh,No its not,actually.

    An electric steamer is alot faster (allmost instant stripping) and its not the same thing as wallpaper stripper,as water is turned into steam with the electric steamer and its also natural and has no chemicals in it,which unlike wallpaper stripper that has chemicals in it and has to be left to soak into the paint for quite a while to work.

    Wall paper stripper is much more time consuming and labour intensive too.

    Electric steamer is much much better and faster,thanks to the heat and the steam penetrating the wall and paint instantly.
    been there done it and have the t-shirt (several times over at this stage).
    i wasn't talking about the chemical who the hell yous that i was talking about a steamer wallpaper stripper that's why i said where a glove so you are not scalded i have three earlex ones we yous them on house renovations before we re re skim the house


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    jj build wrote: »
    i wasn't talking about the chemical who the hell yous that i was talking about a steamer wallpaper stripper that's why i said where a glove so you are not scalded i have three earlex ones we yous them on house renovations before we re re skim the house


    Fair enough so.

    But 1st of all,you did not say that in your original post,so you left yourself open for correction.You said "wallpaper stripper you wear gloves",but you did not say that it was an electric steamer/stripper and the use of gloves was for prevention of scalding either.

    Some people still do use "conventional" wall paper stripper solution for situations like this.And they also use gloves when working with this solution too,as it has chemicals in it.



    Also,can you please try and maybe spell a bit better and also use some "Capital" letters,comma,s and full stops please when posting?


    It makes it easier to actually read what you are trying to post and say.

    Thanks.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭jj build


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Fair enough so.

    But 1st of all,you did not say that in your original post,so you left yourself open for correction.You said "wallpaper stripper you wear gloves",but you did not say that it was an electric steamer/stripper and the use of gloves was for prevention of scalding either.

    Some people still do use "conventional" wall paper stripper solution for situations like this.And they also use gloves when working with this solution too,as it has chemicals in it.



    Also,can you please try and maybe spell a bit better and also use some "Capital" letters,comma,s and full stops please when posting?


    It makes it easier to actually read what you are trying to post and say.

    Thanks.
    you must be having trouble at home or else you have a very sad life trying to annoy me


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    There are 2 different makes of stipple. Artex and Nutex. The Steamer will not take off the Artex. Artex can be skimmed over but you first paint it with Polly bond and even then it is a nightmare to skim because the gypsum skim dries really fast. We suffered on one about 10 years ago. If I were to do one now I would skim it with lime putty.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    jj build wrote: »
    you must be having trouble at home or else you have a very sad life trying to annoy me


    I have a great life in my new house and with my partner and daughter.Infact life is just perfect for me.

    Im not trying to annoy you at all,not my problem that you may feel annoyed though.

    regards


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭jj build


    paddy147 wrote: »
    I have a great life in my new house and with my partner and daughter.Infact life is just perfect for me.

    Im not trying to annoy you at all,not my problem that you may feel annoyed though.

    regards
    Ah that will explain it so yer only starting out good luck to ye so


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    jj build wrote: »
    Ah that will explain it so yer only starting out good luck to ye so


    Im not starting out at all,Ive been on the property ladder for a good while now and have made some very wize and sound financial investments over the years.This has led me to being in the position of now owning my house now,while still only in my early 30s.

    Thanks for your concern though,and good luck to you too.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭jj build


    yea still only starting out


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭zipzoc


    Get a good plasterer to come and look at it.
    He can advise if he needs to replace the boards or if he can simply skim over it.
    We had this done recently and it does make a world of difference.
    I would not DIY this unless you are absolutely confident in your abilities.

    Could anyone recommend a plasterer with experience at this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭cosmowillie53


    I need to Repair a small patch of stipple about one foot square.
    Any ideas on how to do that.
    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,716 ✭✭✭1chippy


    has anyone tried using thistle bond on the ceiling then skimming over. it works pretty well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    Lads lads lads you do know there is asbestos in aertex and it should never be sanded or scraped. do it the right way put on a mask take down the boards re slap and skim. its very dangerous stuff Google if your not sure


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭zipzoc


    zipzoc wrote: »
    Could anyone recommend a plasterer with experience at this?

    Anyone?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Spread


    'Twould help if you said where you're located.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 Hinson


    zipzoc wrote: »
    Anyone?

    I will do it for you, Im a plasterer based in tallaght with many years of experience at this. Its a bit messy though, so you will need to get everything out of the room you want skimmed. First i remove the larger bumps off the ceiling with a scraper (wearing a mask as old ceilings contain white asbestos). Then i put a pva bond on the ceiling with a roller. Wait for this to go tacky and then the ceiling is skimmed using two coats as i would any ceiling. The result is a perfect ceiling every time. I did one as recently as last week you can have a look at it if you want and ive probably done over a hundred in the last 12 years in UK and Ireland.

    I usually charge about 150 for a big living room/ dining room ceiling (materials and labour). Then maybe 70 upwards for smaller rooms.

    Doug 0857039978


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    Thats a good deal but would still be better re slabed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 Hinson


    650gs wrote: »
    Thats a good deal but would still be better re slabed

    But at least double the price for the exact same finish. Also when you over skim you can normally leave any coveing in place so you save again there.

    Personally i would only recommend a re board if you had a water damaged ceiling that was warped, or a very unlevel ceiling. I know what you mean about the white asbestos, but if a customer was worried about scraping the stipple I would just bond and skim instead without disturbing the artex. This takes a little more time however. I always wear a mask for scraping off stipple anyway and if this is hoovered/ mopped up afterwards it poses no risk to the householder whatsoever.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭zipzoc


    Sorry, I forgot my location didn't show beside my name. I'm based in Dublin. On the northside. Hinson, thanks for your reply. I just sent you a message.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    :eek: Important Safety notice: Be aware that some drywall compounds used in the 70s and even 80s were made with an asbestos. It is possible that your stipple ceiling has asbestos in it, even though asbestos was largely outlawed from use in 1978. This is because contractors and builders were allowed to use asbestos-containing supplies they already had on hand. If you suspect your ceiling contains asbestos, you should get it tested at an asbestos testing lab before sanding it. Sanding an asbestos ceiling would release large quanties of airborne asbestos – the most dangerous kind. Asbestos has been known to cause asbestosis and mesothelioma.

    As I said highly dangerous to everyone that enters the house for at least 24hrs and a hover does not work you should have a specialist remove this


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    650gs wrote: »
    Thats a good deal but would still be better re slabed


    Like this??

    Old original stippled ceiling from a 1972 kitchen extension that gave way due to a water leak from the flat roof above it.:(


    Now reslabbed and replastered smoothly too (thankfully)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,725 ✭✭✭oleras


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Like this??

    Old original stippled ceiling from a 1972 kitchen extension that gave way due to a water leak from the flat roof above it.:(


    Now reslabbed and replastered smoothly too (thankfully)

    I would call that stipple "textured paint" compared to the stalactites i have in my house...;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,835 ✭✭✭dennyire


    650gs wrote: »
    :eek: Important Safety notice: Be aware that some drywall compounds used in the 70s and even 80s were made with an asbestos. It is possible that your stipple ceiling has asbestos in it, even though asbestos was largely outlawed from use in 1978. This is because contractors and builders were allowed to use asbestos-containing supplies they already had on hand. If you suspect your ceiling contains asbestos, you should get it tested at an asbestos testing lab before sanding it. Sanding an asbestos ceiling would release large quanties of airborne asbestos – the most dangerous kind. Asbestos has been known to cause asbestosis and mesothelioma.

    As I said highly dangerous to everyone that enters the house for at least 24hrs and a hover does not work you should have a specialist remove this

    Agree totally

    On no account scrape away loose stipple unless area is held under negative pressure ( this would be carried out by a competent asbestos removal contractor but would be costly~)
    Scraping stipple will cause airborne fibres which will NEVER be totally got rid of in a normal situation.
    Even hoovering is no good..you would need a Hepa Filter vacuum, and would still not get rid of the airborne fibres.

    Best option is to just plaster over the existing ceiling...if there are some uneven areas a good plasterer should be able to sort this out

    But , as I say, DONT scrape whats there


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,835 ✭✭✭dennyire


    Hinson wrote: »
    But at least double the price for the exact same finish. Also when you over skim you can normally leave any coveing in place so you save again there.

    Personally i would only recommend a re board if you had a water damaged ceiling that was warped, or a very unlevel ceiling. I know what you mean about the white asbestos, but if a customer was worried about scraping the stipple I would just bond and skim instead without disturbing the artex. This takes a little more time however. I always wear a mask for scraping off stipple anyway and if this is hoovered/ mopped up afterwards it poses no risk to the householder whatsoever.

    YOU wear a mask?????????? what about the houseowner??
    What type of mask? Is it a P3 with filters or just your standard builders dust mask, which is totally ineffective.

    How can you say if you scrape off stipple and then hoover it poses no risks?
    Have you ever arranged for independent air monitoring by an accredidited analyst after your work...????????
    Bet 10000/ 1 you havent, based on those comments


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭zipzoc


    650gs wrote: »
    :eek: Important Safety notice: Be aware that some drywall compounds used in the 70s and even 80s were made with an asbestos. It is possible that your stipple ceiling has asbestos in it, even though asbestos was largely outlawed from use in 1978. This is because contractors and builders were allowed to use asbestos-containing supplies they already had on hand. If you suspect your ceiling contains asbestos, you should get it tested at an asbestos testing lab before sanding it. Sanding an asbestos ceiling would release large quanties of airborne asbestos – the most dangerous kind. Asbestos has been known to cause asbestosis and mesothelioma.

    As I said highly dangerous to everyone that enters the house for at least 24hrs and a hover does not work you should have a specialist remove this

    Thanks for the warning 650gs


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