Behringer BCD 2000 component Help.

cyberfrog

Hi,
I bought a Behringer BCD2000 off this site about a year ago.

It's worked okay except at the moment it has a lot of static on it's master output, this is due to a dodgy master potentiometer, to me it's a variable resistor but i think there's a difference.

Basically the knob got damaged sometime and it needs replacing.

I would be so gratefull if someone could tell me the value of this component.

Where i could purchase it, i think it's somewhere here.
http://www.dbmproaudio.com/behrparts.html
Or even point out which one to buy.

So in conclusion, i need to replace a component, it's the master output potentiometer. I'd like to know the values of it and or where to buy it.

Thank you all in advance.

Doge

I do not know the value of the component personally, but you could always open up the unit and look underneath the master pot, and the value and manufacturer should be engraved in the metal casing.

cyberfrog

waveform wrote: »

I do not know the value of the component personally, but you could always open up the unit and look underneath the master pot, and the value and manufacturer should be engraved in the metal casing.

hi, i have opened it up, but there are no values on the pot or around it on the board. The only thing i know is that the manufacturer, or brand is alps. Thanks for the advice though.

I don't know if anybody could help but any advice is apreciated thanks.

Doge

cyberfrog wrote: »

hi, i have opened it up, but there are no values on the pot or around it on the board. The only thing i know is that the manufacturer, or brand is alps. Thanks for the advice though.

I don't know if anybody could help but any advice is apreciated thanks.

Hmmm, almost any potentiometers i have seen have the values on them.

Maybe the knob is a rotary encoder instead.

Is it endless by any chance? As in turn endlessly?

If you could take a picture of the knob where its soldered to board, it would be a great help.

cyberfrog

you may be right and i'll look into it.
I can give you a picture but not until another few days, sorry.
It's in my friends house, he's having a look at it.
But i can tell you that there are six legs that go into the circuit board, all at one side of it, and although this may not make a difference but theres two other legs behind that but i'm nearly certain they just hold it in place. I'll try get a photo by the end of the week thanks for all this so far.

Doge

If its 6 legs, it sounds like a Stereo Potentiometer, which would make sense for a master pot.

3 legs per channel (Left/Right) in other words.

If your friend has a multimeter, he should be able to measure the resistance of the pot, when its fully closed.

You're spot on with the 2 other legs, they're there to hold it in place.

cyberfrog

I see, so would you be able to short them at all? So that it's at full output constantly? because i tried that as a previous solution but i had no joy in shorting it. I was using a multi meter that time, but what exactly am i measuring? The resistance or what? Thanks for all this, it might come in very handy.

Doge

cyberfrog wrote: »

I see, so would you be able to short them at all? So that it's at full output constantly? because i tried that as a previous solution but i had no joy in shorting it. I was using a multi meter that time, but what exactly am i measuring? The resistance or what? Thanks for all this, it might come in very handy.

Yep the resistance.

Switch it to either 200k or 2M (megaohms),





From that diagram, pin 3 is usually the input, and pin 2 the output.

So basically the audio is passed through pin 3, through a resistor, and comes out pin 2.

So these will be the pins you will be measuring the resistance from, remember you do not need to have the unit powered to measure the resistance of the pot.
And would be safer not to have it powered anyways!

By shorting pin 2 and 3, the audio should bypass the resistor inside. (using the word resistor loosely here!)

Then Short pin 2 and 3, on the other set of 3 pins for the other audio channel.

cyberfrog

that all makes sense except that there's six pins on mine.
the part looks very simmilar to this one here,just built slightly differently.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-10K-Potentiometer-6-Inline-Pins-Linear-taper-x2-/170437004196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27aed64ba4#ht_2799wt_905

http://www.codemsys.com/eb/PotStereo.jpg

Would you be able to or mind explain how to short it with 6 pins, i completely understand what you mean by the explanation above, just how would it work with the six pins.
Thanks again, this is very useful.

Doge

Ah sorry, this 6 pin, 2 rows by 3 pins, is the more common type:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bourns-250K-Dual-Blend-Balance-Audio-Taper-Pot-/140469588414?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20b4a3d1be


Logically, from left to right, it should be pin 2 and 3 for one channel, and pin 5 and 6 for the other.

I cannot guarantee that though.

cyberfrog

so what you're thinking is that if i short pins 2,3,5,6 it may short the resistor all togethor? And solve the problem?

Doge

cyberfrog wrote: »

so what you're thinking is that if i short pins 2,3,5,6 it may short the resistor all togethor? And solve the problem?

Thats the theory anways.

Be sure to short pin 2 and 3 separately to pins 5 and 6.

In other words, don't use the same conductor to cover all 4 pins. Use 2 conductors, one for pins 2 and 3, and one for pins 5 and 6.

If you see any smoke coming from the pot, be sure to disconnect immediately.

cyberfrog

Alright thanks for all your help, i think that's all you can say for now, you've been a great help. I haven't had a chance to mess around with it yet so i'll let you know when i do. Thanks again.

Doge

cyberfrog wrote: »

Alright thanks for all your help, i think that's all you can say for now, you've been a great help. I haven't had a chance to mess around with it yet so i'll let you know when i do. Thanks again.

No probs, i hope you get it sorted.

If the shorting doesnt work for you, you could always replace the pot with another dual inline potentiometer.

I'd imagine something in the 100Kohm + range would suffice.