Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

extra flexible glazing silicone

  • 24-09-2010 12:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 659 ✭✭✭


    Can anyone recommend an extra flexible, strong glazing silicone, I live in a very exposed site and the existing silicone has seperated from the glazing on most of my windows.
    Cheers Wazzo.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭kitser


    is it the glass or the frames thats sealed? is it wood, pvc, aluminium? different sealants for different jobs? i use Ceresit neutral cure (low modulus). Not easy to get, but really good stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 776 ✭✭✭Fries-With-That




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭kitser


    i was wondering when someone would mention tech 7. its not all its cracked up to be, is definitely not worth the money they charge for it. but you got to hand it to them, they really marketed it well.:cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 659 ✭✭✭wazzoraybelle


    kitser wrote: »
    is it the glass or the frames thats sealed? is it wood, pvc, aluminium? different sealants for different jobs? i use Ceresit neutral cure (low modulus). Not easy to get, but really good stuff.

    They are wooden windows, The silicone has remained attached to the timber but has separated from the glass. This has only happened on the exterior side of the windows. I'm assuming the problem is caused by the high winds we get here. during storms you can see the glass bending quite a bit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭kitser


    go to a good builders providers and get Bond It or something similar. it will say it on the tube what its used for. after you remove the old silicone, be sure to give the glass a really good clean before you apply the new sealant.
    well done on winning Sam.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    You dont need extra flex silicone you actually need pure silicone....

    Let me explain(all are free to contradict)

    Silicone is flexi in its natural state... In order to help silicone flow and adhere they actually add solvents to it, The effect that adding this solvent has is to cause the silicone to shrink when it dries out...
    Your problem at the moment....


    This is why i never use cheap bathroom seal...Be warned!

    If you want the silicone to adhere well then buy a virtually pure silicone.

    Anything thats fire resistant has to be pure although make sure your not buying a caulk as some fire resistant sealers are actually caulk.

    An example of a great silicone is

    Geocel fireseal. its either code 400 or 700

    I cannot think of any others at the moment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭kitser


    joey the problem with glazing to wood is that the wood expands and contracts with the weather, so you do need a good silicone that allows for expansion. i agree that cheap is cheap and won't do the job. you can nearly always tell what you're getting just by feeling the weight of the tube in your hand. the heavier the better.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    kitser wrote: »
    joey the problem with glazing to wood is that the wood expands and contracts with the weather, so you do need a good silicone that allows for expansion. i agree that cheap is cheap and won't do the job. you can nearly always tell what you're getting just by feeling the weight of the tube in your hand. the heavier the better.


    Sorry and forgive me for coming back but are still incorrect...Mastic is the heaviest and yet its pure sh1t

    You usually can tell by the price and the smell believe it or not...You should find it hard to smell solvent

    As for wood expanding and contracting...Its going to do more expanding and contracting with solvent leaching into it...

    As Forest Gump says "Thats all i have to say about that"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭kitser


    i never mentioned mastic. we're talking silicone. pretty hard to smell test an un opened tube, and decent neutral cure doesn't stink or shrink or harden. price is not definitive if you see how much some places pawn off crap at huge cost. i am a glazer and work with the stuff daily,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    kitser wrote: »
    i never mentioned mastic. we're talking silicone. pretty hard to smell test an un opened tube, and decent neutral cure doesn't stink or shrink or harden. price is not definitive if you see how much some places pawn off crap at huge cost. i am a glazer and work with the stuff daily,

    It does not matter what profession you are I imported it for 10 years. Every time from the geocel brand...I specified it for architects roofers glazers and fire officers.... Does it prove anything...No!

    Mastic is the most common form of "silicone" in use. It is used so widespread that most people that use it consider it to be silicone...Although its not...Why is it the most common.... Becuase it is used on concrete and its cheap...why is it used on concrete... becuase so much is usually required...

    I was making a point that it is the heaviest so your point about weight has no bearing...

    Just to reinforce my point.... A glazer uses 3 different types of silicone...

    1. An acetoxy for the glazing itself... Usually to seal it.

    2. A Neutral When sticking mirrors

    3. A fireseal when installing glass in a firedoor.

    Within all 3 ranges a glazer prob only uses one or 2 different types...

    There is about 50 differerent types excluding brands on the market...

    A good silcone from a bad silicone can be spotted by smell. you dont need to to open it just smell the bottom

    The last test and the most conclusive test is the shrink test...

    Take a bead of glazing silicone and then take a bead of marine silicone...Lay them out in a line... Guess what the glazing silicone shrinks the most...Why> Because it contains the most solvent...

    All provable


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭kitser


    of course it matters what profession i'm in. you sit in an office and look at spec sheets. i'm in the field using the product. it reminds me of the saying; those that can't -teach. Those that can - do.

    i don't know of any glazers who would use a silicone to fix a mirror to a wall. it's not good enough as a stand alone product. i personally use a solvent free, fast curing adhesive. i can stick it and walk away.

    we live in the world of pvc windows generally and use low modulus silicone. we tend to stay away from the nasty smelling ****e. not a good environment for working in, and customers don't want their homes smelling like a chemical factory. just because you sold it, doesn't make you an authority. as for the smell test. some of the cheapest silicones on the market are also the most pungent, so much for the smell test.

    as for the weight bit. in my professional opinion, a good viscous sealant will perform better on expansion and is better for tooling.

    i know how the stuff i use performs. it does the job i demand of it and my customers don't have to call me back for problems concerning the sealants used.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    kitser wrote: »
    of course it matters what profession i'm in. you sit in an office and look at spec sheets. i'm in the field using the product. it reminds me of the saying; those that can't -teach. Those that can - do.

    i don't know of any glazers who would use a silicone to fix a mirror to a wall. it's not good enough as a stand alone product. i personally use a solvent free, fast curing adhesive. i can stick it and walk away.

    we live in the world of pvc windows generally and use low modulus silicone. we tend to stay away from the nasty smelling ****e. not a good environment for working in, and customers don't want their homes smelling like a chemical factory. just because you sold it, doesn't make you an authority. as for the smell test. some of the cheapest silicones on the market are also the most pungent, so much for the smell test.

    as for the weight bit. in my professional opinion, a good viscous sealant will perform better on expansion and is better for tooling.

    i know how the stuff i use performs. it does the job i demand of it and my customers don't have to call me back for problems concerning the sealants used.

    Again this is incorrect. We are having a discussion that is getting us both nowhere. You have an opinion that in my opinion is very incorrect...

    Mirror adhesive is designed to.....

    Viscos silicone is achieved by adding more what.....

    I did not sell it...I specified it...A massive difference...


    Carry on...I the op gets the picture by now.


Advertisement