Skirting questions

garlad

Hi.
Hope to install new skirting in the breakfast room after getting internal thermaboard installed.
Couple of questions:

Should I get mdf or wood?
Tools required?
I understand mitre for external corners, but what is this scribe for internal I hear of?
How to stick to plasterboard with thermaboard behind? Sticks like Sh*t or no more nails or something, or nail or screw?

Cheers

AckwelFoley

Wood tends to be cheaper than MDF if you want just white deal or red.

Use a construction adhesive for the plasterboard walls, get a soft one, some are a little more stiff and dont press easy to the wall.

Coping saw will mitre the internal corners. If the corners are good, you will be able to do a 45 degree cut, but its unlikely that the corners are square...because i didnt build them

Carlow52

i would screw them.

the internal scribe crack is that u cut the profile of the board on the end of the one joining it in the internal corner

garlad

Right,
so scribe is to cut one skirting square.
Then with the other, cut it so it fits over the other one?
I presume this means cutting using the skirting mould shape as a template of some kind?
And is this what a coping saw can do? Cut neat shapes

antiskeptic

garlad wrote: »

Should I get mdf or wood?

I'd get the cheapest. If getting wood, check that the lengths are straight and flat - trying to attach 'cupped' boards is a pain and getting neat mitres (external or internal) impossible.

Tools required?

I'd use:

- an ordinary wood saw (with 'fine' teeth will give a nicer finish but rougher, general purpose saw will do if sharp and fed onto the work gently)

- Evo stick panel adhesive/silicone gun. You'll get this in a builders suppliers. It's cheaper than no more nails and pretty soft when fresh.

- a mitre box to allow you to cut internal and external mitres. I'm assuming you're using something like 4" skirting for which cheap plastic mitre box will be easily available.

I understand mitre for external corners, but what is this scribe for internal I hear of?

More trouble than it's worth tbh.

How to stick to plasterboard with thermaboard behind? Sticks like Sh*t or no more nails or something, or nail or screw?

Assuming your walls and skirting is flat, a blob of glue about the size of a 2 euro coin (and maybe 3 euro coins thick) every 5 inches or so alternating them to an inch above the skirting centre line and an inch below the centreline. This will allow you to press hard without glue appearing above/below the skirting board. The idea is to have lots of contact points rather than a few big blobs

You now need something heavy that you can place against the board to stop it parting from the wall until it's dried a little. Saucepans filled with water, bricks, sleeping children ...that kind of thing..

garlad

Cheers for the info

gsxr1

If you use cheap timber skirting and glue it will look terrible in a few months and the board will cup . you will more than likely have to redecorate to fix it.

Since you have used glue and no mechanical fixings there is nothing to stop it cupping .

the glue will grip the timber and wall, but will tear the plaster or paint of the wall. This is a common problem . Especially in longer lengths.

MDF is the best skirting. It will not warp of twist . And takes paint much better. If you can get it the right price , its a hands down winner compared to deal skirting.

I would glue(gripfill or gunophene)http://www.jastimber.co.uk/products/building-materials/building-adhesives/gripfill-panel-adhesive-350ml-product.html as stated but also use screws or nails long enough to reach the studs behind. Find the studs before you start and mark on the wall or ground taking note of any pipes or wires.
be quick the the panel adhesive as it forms a skin very quickly and does not stick well. Avoid Pink Grip. its sh1te

screw/bottom top and bottom or steel nail on block walls.
make all screw or nail hole fillable by screwing past the surface or punching in nails.

jack of all

gsxr1 wrote: »

Avoid Pink Grip. its sh1te

Sorry to hijack the thread but I bought a cartridge of Pink Grip for a job last week, haven't opened it yet; I've only ever used DAP panel adhesive or gunoprene in the past, is Pink Grip really that bad? Just curious....

AckwelFoley

jack of all wrote: »

Sorry to hijack the thread but I bought a cartridge of Pink Grip for a job last week, haven't opened it yet; I've only ever used DAP panel adhesive or gunoprene in the past, is Pink Grip really that bad? Just curious....

Meah, depends on application.

Ive used alot of it, but not on skirting, tends to not be as strong if i remember correctly..

I buy the panel adhesive by the box (25) and tend to stick to the one type. Avoid the solvent free stuff, better for the environment, but its dirt

CJhaughey

I don't know about you guys versions of scribed internal corners, but when I do a scribed internal corner I do it like this:
Make your two 45º cuts with your mitre saw(manual or power) and then lay the piece of timber flat and use a coping saw to cut the material away from the bevel, cut the bevel off but leave a thin (3-4mm) piece of bevel in place to touch.
You should also leave a bit of material on top to cover the joint but a bit of painters mate will fill the gap.
Doing this allows the front of the joint to close and not be pushed out by the rear of the pieces touching before the front closes.
Think of the rear of the joint being hollow and just the front edges touching.