Wiring a 2nd light switch of existing switch?

paddy147

I want to get a 2nd light switch fitted at the other end of my garage.The electrician forgot to do it for me and is not around for at least another 10 days or so.

How simple is it to wire it?

Would I be right in saying that 1 length of cable goes from the existing light switch to the new switch?

And then another length of cable goes from the new switch to the light fittings?

Pic of existing switch attached.

meercat

http://2wayswitch.com/2-way-switch-wiring-diagram/
there you go
safety first turn power off
you need a 4core 1.5 nym cable to new switch or( 1.5 twin and earth and 1.5 pvc/pvc brown to operate )

paddy147

meercat wrote: »

http://2wayswitch.com/2-way-switch-wiring-diagram/
there you go
safety first turn power off
you need a 4core 1.5 nym cable to new switch or( 1.5 twin and earth and 1.5 pvc/pvc brown to operate )

Thanks.:)

Yeah,power will be naturally switched off at the fuseboard,I aint that stupid as to work with live cables.I value my health and life too much.

paddy147

The light grey cable comming out fron the fuseboard is the cable out to the existing switch.
Its not the normal/usual flat style twin and earth.

Do you know what type of cable that looks like?

Thanks.:)

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

The light grey cable comming out fron the fuseboard is the cable out to the existing switch.
Its not the normal/usual flat style twin and earth.

Do you know what type of cable that looks like?

Thanks.:)

Hard to quite see it there but it looks like NYMJ cable.

meercat

agree nymj
by the way you may be better waiting for your sparks.looks like nice tidy job in your garage.sure it will be worth the wait if he is that neat and tidy

Bruthal

Im glad to see that, i think my eyesight is goin:D

paddy147

meercat wrote: »

agree nymj
by the way you may be better waiting for your sparks.looks like nice tidy job in your garage.sure it will be worth the wait if he is that neat and tidy

Have to say,that not only was he fast to install the fuseboard,fixtures,cabling,lights and sockets,but he was indeed very neat and precise too.:)

He installed the double sockets on the walls above work bench height for quick and easy access,and he also suggested that they be fitted with metal conduit and metal boxes, incase of getting a smack of a hammer or general damage from working with power tools and doing diy in the garage.

ntpm

paddy147 wrote: »

Have to say,that not only was he fast to install the fuseboard,fixtures,cabling,lights and sockets,but he was indeed very neat and precise too.:)

He installed the double sockets on the walls above work bench height for quick and easy access,and he also suggested that they be fitted with metal conduit and metal boxes, incase of getting a smack of a hammer or general damage from working with power tools and doing diy in the garage.

If you were happy with his works then I would wait till he gets back.
If you go at it and there is a problem now or later he may wash his hands of the whole installation.
Also re-wiring might not be as straight forward as it sounds.
Looks like the neutral and earth are probably run to the first light switch. ( this isn't shown on in meercat drawing).

#Simple solutuion:
Second 2 way switch switch
You need min 4cables: diverted live Feed, brown/ brown (return loop) and earth.
(But should also run neutral for future use).
The lights are still fed from the first light switch.

#Ideal rewire solution:
Disconnect light supply (switch live LNE) from first light switch to light fixture.
Run brown/brown (loop), neutral and earth to second light 2 way light switch.
Run light supply (switch live LNE) from second light switch to light fixture.

running additional cables down existing metal conduit might not be too easy, might need to run in singles or strip the NYMJ.
Also you migt want to fit metal box and conduit to second switch location.

Are you realy in such a hurry for a second switch at moment???

M cebee

paddy147 wrote: »

The light grey cable comming out fron the fuseboard is the cable out to the existing switch.
Its not the normal/usual flat style twin and earth.

Do you know what type of cable that looks like?

Thanks.:)

did you put an 'isolating switch' into that board-don't see it?:)
he prob rcd'd the whole board

what is that cable?

paddy147

M cebee wrote: »

did you put an 'isolating switch' into that board-don't see it?:)
he prob rcd'd the whole board

what is that cable?

The cable is 3 core 10 square SWA and it runs under ground up into the house and then through the ceiling and down into the mains fuse board.

Theres a 63A mains isolating switch on the SWA itself at the fuse board.

I,ll take a pic of the mains fuseboard later on to show you.:)

Bruthal

paddy147 wrote: »

The cable is 3 core 10 square SWA and it runs under ground up into the house and then through the ceiling and down into the mains fuse board.

Theres a 63A mains isolating switch on the SWA itself at the fuse board.

I,ll take a pic of the mains fuseboard later on to show you.:)

What mceebe meant was there does`t appear to be an isolating switch in the board in the shed which would be usually done so you can isolate everything at the board in the shed. You would`t want to rely on isolation from a point you cant see if working on the shed board etc,, and he is suggesting that maybe your sparks has the lighting and sockets all through the RCD in the shed board which would be acting like an isolator then.
Only problem having an RCD doing all circuits is you would be in the dark if a socket circuit tripped the RCD if indeed it is controlling the whole board.
Nothing wrong with that though once you can manage if that did happen.
But a main switched fuse at the shed board would be the usual setup.

M cebee

paddy147 wrote: »

The cable is 3 core 10 square SWA and it runs under ground up into the house and then through the ceiling and down into the mains fuse board.

Theres a 63A mains isolating switch on the SWA itself at the fuse board.

I,ll take a pic of the mains fuseboard later on to show you.:)

i meant the blue? cables

hope that's not a double switchfuse in the box

Bruthal

M cebee wrote: »

i meant the blue? cables

hope that's not a double switchfuse in the box

Yea that just would`t do at all, its almost like 2 taken off a 3 phase cutout.

M cebee

-rcd isolating switch is bad practice imo


but a DP switchfuse on the consumer unit -yikes:) i hope not

Bruthal

M cebee wrote: »

-rcd isolating switch is bad practice imo


but a DP switchfuse on the consumer unit -yikes:) i hope not

Yes no doubt its bad practice, even though i said

Nothing wrong with that though once you can manage if that did happen

i would still agree its not ideal at all, i would`t do it without switch fuse or isolator in the shed.

As for the DP switchfuse,, no comment needed

paddy147

Pic of mains fuse board.

Pic of garage fuse board.

1 tripswitch for the lights,1 for the sockets and 1 for the fused spur for the electric roller garage door.

M cebee

SP switchfuse anyhow in consumer unit

-you should've followed the advice you were given regarding the shed board-rather than use the rcd main switch

as it creates a potential nuisance or hazard

paddy147

M cebee wrote: »

SP switchfuse anyhow in consumer unit

-you should've followed the advice you were given regarding the shed board-rather than use the rcd main switch

as it creates a potential nuisance or hazard

Sorry,excuse me for a minute here,but...............

IM NOT a SPARKS.

The electrician installed it for me and made it live,not me;)

The 63A switch up in the right hand corner of the mains fuseboard (no 12) was installed along with the 3 core 10 square,thats all I know.

M cebee

it's no big deal-not worth changing

maybe he just wanted to rcd the whole shed