Non-Integrated Headset leaves a Fork Gap

RoubX

Hi all, I'm looking for some advise on fitting a fork on a non-integrated headset. While waiting for my new bike I got a Ribble frame with fork to tide me over. I thought that would be fine cause I could use the fork on my new bike in the Winter (it's got mudguard eyes). I got the new bike and it has a nice Chris King nothreadset 1 1/8" (non-integrated). The fork has the Ribble integrated headset crown race.

My problem is when I put the fork into the Chris King headset the fit is not flush and I end up with a gap of a few mills between the headset and the fork. The Chris King crown race supplied won't fit the steering column. Mind you, the "integrated" crown race is connecting with the bearings and there's smooth movement. Is the gap a problem? I will be getting a fork like the Reynolds Ouzo Pro, when I scrape up the cash, but can I use this safely in the meantime?

Lumen

Are you sure you've fitted the crown race properly?

In my experience it takes a fair bit of violence to get it seated properly. Obviously you need to make sure it's the right size.

Morgan

Why won't the CK crown race fit? It's not surprising there's a gap if you're using the wrong crown race.

at1withmyself

RoubX wrote: »

Hi all, I'm looking for some advise on fitting a fork on a non-integrated headset. While waiting for my new bike I got a Ribble frame with fork to tide me over. I thought that would be fine cause I could use the fork on my new bike in the Winter (it's got mudguard eyes). I got the new bike and it has a nice Chris King nothreadset 1 1/8" (non-integrated). The fork has the Ribble integrated headset crown race.

My problem is when I put the fork into the Chris King headset the fit is not flush and I end up with a gap of a few mills between the headset and the fork. The Chris King crown race supplied won't fit the steering column. Mind you, the "integrated" crown race is connecting with the bearings and there's smooth movement. Is the gap a problem? I will be getting a fork like the Reynolds Ouzo Pro, when I scrape up the cash, but can I use this safely in the meantime?

Yes it is very dangerous as there is a lot of stress on this area of the bike so if its not fitted correctly your risking causing more damage to you and/or the bike.

My advise - take the fork and the correct race down to you LBS and ask for some assistance fitting it, they should have the corect tools to get it on in a few minutes. As Lumen says they are a nightmare to fit as they are supposed to be tight but with the right tools it only takes a few minutes and shouldn't cost more then a few euro.

RoubX

The Ribble crown race is a thin split one so I can easily remove it and see the base of the steerer. The aluminium column has extra diameter towards, but it "buldges" out a bit on the last inch or so towards the carbon forks. It's this extra diameter that the Chris King race wouldn't be able to slip over, or would it? To do it would need some brute force. But the Chris King crown race is a strange shape indeed and it a bit tricky to see how it could be installed flush.

I'm thinking it would be better to post some pics and diameters. In truth I was hoping the Ribble crown race would do because then the fork could be transferred between bikes. But if that's pushing it the so be it.

at1withmyself

RoubX wrote: »

The Ribble crown race is a thin split one so I can easily remove it and see the base of the steerer. The aluminium column has extra diameter towards, but it "buldges" out a bit on the last inch or so towards the carbon forks. It's this extra diameter that the Chris King race wouldn't be able to slip over, or would it? To do it would need some brute force. But the Chris King crown race is a strange shape indeed and it a bit tricky to see how it could be installed flush.

I'm thinking it would be better to post some pics and diameters. In truth I was hoping the Ribble crown race would do because then the fork could be transferred between bikes. But if that's pushing it the so be it.

By your description it sounds like its right, some of the race crowns do come with a split alright but most have to be pressed on and so 'brute' force is required. I would still recommend the LBS route for a job like this, you'll save yourself time and money in the long run as the tools are not cheap:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=27040

Lumen

RoubX wrote: »

The Ribble crown race is a thin split one so I can easily remove it and see the base of the steerer. The aluminium column has extra diameter towards, but it "buldges" out a bit on the last inch or so towards the carbon forks

This is normal, I think. It shouldn't just slip on.

With my Easton forks, I had to hammer a length of pipe on the race to get it seated properly. I didn't have a pipe, so used a section of my Park tools repair stand.

There is a "proper" way to do this, which involves holding one of the forks in your hand (in mid air) whilst you hammer away. You must not put the forks on a hard surface.

I've seen Mr Skeffington do this with my Scott Addict forks too. It is very painful to watch, the first time.

Again, a prerequisite of all this is that the race is the correct diameter.

RoubX

Right, so check the diameter and then hand it into the LBS. I've done some downright stupid things to components in the past, but even I balk at holding the forks in the air while I hit a pipe with a hammer :eek::)

But, if the current race connects with the bearings and not the outer casing of the headset, and accepting it has a gap, with maybe a ring of grease to stop crap penetrating, is that good enough to leave alone?

at1withmyself

RoubX wrote: »

Right, so check the diameter and then hand it into the LBS. I've done some downright stupid things to components in the past, but even I balk at holding the forks in the air while I hit a pipe with a hammer :eek::)

But, if the current race connects with the bearings and not the outer casing of the headset, and accepting it has a gap, with maybe a ring of grease to stop crap penetrating, is that good enough to leave alone?

No

RoubX

LBS or Pipe and hammer it is!
thanks for the advice, I know you're right, it just didn't look or feel right anyway.

RoubX

Checked and the fork is integrated specific. Mortified. Anyway, live and learn. I've ordered this as a replacement fork. Nice that it has 49mm drop, saves me "forking" out (sorry) for long reach brakes.
http://www.shinybikes.com/bikes/enigma-etape-audax-carbon-forks.html

LBS will be recruited for fitting race and cutting the carbon steerer.

Lumen

Are you absolutely sure about this "integrated-specific fork" thing?

Have a read of this thread. It suggests that the only difference with "integrated headset forks" is cosmetic.

RoubX

Interresting thread alright. I haven't actually placed the order for new fork so I will do a bit more investigating tonight. Thanks Again.

Morgan

RoubX wrote: »

Checked and the fork is integrated specific.

Lumen wrote: »

It suggests that the only difference with "integrated headset forks" is cosmetic.

Like he says - the only difference with an "integrated" fork is that it looks a bit more seamless with the frame. There's no difference in terms of steerer, crown race etc.

It'll be a standard 1 1/8" steerer tube so the crown race just needs to be pressed/tapped on.

RoubX

I got out the callipers and checked the diameter of the column and it matches the specs so I'll get on that next week. What threw me was I thought/hoped that I could use the existing integrated headset crown race on the bike with the new non-integrated headset. The answer seems to be you can't. Can you swap between two bikes of the same headset type (not exact make) no problem? Or is it a very specific thing?