Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Hydralic tappets

  • 29-09-2010 5:42pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,461 ✭✭✭


    The tappets on my Mk3 (1.3L CVH) sound like a bag of nails. Any way of sorting this out?

    Shame their isn't a 'manual override' facility to adjust them!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,080 ✭✭✭✭Big Nasty


    1.3L M3!?! :eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,461 ✭✭✭Max_Damage


    MCMLXXV wrote: »
    1.3L M3!?! :eek:

    Heh, typo, Mk3! :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,461 ✭✭✭Max_Damage


    Currently using 5w30, which is what all Ford's use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 787 ✭✭✭junkyarddog


    Max_Damage wrote: »
    Currently using 5w30, which is what all Ford's use.

    20w50 might be better,5w30 is too thin for an older design engine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,318 ✭✭✭✭carchaeologist


    LIGHTNING wrote: »
    Thicker grade oil will help them if they are really noisy.
    Yep,lash in the thicker stuff,has worked for me before. Arent CVHs known for being a bit rattly anyways?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 598 ✭✭✭DannyBuoy


    Yea they were, in the good old days we were replacing cams, followers and carbs on every cvh mk3 in the country :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,461 ✭✭✭Max_Damage


    Mines all original (ish)! Although my VV carb has been converted to manual choke!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,318 ✭✭✭✭carchaeologist


    Considerable Vibration and Harshness used to be the p1sstake name for CVH engines.:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 289 ✭✭Basil Fawlty


    Clatters
    Very
    Hard


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭Bumpstop


    I had an engine that was very tappety and I was advised to use a thicker oil, which to my mind makes sense. However, it didn't cure the problem. What cured it was a thinner oil. Thick oil is bad for you car, 90 per cent of engine damage is done at start up, and even a very thin oil is way to thick at start up when cold.

    The misconception with oil is, thinking it gets too thin when hot. The actual problem is, oil gets too thick when it's cold. Have a look at this website http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ It will change the way you think about your cars precious fluid.
    I had to read it a few times to get it( I'm naturely thick, it's not learned), but it makes sense and the thinner oil has stopped my car sounding like a sewing machine.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,953 ✭✭✭Bigus


    Try engine flush first, and will also act like thinner oil while its in. Also drive the car with the flush in even though it says only let the engine idle.

    Had an 02 golf recently with bad tappets drove with flush in, this fixed tappets but started burning oil, mad (clouds) seemed knackered.
    Then changed oil and filter .... still burning oil mad,
    frightened the crap out of me.
    Drove hard for 5 miles still burning oil but seemed to be improving.
    let cool down all problems solved even when it heated up again.No burning oil no tappet noise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,755 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    If you can find one, "borrow" the valve gear from a RS1600i - They had solid tappets.

    An alternative is to try Burton Power or phone Kent Cams/Piper Cams to see if they have a solid tappet conversion kit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 977 ✭✭✭Wheelnut


    A light oil is generally what's needed for hydraulic tappets and 5w30 is the oil of preference. The only oil lighter in this market is 0w30 but that's actually the same grade with a lower pour point. I generally advise against oil flushing because it can dislodge old gunge that will block up oilways but you can try it if you like. If it were my engine I would not worry about start-up rattle provided it went away within about five seconds and if I wanted to do anything about it I would do some extra oil changes with a good quality light oil.


Advertisement