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Cure for flinching

  • 27-08-2010 8:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,154 ✭✭✭


    Whats the best cure for this alement ,i'm shooting a Blaser .270 without a can,and shooting 3"-4" groups because of this.I'm shooting 1" groups with brothers/friends .308 and a 25-06.I'm definatly flinching as i had a guy watch me today and randomly chamber blanks as to see my shot reaction.He shot a 1/4" group ,so def not the gun.Suggestions welcome


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 793 ✭✭✭declan1980


    try practising with a rimfire rifle. if you geet used to shooting a rimfire without flinching it will transfer over to firing the 270


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,154 ✭✭✭arrowloopboy


    declan1980 wrote: »
    try practising with a rimfire rifle. if you geet used to shooting a rimfire without flinching it will transfer over to firing the 270

    The .308 and 25-06 are centrefires :confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 793 ✭✭✭declan1980


    maybe you're just anticipating the shot which is causing you to flinch


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    Dry firing, buckets of it, and practising with a rimfire. Wear ear protection for practising with the .270. You'll never notice it while hunting, so that'll sort you out. It's not a big kicker, so if you wear ear protection and do plenty of practice with a rimfire and dry-firing, you'll be grand. Keep up the practice of an occasional session of mixing snap caps with loaded rounds to monitor your progress. You should get it sorted quickly enough. Main thing is to maintain your focus on the crosshairs on the target and squeeze, almost subconsciously.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭GixxerThou


    Try Norma 110grain V max.. much less recoil than most .270 ammo + ear muffs when shootin paper.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    Where i come from "ya get 2 for flinching :D "

    Seriously, flinching in my experience can be stopped if you hold the rifle for a few seconds after the shot as form as you held it prior to the shot, but if it's the bang causing you the problems did you consider a moderator?

    i was shooting 10 years before I got my first mod and I deffo think i have improved since, easier to concentrate without poxy earmuffs
    my 2 cents ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,920 ✭✭✭Dusty87


    Where i come from "ya get 2 for flinching :D "

    I was thinking the same thing, that film with River Phoenix, Stand By Me


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 414 ✭✭kieran1141


    Where i come from "ya get 2 for flinching :D "

    Seriously, flinching in my experience can be stopped if you hold the rifle for a few seconds after the shot as form as you held it prior to the shot, but if it's the bang causing you the problems did you consider a moderator?

    i was shooting 10 years before I got my first mod and I deffo think i have improved since, easier to concentrate without poxy earmuffs
    my 2 cents ;)
    tack is right, i used to flinch with 220 swift waiting for bang got mod on 220, 223 and 243 never even think about it now,my shot has improved 10 fold, have fired my friends 308 with no mod now and dosent bother me, a few years with the moderator on has realy helped me steady up, mabey thats just me.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    kieran1141 wrote: »
    tack is right, i used to flinch with 220 swift waiting for bang got mod on 220, 223 and 243 never even think about it now,my shot has improved 10 fold, have fired my friends 308 with no mod now and dosent bother me, a few years with the moderator on has realy helped me steady up, mabey thats just me.

    I do believe mod shooting is much nicer to do also.
    If only they could make them a bit smaller :)

    I have a mod on the .308 and .223 now and I'd never take them off.
    (except to clean of course)

    I was never bad at flinching but The Swedish Mauser with steel but-plate was not very forgiving :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    I do believe mod shooting is much nicer to do also.
    If only they could make them a bit smaller :)

    I have a mod on the .308 and .223 now and I'd never take them off.
    (except to clean of course)

    I was never bad at flinching but The Swedish Mauser with steel but-plate was not very forgiving :D

    I hope you don't mean you're storing the rifles with the mods on, or all that work on re-crowning your barrels is going to be worthless in short order.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    I hope you don't mean you're storing the rifles with the mods on, or all that work on re-crowning your barrels is going to be worthless in short order.

    Cleaning is just before storing. the VSSF II is stainless,so is the ASE mod

    The VTR is steel & also the Reflex so I'm very careful with her.
    Water Dependant 40 is a great moisture repellent.

    On a side note anyone ever use PTFE Tape on there thread to stop loosening mos in the field?

    It also would inhibit corrosion from metal to metal contact being reduced?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,004 ✭✭✭tfox


    Cleaning is just before storing. the VSSF II is stainless,so is the ASE mod

    The VTR is steel & also the Reflex so I'm very careful with her.
    Water Dependant 40 is a great moisture repellent.

    On a side note anyone ever use PTFE Tape on there thread to stop loosening mos in the field?

    It also would inhibit corrosion from metal to metal contact being reduced?

    I'l think you'l fine it's Water Displacement 40 (40th mixture that worked) ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    tfox wrote: »
    I'l think you'l fine it's Water Displacement 40 (40th mixture that worked) ;)

    I do apologize Sir, you are correct Water Displacement!

    Any uptake on whether PTFE tape would be any good on a thread, it can handle up to 270deg.
    I was thinking of giving it a go on the VTR. We use it a lot in work, it would be cleaner to use than copper grease or similar.
    Most corrosion occurs where two dissimilar metals touch, ie the thread of the mod and the barrel being composed of different types of steel.

    Just an idea, still needing research ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    You didn't answer the question clearly. Do you leave the mods on in storage? If so, you'll ruin the rifle.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    You didn't answer the question clearly. Do you leave the mods on in storage? If so, you'll ruin the rifle.

    Yes and no!

    one on the other off!
    They are never in storage long, I had the .308 out today and I'll have her out wed as well.
    The .223 was out the day before.

    The .223 has had a mod on 3 years now with no damage what so ever.
    However as the .308 is now raw steel I leave mod off.

    I never ruined any of my firearms in 13 years of owning firearms :cool:
    I have made some of them better though;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 414 ✭✭kieran1141


    store my rifles with mods on, never screw them on full in storage, if use 1 of them sprey wd40 on mod leave over night and 3-4 screw back on rifle and clean and oil treads, never had a problem, ase utra and reflex t8, about twice a year soak t8 in half diesel and petrol over night, have it 5 years and looks new shot of wd40 and off again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    How do you get the diesel petrol mix out?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 414 ✭✭kieran1141


    just give it a good shake from top and bottom, leave it stand over night,rest will evaporate, wipe outside with a bit of 3in 1 not to leave finger marks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 166 ✭✭emcor


    practice follow through with another person to watch you and tell when its happening.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    Have to say, took the .25-06 out for the first time in a long while today and I did catch myself flinching once after a good few shots. Goes to show that you need to pay religious attention, even with light kicking rifles, so as not to flinch. Hadn't been practising nearly enough with that rifle. All is ready to go for wednesday now though, will do a lot more shooting over the deer season, hopefully.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    Have to say, took the .25-06 out for the first time in a long while today and I did catch myself flinching once after a good few shots. Goes to show that you need to pay religious attention, even with light kicking rifles, so as not to flinch. Hadn't been practising nearly enough with that rifle. All is ready to go for wednesday now though, will do a lot more shooting over the deer season, hopefully.

    That gets me back to (rightly or wrongly) Varminting.
    I've been using my .308 all summer as well as my .223.
    No flinching at all as a result.
    A 200yard headshot bunny is a good starting point for head shooting deer (as a small target sharpens you up)
    If you can shoot bunnies out to 200 in the head consistantly IMvHO you are ready for the next level.

    I hope Bambi is ready :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 152 ✭✭jimbrowning


    Cleaning is just before storing. the VSSF II is stainless,so is the ASE mod

    The VTR is steel & also the Reflex so I'm very careful with her.
    Water Dependant 40 is a great moisture repellent.

    On a side note anyone ever use PTFE Tape on there thread to stop loosening mos in the field?

    It also would inhibit corrosion from metal to metal contact being reduced?
    how dose the vssf look and feel with mod fitted. i,m thinkin of gettin mine done but think it might and up very long and heavy. there not light to start with. how much did it cost you to get done?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    how dose the vssf look and feel with mod fitted. i,m thinkin of gettin mine done but think it might and up very long and heavy. there not light to start with. how much did it cost you to get done?

    Honestly, they are a little front heavy.
    However the accuracy makes up for that.
    €95 to get threaded and crowned.
    I still us mine out after rabbits during the day with the mod on.

    If you don't mind it being a little long.
    Saying that a guy down in Kerry has a VSSF II .22/250 AFAIK he got 4"chopped off hi barrel and then got it threaded and re-crowned for a very small difference in accuracy.

    If you are into long range bunny stuff I'd leave 26" & get a mod on. The ASE ULTRA S7 Stainless looks like they were made for the Remington barrel too!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 152 ✭✭jimbrowning


    Honestly, they are a little front heavy.
    However the accuracy makes up for that.
    €95 to get threaded and crowned.
    I still us mine out after rabbits during the day with the mod on.

    If you don't mind it being a little long.
    Saying that a guy down in Kerry has a VSSF II .22/250 AFAIK he got 4"chopped off hi barrel and then got it threaded and re-crowned for a very small difference in accuracy.

    If you are into long range bunny stuff I'd leave 26" & get a mod on. The ASE ULTRA S7 Stainless looks like they were made for the Remington barrel too!!
    so how much extra dose it add 2 the length of the barrel if i dont cut it.? like the sound of making it shorter but would be scared to do it incase accuracy is lessend. cant put it back on if it did. any1 on here ever have it done???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    so how much extra dose it add 2 the length of the barrel if i dont cut it.? like the sound of making it shorter but would be scared to do it incase accuracy is lessend. cant put it back on if it did. any1 on here ever have it done???

    I think it was sikastag on a .22/250



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    how dose the vssf look and feel with mod fitted. i,m thinkin of gettin mine done but think it might and up very long and heavy. there not light to start with.

    Like Tack says, they will be long and heavy, but accurate! Shot one many moons ago. Thing to watch out for is when on your shoulder they want to fall backwards.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    Cutting the barrel isn't going to reduce accuracy provided it's properly crowned and finished at the end. In fact, you may find it improved, since likely the cutting job will result in a nicer crown than the factory gun. The only thing that requires length is velocity, and since nobody here is going to be shooting game out to the distance a bullet might go trans-sonic, it's not relevant. For any .22 centrefire, I'd do the same thing described with a varmint build, cut it to 22", maybe 23 if I didn't want to use a mod. Handling is everything in a field gun.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    johngalway wrote: »
    Like Tack says, they will be long and heavy, but accurate! Shot one many moons ago. Thing to watch out for is when on your shoulder they want to fall backwards.

    I've a mod on the VSSF II 3 or more years now.
    I have to say if i did not think that a slight bit of weight was worth the extra accuracy I would have sold her years ago.

    I'd also recommend a Karsten cheek riser €57 delivered and you are waaaaaay more comfortable shooting!
    Just a little more info on ASE :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,154 ✭✭✭arrowloopboy


    I'm all fixed :D:D:D
    I mixture of a friend loading the gun ,sometimes with no round,and dry firing has fixed me,this has worked really well:cool:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    I'm all fixed :D:D:D
    I mixture of a friend loading the gun ,sometimes with no round,and dry firing has fixed me,this has worked really well:cool:

    Just keep being aware of it. It's an extremely easy thing to slip back into, particularly when you're distracted by the target while hunting, so just remember to keep focused. Congrats for now though. Have a good season as a result.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    A few handy tips for the field

    http://remington.com/pages/news-and-resources/videos/practice-for-hunting.aspx

    I've never used a monopod, unless a fencing post counts :)

    The vid shows a relatively loose sling, I use a tight sling, the raised elbow locks but of rifle into shoulder which should stop you flinching too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 940 ✭✭✭kerryman12


    practicing is the key IMO. I will admit I do not do enought with my .243 but over the past two years I am shooting it more and also with the .22lr now the amount of overall time shooting is significantly higher. The result is that I am better with the .243.

    Tackleberry

    On the thread tape - I dont know, great help eh. It doesnt sound like a good idea to me. I have a P8. I take it apart once or twice a year clean. On reassembly I apply a small amount of grease to the threas and an good cover to all O-ring then I leave it good. I stored it on for a while but after ready a few posts and thinking it over myself I now store the rifle with the mod off.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    kerryman12 wrote: »
    practicing is the key IMO. I will admit I do not do enought with my .243 but over the past two years I am shooting it more and also with the .22lr now the amount of overall time shooting is significantly higher. The result is that I am better with the .243.

    Tackleberry

    On the thread tape - I dont know, great help eh. It doesnt sound like a good idea to me. I have a P8. I take it apart once or twice a year clean. On reassembly I apply a small amount of grease to the threas and an good cover to all O-ring then I leave it good. I stored it on for a while but after ready a few posts and thinking it over myself I now store the rifle with the mod off.

    PTFE tape is designed to be robust and non reactive.
    I am currently using wd40, however for long term storage prob some copper grease (as i have a tub of it :D)
    I find actually that most guys who suffer from recoil use .22lr's and get into bad habits of holding rifle lightly.

    I learned to shoot on a 12gauge Baikal for most parts so recoil was the norm or me.
    As I said, I have 2 mods one stainless, one steel. The steel one is stored off.
    The stainless has been on board heading for 4 years now and no issues.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 940 ✭✭✭kerryman12


    fair point on the .22lr I did have to correct myself when I got the .243 out again, but overall it is of benefit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,399 ✭✭✭dwighet


    Find a mate with a heavy kickn rifle ie. 30-06 ,300 wm 7mmrem mag,270 and try to shoot an inch group...over and over...Good follow through is a key factor. squeeze the trigger and do not blink whilst taking the shot and watch the target for a good 2 seconds after the shot.....do not blink..If you concentrate on not blinking that should take your mind away from flinching.....
    Then go back and shoot your own....

    Flinching is a mental thing....
    The blunt end of the rifle will never hurt you...
    Its the pointy end ya gotta worry about


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