window sill help wanted

oflynno

hi there

i am building a garage and i'm up to window sill level at the moment

it is a 4" cavity wall,insulated

i have it in my head that the sill sits on the outside leaf,close the cavity and stops at the inside leaf,am i right?

do i use 18" dpc under the sill and fold it up onto 3" bricks/soaps on the inner leaf?

do i also use wall insulation to close the cavity under the sill too?

help me out please if you can as i am giving it all a go,so far,so good

De.Lite.Touch

oflynno wrote: »

hi there

i am building a garage and i'm up to window sill level at the moment

it is a 4" cavity wall,insulated

i have it in my head that the sill sits on the outside leaf,close the cavity and stops at the inside leaf,am i right?

do i use 18" dpc under the sill and fold it up onto 3" bricks/soaps on the inner leaf?

do i also use wall insulation to close the cavity under the sill too?

help me out please if you can as i am giving it all a go,so far,so good

If you can't detail a sill how do you know its "so far so good" with the foundations, slab and DPM? Why are you insulating a garage?

De.Lite.Touch.

sinnerboy

Purchase this

Poor Uncle Tom

You may also get some information here or you could do a search, there are a few threads on this already...:)

oflynno

De.Lite.Touch wrote: »

If you can't detail a sill how do you know its "so far so good" with the foundations, slab and DPM? Why are you insulating a garage?

De.Lite.Touch.

i worked for 18 months on a building site,pouring foundations,and doing it all upto floor level,so that much i know

i also worked with a blocklayer as a labourer and he taught me the basics of how to build a block wall on edge,straight,level and plumb,wall ties and insulation.

we built our house here by direct labour and i tended the blocklayer too,so some stuff i remember and some i took no notice of at all

i am insulating the garage as i want to use it for a workshop without the damp problems of cavity block walls and i will have a heater in it,so i want to insulate it to keep the cold out and the heat in

its a 32' x 24' garage

oflynno

sinnerboy wrote: »

Purchase this

i actually have the version from 1998 and was wondering are things still the same in that department

De.Lite.Touch

oflynno wrote: »

i worked for 18 months on a building site,pouring foundations,and doing it all upto floor level,so that much i know

i also worked with a blocklayer as a labourer and he taught me the basics of how to build a block wall on edge,straight,level and plumb,wall ties and insulation.

we built our house here by direct labour and i tended the blocklayer too,so some stuff i remember and some i took no notice of at all

i am insulating the garage as i want to use it for a workshop without the damp problems of cavity block walls and i will have a heater in it,so i want to insulate it to keep the cold out and the heat in

its a 32' x 24' garage

Foundations have to suit the ground bearing and wall width.
The place you worked might was prolly different to where you are.

Your roof has a short span of almost 8M - that's an industrial unit.
That means you need a well-designed roof truss and ring beam.

That's a huge garage - you could later convert it to a small house.
If you're going do this, all your details must be done right for later on.

Most houses have walls to prop off for cut timber roofs.
They also have internal walls to buttress the outer.

Talk to a good architectural technician and an engineer.

Two questions:

Who is signing off on the work?
Do you have permission?

De.Lite.Touch

De.Lite.Touch

oflynno wrote: »

i actually have the version from 1998 and was wondering are things still the same in that department

No.

The regulations seem to change every year.

Take a look on the Environment website.

De.Lite.Touch.

mossfort

oflynno wrote: »

hi there

i am building a garage and i'm up to window sill level at the moment

it is a 4" cavity wall,insulated

i have it in my head that the sill sits on the outside leaf,close the cavity and stops at the inside leaf,am i right?

do i use 18" dpc under the sill and fold it up onto 3" bricks/soaps on the inner leaf?

do i also use wall insulation to close the cavity under the sill too?

help me out please if you can as i am giving it all a go,so far,so good

you seem to have a good idea already of how its done .
if you have 80mm from your outer leaf to the outer face of your cill it will be fine. 18" dpc under the cill will be fine and use a 6" or 4" soapbar on the inner leaf to level up to the cill level depending on the size of cill.
just cut your insulation flush with the block work your cill will be sitting on before fitting.

oflynno

De.Lite.Touch wrote: »

Foundations have to suit the ground bearing and wall width.
The place you worked might was prolly different to where you are


Your roof has a short span of almost 8M - that's an industrial unit.
That means you need a well-designed roof truss and ring beam.


That's a huge garage - you could later convert it to a small house.
If you're going do this, all your details must be done right for later on.

Most houses have walls to prop off for cut timber roofs.
They also have internal walls to buttress the outer.

Talk to a good architectural technician and an engineer.

Two questions:

Who is signing off on the work?

Do you have permission?


De.Lite.Touch

The place you worked might was prolly different to where you are

We built the house 6 years ago and are using the same width and depth of foundations as the house,including deadwork and all as it was needed.

Your roof has a short span of almost 8M - that's an industrial unit.
That means you need a well-designed roof truss and ring beam.

The roof will be the same as the house,timber rafters and slates to match

That's a huge garage - you could later convert it to a small house.
If you're going do this, all your details must be done right for later on.

I have no plans to convert it to a house but it is being built to the same spec as the house,hence cavity wall insulated,insulated floor,proper plumbing and double glazed windows,same as the house

Who is signing off on the work?
the engineer that did the house is signing off on the garage.the guy that bulit the deadwork was crap and 2 walls were out of square,the engineer noticed this.i knocked the 2 walls and fired the blocklayer,over the weekend i built the deadwork walls again square.the engineer checked it and told me to build the first course of blocks on floor level when its all ready.he came back and checked it and was happy all was square,plumb and level,i just cracked on with it the last couple of weeks

Do you have permission?
Yes.of course.originally we had planning with the ouse to build a 18x12 foot garage.while at a friends house,i saw the actual size this was and decided it was too small for me to do my messing with the odd car in.

oflynno

mossfort wrote: »

you seem to have a good idea already of how its done .
if you have 80mm from your outer leaf to the outer face of your cill it will be fine. 18" dpc under the cill will be fine and use a 6" or 4" soapbar on the inner leaf to level up to the cill level depending on the size of cill.
just cut your insulation flush with the block work your cill will be sitting on before fitting.

might advice there,thank you

De.Lite.Touch

oflynno wrote: »

(snip)
The roof will be the same as the house,timber rafters and slates to match
(snip)

Okay, what I meant was that houses sometimes take support for their roofs in the mid space from internal walls.
If you have a clear span with no internal supports you need to make sure that the roof is designed to span the whole 8M.

Internal walls in houses give bracing for the external walls.
You may need stiffeners in the walls - "windposts" some people call them

Yes.of course.originally we had planning with the ouse to build a 18x12 foot garage.while at a friends house,i saw the actual size this was and decided it was too small for me to do my messing with the odd car in.

Okay, what I meant was that making a garage bigger than 25sqm needs permission.
Enlarging the garage from 18' x 12' to 32' x 24' will probably need permission.

Sorry to hear about the blockie - half the guys out there at the moment don't seem to have any time served.
The good thing is you have an engineer on the job.

:-)


De.Lite.Touch

oflynno

De.Lite.Touch wrote: »

Okay, what I meant was that making a garage bigger than 25sqm needs permission.
Enlarging the garage from 18' x 12' to 32' x 24' will probably need permission.


:-)


De.Lite.Touch

i have got the original planning AND new planning for the larger garage,so its all above board

De.Lite.Touch

oflynno wrote: »

i have got the original planning AND new planning for the larger garage,so its all above board

Good man - you're a star amongst the posters to some of the boards I read