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enough flow ?

  • 18-10-2010 11:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 64 ✭✭


    :rolleyes:hi all
    couple of newbie questions i hope i can get some help with:
    hoping to install a mains fed electric shower in my bathroom, first floor, in a normal 3-bed semi type house,
    :?: 1
    if i 't' off the rising mains at attic floor level, before cistern stopcock, and across coupla joists & drop down to the shower, will i lose much pressure as compared to coming off the mains at 1st floor level , across bathroom and up to the shower ???(which involves a lot more destruction and working inside a tiny cupboard, alice in wonderland comes to mind :roll: eat me
    :?: 2
    checked mains pressure in attic, just before cistern stopcock and was getting 1.8bar and 3.5-4l minute flow(from a 15mm plastic pipe), dropping to 0bar when kitchen tap was open full. Does this seem like enough of a flow to service one of these type of showers
    :?: 3
    the mains pressure seems to be in the requirements of the manufacturer (1.0bar to run normally, 0.7bar min) but i noticed it needs a static head of 0.2 bar to keep the inlet solenoid closed. Will the showerhead dribble water when the kitchen tap is in use, or the dishwasher or washing machine are drawing from the mains feed, for that matter -when the shower is not in use.
    if anyone has any experience in this i would love to hear.
    I will presume the shower will not run when these are in use due to the pressure drop
    The mains feed up through the house is 1/2" black poly
    the rest of water in house is gravity fed system hw-cylinder etc
    any help on any of the above greatly accepted


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    ,
    :?: 1
    if i 't' off the rising mains at attic floor level, before cistern stopcock, and across coupla joists & drop down to the shower, will i lose much pressure as compared to coming off the mains at 1st floor level , across bathroom and up to the shower ???(which involves a lot more destruction and working inside a tiny cupboard, alice in wonderland comes to mind :roll: eat me

    No...The norm in your situation would be to T off before the stop cock. Fit a ball valve and make sure its open fully.... A full bore ball valve would be best if you can get your hands on one.
    :?: 2
    checked mains pressure in attic, just before cistern stopcock and was getting 1.8bar and 3.5-4l minute flow(from a 15mm plastic pipe), dropping to 0bar when kitchen tap was open full. Does this seem like enough of a flow to service one of these type of showers

    @1.8 bar you will be fine. But if someone runs the kitchen tap or the washing machine fills whist someone is having a shower it will starve the shower of pressure causing the pressure light to come on or the water to go cold..
    :?: 3
    the mains pressure seems to be in the requirements of the manufacturer (1.0bar to run normally, 0.7bar min) but i noticed it needs a static head of 0.2 bar to keep the inlet solenoid closed. Will the showerhead dribble water when the kitchen tap is in use, or the dishwasher or washing machine are drawing from the mains feed, for that matter -when the shower is not in use.
    if anyone has any experience in this i would love to hear.
    I will presume the shower will not run when these are in use due to the pressure drop
    The mains feed up through the house is 1/2" black poly
    the rest of water in house is gravity fed system hw-cylinder etc
    any help on any of the above greatly accepted[/QUOTE]

    I dont know on the last bit... Generally 1/2" poly black is either heavy gaugue LDPE or Light gauge you will need to convert it down in both cases...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 64 ✭✭dubdad


    thanks joey
    think the poly is prob the heavy duty. didn,t enjoy working with it while replacing and moving my cistern recently , all the compression fittings are a size up than if the pipe was copper, and the 3/4" cold feed from the tank was in this as well. think it actually would have been cheaper and easier to scrap as much of it as i could and just use copper piping, after all the poly-adaptors and 1" parts, which needed swinging from not to mention all the ptfe... felt like florence nightingane on a bandaging spree!;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    dubdad wrote: »
    thanks joey
    think the poly is prob the heavy duty. didn,t enjoy working with it while replacing and moving my cistern recently , all the compression fittings are a size up than if the pipe was copper, and the 3/4" cold feed from the tank was in this as well. think it actually would have been cheaper and easier to scrap as much of it as i could and just use copper piping, after all the poly-adaptors and 1" parts, which needed swinging from not to mention all the ptfe... felt like florence nightingane on a bandaging spree!;)


    You should not need PTFE with hydrodare. I would have used the potable water equiv of boss white which i cannot think off at the moment...But each to there own.


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