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What Makes A Good Motor Factor?

  • 27-09-2010 5:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 277 ✭✭


    I'm interested in finding out if anyone knows (or cares) about the difference between an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), OE (Original Equipment), and OES (Original Equipment Standard) part?



    In your opinion should your local Motor Factor be taking more care to spell out the differences? Has anyone been burned with a sub-standard part that was sold as being 'OE'?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,025 ✭✭✭✭-Corkie-


    I have a few commercial vehicles and I always get next to genuine filters. My cars I get original filters. On the other hand I was buying genuine bushings of the dealer and they were like paper. The oem ones were lasting way way longer..


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Motorcheck wrote: »
    I'm interested in finding out if anyone knows (or cares) about the difference between an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), OE (Original Equipment), and OES (Original Equipment Standard) part?

    For a VW Passat (for example) a Mann filter would be OE, for a Corolla a Mann filter would OEM. OES is debatable really as most manufacturers of spurious parts would claim they are OES.

    BTW, thread title and OP don't really correlate that well ;)


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,217 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wibbs


    I'd say it so depends on the car model and the spurious parts available. In the past I've used QH parts when cost was a factor and found no problems anyway. The other aspect is that some third party parts are actually better than OEM. Manufacturers make cars to a budget and sometimes aftermarket parts are made to a better standard.

    There's also the blurred lines of some aftermarket parts. Mugen and AMG are technically "aftermarket" parts but their quality can hardly be doubted by anyone. Many cars come with generic suspension parts, replacing them with Koni, Bilstein, Eibach etc are going to be superior quality and will improve roadholding and safety under braking. That goes for many parts one could fit to a car.

    I would agree that OES parts must be regulated(E mark, independent testing), but beyond that? Not so much. Too often the reason people buy spurious is because of the excessive cost of OEM. That and the notion that by definition they must be better. Not always the case in the latter.

    TBH a lot of the time the "oh noes, it's spurious" is down to the manufacturers trying to panic us all into paying massively over the odds for their parts and service. I certainly would not like a world where I couldnt buy what I wanted(of equal or superior quality) and put it on my car. When I hear otherwise I sniff manufacturers financial interest and precious little else. Like the chap in the vid said, you can often get the same parts, with diff boxes.

    Motorcheck, it sounds like a leading question into something you've been mulling over. Have you heard much of an issue with spurious substandard parts? Or fake parts? It happens I gather. That needs to be stamped out.

    As for the thread title? What makes a good motor factor? Knowledge, aftersales backup and being good value.

    Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.



  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I worked in a factors for a few years more than a few years ago, a few main dealers used to buy oil filters off them that were not OE or OEM yet they were for the brand of car the dealers were main dealers for ;) A good factors should stock most of what a servicing garage would need on a day to day basis, should have staff that are remotely knowledgable about cars (no ftards that will actually have a look at the listings for spark plugs for a Golf TDi or a water pump for a 68 Beetle). Decent trade discount and reasonable credit terms are also essential. Trade folk don't give a sh1t how much alloy wheels, Hella light kits and stainless exhaust you stock. Location is also all important, the original one I worked in was in a tasty location, they then closed and relocated (well the new one was a seperate business legally but the staff and owner was the same except for the lad that owned a third of the original one that was shafted, splendid chap actually, now has a seemingly thriving factors all to himself) and the new location was bordering on awful, went t1ts up after a couple of years losing money. Wealthy business men, they think they know it all :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 259 ✭✭frank gooding


    Good staff simple as.

    A body behind the counter that know's what they are talking about.

    A bosch plug or pump is just the same without the dealer mark up.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29 dotz


    well said. . . .:)

    staff that know their stuff and management that isnt too concerned with the money making side of it. (not pushing the more expensive parts)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭shamwari


    This concept of OE -v- OEM -v- OES is rather more valid these days that most people think, especially where the components involved are electronic.

    Take O2 sensors. Principe of operation is pretty much the same, however there are some cars that I will fit the genuine manufacturers part instead of an aftermarket on, be it OE or OEM. Honda and Toyota are a case in point.

    A while back, there were a rash of parts manufacturered in the far east which were supposed to be OES replacements for Bosch (airflow meters). They turned out to be horrendously bad and most ended up in the bin within a short space of time.

    Rolling the subject back a few years, the big problem I had was getting proper oil filters for some Nissan jap import diesels. No big deal you would think, however everything spurious (and OES) available lacked a critical internal spring valve thingy which caused the oil pressure to fall at tickover. An OEM part eventually sourced from Blueprint or something like that was the correct one (and short of paying megabucks from Nissan :eek:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,613 ✭✭✭Lord Nikon


    When I had my BMW, almost every spurious MAF meter was crap. The Bosch ones were expensive, but they worked so much better.

    On the other hand, I needed new windscreen wipers and OEM ones were Bosch, I couldn't get wipers anywhere that would fit. I end up spending a fortune on the Bosch ones that I couldn't get anywhere else, and only from the main dealer.

    Back on topic... i try to source most parts from dealers, and pay the premium, and bring it back with the receipt if I have a problem. Some parts i will buy anywhere(halfords/motor factor), bulbs, oil, fuses, lubricants, cleaning stuff.


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