Painting Interior Walls For 1st Time

islanderre

Hello all,

New house recently completed from a tradesman perspective; anyway the interior walls plastered were plastered last January and have gradually turned from the deep orange / pink color to a pinkish / whitish color and considering the heating has been on at various stages too, the walls are well dried out at this stage.

So, time has arrived for 1st painting of all rooms and I'm am looking for guidance on the best way to tackle the job; what I intend to do is the following:

• Clean down dust using dry cloth.
• Apply paint diluted with water and leave to dry.
• Apply final coats of paint undiluted.

I'd appreciate any comments, good, bad or indifferent!!!!!

Thanks

session savage

Hi there.
I just finished another one my rooms. This time I just cleaned down the walls and painted the whole room white (cieling and walls) and never bothered with polybond or anything, then I painted the final colour. I think it went easier than any of the others and the finish is bang on. This room was a light enough colour so I got away with 2x white and 1 x colour Thats how I'm gonna do the rest of the rooms too.
Good luck.

stej

Hi there,
The best and cheapest solution is to paint first time using cheap white paint mixed with PVA(polybond) and just water.After 12 hours you can use only white paint,or whatever colour you want.

johnthehandyman

Best practice would be to apply pva as this will seal the fresh plaster and greatly reduce the amount of paint you may require. Although your way will probably work out for you too.

country home

typical, i post a question and no help,

someone else posts the same thing and tonnes jump on board.. .

to OP. . . listen, dont waste ur time. .

if ur painting a drylined surface like ceiling or a wall that was DL, then fire away, , water down first coat and ull be grand. .

as for the other solid walls. . .
im having a nightmare, im going to try PVA and see will that work. . .
Mapping is crazy. . .
but go to local shop. . . no help here. .. must people here dont know what mapping is, yet its very very common. . .

islanderre

Everyone,

Thanks for all the replies!!!!!!

Going to press on as origionally outlined.

As for the 'MAPPING' issue..... well here is hoping I dont suffer that, sounds like a nightmare.

All the exterior walls are ICF with Plasterboard attached and the inside walls are plastered block.

Great information on here as always.

Thanks and best of luck to all.

CarrickMcJoe

I find that by coating the walls wwith matt emulsion first, mapping does not occur in the finish coats.



Mapping has to do with the plaster finish and when painted over, the wall looks like a map of the world .
Shows through soft shee and silk emulsions more.

Its shoddy plastering that is a pain in the hole, with waves in it or the angles are not straight. During the boom people would accept anything.

Wertz

CarrickMcJoe wrote: »

I find that by coating the walls wwith matt emulsion first, mapping does not occur in the finish coats.



Mapping has to do with the plaster finish and when painted over, the wall looks like a map of the world .
Shows through soft shee and silk emulsions more.

Its shoddy plastering that is a pain in the hole, with waves in it or the angles are not straight. During the boom people would accept anything.

It can though, no matter what you use as a basecoat...mapping isn't really a paint issue, it's a plaster issue and a reaction to whtaever it is that produces the mapping in the first place (alkali reaction due to badly mixed plaster, and/or cement scratchcoat bleeding through skim AFAIK), no matter if you prime it with oil undercoat or BIN the mapping will come out if it's there, it's just that oil and shellac will dry out flat anyway and will adhere better.
Matt may hide the mapping (eventually) but the adherence problem remains for following emulsion coats and you my well end up with bubbling/pinholing or wet-flaking (grr).

Personally I'd advise everyone staying away from the polybond on interior plaster. Other decorators may disagree, but on experience it does f*ck all and requires an extra coat (may as well be putting on a coat of white as a coat of clear plastic).

Fully agree on the shoddy plastering though. On many new jobs I can spend more time levelling off/filling out/touching up fillers as I would on double coating the walls, just to hide piss poor skimming or tape'n'float. When you consider what plasterers charge (or charged) compared to decorators, when the decorator is the one that has to remedy it or explain the poor finish to the client it's laughable.

soundsham

mapping is a plaster issue
don't bother with pva either...

1 de-nib wall with spatula,usually a few specks of plaster here and there especially in the corners
2 a quick and light sand of wall with grade 120-150 sandpaper.....or an old worn bit not to scratch the wall just to take off any other bits of crap
3 dust down walls
4 thin out 1st coat of paint with approx 15% water,fill touch up and caulk between coats,pure final coat

if your using matt as your finish work away
if you are finishing walls in soft sheen I recommend using the cheap matt white as a 1st coat only if mapping occurs,


buy a cheap white matt emulsion for your ceilings,finish all ceilings before starting your walls

p.s. dont have the heating blasting either,just low and constant is best for the house when its on.....during the day open as many windows as you can handle....