g&g raider problem

touge_drift

hey guys first dredded problem with my aeg its a g&g gr15 raider short stock version.

firstly what battery should i be using? the shop i bought it from(not a trader here) recomended a 9.6 volt 1600 mah cranestock type and i was told today that i should be using a 8.4.
its been working perfectly for ages until today after a few games it sounded like the motor was sheering the gear box. it sounded like a grinding/sheering coming from the gearbox and the gun wouldnt fire.

my ideas are either:

(1)battery was over charged and possibly put motor into an overdrive type of cycle, as the 9.6 has worked great since day 1.

(2) the 9.6 is to powerful for the internals

(3)gremlins got inside it and messed it up.

has this happened anyone else before with a simular gun? could an extra 1.2 volts do that to a gearbox?

my options are now open it up for a look, try see if the gears are damaged or the motor and try a lower power battery, or do what i was going to do eventually and upgrade everything i just didnt plan on doing it so soon.

i like the rof from the 9.6 so would like to keep that and im looking for suggestions asto what id need. i.e bigger bearings, new gears etc??
i was looking at a thread last night here somewhere which had good advice but most of it went over my head.

thanks guys.

Leftyflip

Sounds like stripped gears or piston, G&G's can easily take a 9.6V battery, they're very well made and usually ultra reliable. Unfortunately you may need a new piston or gearset.

touge_drift

thats what i was thinking it should handle a 9.6 no problem as its not a clone. a few guys on site today were tellinbg me they only use 8.4v's as 9.6 was to powerful.

im budgeting for replacing parts but was thinking seen as the gearbox will be opened, i may aswell upgrade the rest while im at it. i suppose i wont really know until i take it apart. im not the most experenced at this stuff but am a fan of trying things myself. is there any online manuals of the g&g parts that i can use as a reference to taking it apart and back together again?

Leftyflip

www.mechbox.com

This site is great, it was very informative and helpful for me and many others.

touge_drift

cheers for the lefty will report back when i take it apart tomorow.

i was looking at airsofteire they are selling ultimate parts and complete gearboxes? are they any use as a brand? good quality/endurance?

the complete gearbox they have is 180 but i think id rather keep my own shell and just change the insides

Leftyflip

To be honest thats the first I've heard of them.
Imo, you sould only replace the parts that need to be replaced, ie piston or gears (God, I'll look an awful fool if it isn't one of those two!) Try a Prometheus or Deep Fire piston, they're meant to be great! For gears, the G&P ones are good.

touge_drift

Leftyflip wrote: »

To be honest thats the first I've heard of them.
Imo, you sould only replace the parts that need to be replaced, ie piston or gears (God, I'll look an awful fool if it isn't one of those two!) Try a Prometheus or Deep Fire piston, they're meant to be great! For gears, the G&P ones are good.

we'll all know more when i open it up i suppose(i'll take pictures and post them up)

not to sound rude or anything but why do you say that? is it sort of like the old saying if its not broke dont fix it type of thing? or something else?

Leftyflip

I just don't see the point in upgrading a G&G gearbox fully, compared to other brands, I've had one G&G on my desk, with poor compression after a "service", internally everything was mint. Although if you feel you want to upgrade everything, don't let my thoughts stop you!

touge_drift

i see your point i was only thinking of doing it to make sure the problem didnt happen again, but no one can be sure that wont happen to any aeg.

also i was on the g&g website and it recomends a 9.6 1400 for mine. im using a 1600 in mine.

Leftyflip

The Mah just means that it has a larger capacity (i.e. it'll last longer) nothing to do with the motor spinning faster or slower, well until it runs out...

DeBurca

Before you go taking the gearbox apart, it is worth your while to check the motor height
If the motor is not engaging properly with the bevel gear it makes a bit of a racket
You need a Allen key 1.5mm I think, insert it into the screw at the centre of the pistol grip and tighten do not over tighten
Now unscrew it 1and a half full turns (540 degrees) and fire it in semi if it sounds better then problem solved, you just need to fine tune it
While firing in full auto adjust the screw while listening to the sound of the gearbox, you will hit a point where it sounds the sweetest somewhere between 1 and 2 turns from full in your motor height is now set
If it still sounds rough after adjusting the motor height then it is as Lefty said piston and or gears stripped

PS all G&Gs can handle a 9.6v battery no problem

touge_drift

we done that today on site and it fixed it slightly a few rounds later and it was back to the same again. im going to re do it though to see if it fixes it hoping it works.

i just fear the damage has already been done.

btw cheers all for the reeassurance on the battery, has marked one check off my list

touge_drift

dont laugh now, seriously....

but before i go at it with the allen key Deburca, how tight is to tight? like to the point where it wont turn anymore? or that i have to use force to turn it?

Leftyflip

When it starts to make high pitched grinding noises.

DeBurca

touge_drift wrote: »

dont laugh now, seriously....

but before i go at it with the allen key Deburca, how tight is to tight? like to the point where it wont turn anymore? or that i have to use force to turn it?

It should turn with very little force, when you feel it increase that is the time to start turning it back 1 and a half turns

touge_drift

small update in the progress i popped the motor out and it seems fine. im jot sure if you'd call it the pinion gear but the output part to the gearbox is perfect not a scratch and i looked up inside to the gearbox and it seemed perfect to no sheered gears.
im going to take the rest apart and inspect the internals next

touge_drift

have the aeg in half now and took the barrel and hop unit out. noticed the hop unit said gr16 on the side. is there any difference between a gr16 and my gr15? there essentially the same gun modelling the m4/16 series. cleaned that up and inspected for damage, and all is good.

some pics so far:
the motor




the teeth look ok on that to me.

nicely cleaned hop unit



now heres where im kind of stuck how do i get the gearbox out of the reciever?



im watching a youtube tutorial of a m4 take down as a guide but im not fully sure.
it apperas ive no fuse in the aeg, is this a normal g&g thing to do or would this be the shop?

after all this i may do a write up/how to for assembly/dis-assembly of the aeg and how to fix/clean the parts.

DeBurca

First you need to remove the mag catch remove the screw in the centre of the release button, the catch comes out the outer side and don’t lose the spring
Next take out the 2 screws inside the grip and the screw inside the stock tube
Lastly push out the small 3mm pin just above the trigger
You should now be able to remove the gearbox

Before you start the remove the gearbox from the frame I would caution you against doing so
On offence meant but if you are having trouble at this early stage then I think that the overall strip repair and reassembly may well be beyond you ability and the Blowback G&G gearbox is not the easiest to work on

Leftyflip

That blowback unit is pretty fiddly to get out and not the most entertaining thing to put back in. If memory serves me right, you have to take off a circlip, remove one side of the faux bolt then wiggle the other out, then carefully remove the rest of the assembly.

touge_drift

ok got the gearbox out with ease.. cheers for that guide deburca, felt stupid whern i realised how easy it was.

there 5 alen key bolts around the gearbox is it as simple as this to open it up? or once i open it will everything fly out at me?

Leftyflip

touge_drift wrote: »

ok got the gearbox out with ease.. cheers for that guide DeBurca, felt stupid whern i realised how easy it was.

there 5 alen key bolts around the gearbox is it as simple as this to open it up? or once i open it will everything fly out at me?

You have to take off the blowback unit first.

touge_drift

Leftyflip wrote: »

You have to take off the blowback unit first.

whoops sorry deburca i mixed up user names

im looking at the blow back unit now... this is where its going to get tricky, hmmm

DeBurca

Be very careful with the blowback fake bolt, if you damage it you will not find a replacement one any place
Lefty is correct about the circlip and removing one side from the slide first and then the other, it is very fiddely and fragile also

touge_drift

i just watched a youtube video on the dissassembly of the blow back there i know what needs to be done, but im not sure if i can do it without breaking it.

touge_drift

IT LIVES!!!

put it all back together just now and test fired and call me crazy but it feels more powerful then it did before think it was just some dirt in the gearbox bloking the gears from moving. im glad i didnt have to replace parts as being honest after all that id rather pay someone to do it if it happened again.

thanks a mill for the tips and advice guys was a big help!

short video taken on my nikon d90 dslr camera. the sound isnt the best but you get the idea....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNIZbvuWoFk
just freshly rebuilt and cleaned out it feels a little more powerful then before although thats probably in my head.
does it sound a little off to you though? like the gearbox is whining?

joe stodge

i had the same problem with the gearbox on mine, it was jamming every now and again. then it jammed good and proper, turns out one of the gears threw a 1 and a half teeth and jammed it good might be an idea to have it looked by someone.

touge_drift

the gears looked grand when i had a look but i'll know somethings wrong if it happens again, i'll drop it into a shop next time (hoping there wont be a next time though)

joe stodge

touge_drift wrote: »

the gears looked grand when i had a look but i'll know somethings wrong if it happens again, i'll drop it into a shop next time (hoping there wont be a next time though)

it was in the mechbox itself. unless you have it out and open you wont see it.

airsoftkiller

touge_drift wrote: »

have the aeg in half now and took the barrel and hop unit out. noticed the hop unit said gr16 on the side. is there any difference between a gr16 and my gr15? there essentially the same gun modelling the m4/16 series. cleaned that up and inspected for damage, and all is good.

some pics so far:
the motor




the teeth look ok on that to me.

nicely cleaned hop unit



now heres where im kind of stuck how do i get the gearbox out of the reciever?



im watching a youtube tutorial of a m4 take down as a guide but im not fully sure.
it apperas ive no fuse in the aeg, is this a normal g&g thing to do or would this be the shop?

after all this i may do a write up/how to for assembly/dis-assembly of the aeg and how to fix/clean the parts.

a few of the teeth are damage dave

Leftyflip

They're not, I've seen that on countless AEGs, new and old, it's just how they look in the picture.
(Presuming you're talking about the motor, otherwise how would you know?)

glicster

does it sound a little off to you though? like the gearbox is whining?

this was happening to me and it was doing my head in,like as if the motor was connecting too tight with the bevel gear and no matter how i adjusted it it either got worse or got too tight it wouldnt work.

i smimmed up my bevel gear a bit and reset the motor height and it sorted it out,no more whining.(oh,and also a bit of lithium grease on the gear)

i did this with 2 aegs with the same satisfactory result but on one of them i had to shimm up the anti reverse latch aswell to ensure there was good surface contact where it catches the gear(just incase).
if you try this and do the latch aswell close gear box,screw together and check latch is not too tight that it doesnt spring back to catch the gear.theres only a weak spring on them

i decided to try this because when i was taking out the motor i noticed that it was tighter and harder to remove than other aegs i have

airsoftkiller

ya i was

touge_drift

cheers for the advice, ive youtubed a load of raiders and they all seem to sound the same as mine. they all have a distinct whining type of noise. may try some greese on the gease and see what happens i dont want to open it all up again unless i have to

glicster

actually mate it not a raider i have so it could be just one of those things but i will say,my aeg sounds like most do in a video of it fireing but sounds different to the naked ear. like when you hear a recording of your own voice.... "jesus i dont sound like that do i?" lol

GoTac

Leftyflip wrote: »

Sounds like stripped gears or piston, G&G's can easily take a 9.6V battery, they're very well made and usually ultra reliable. Unfortunately you may need a new piston or gearset.

It sounds like the motor is not engaging the gear box properly, there should be what looks like a flat head screw on the bottom of the pistol grip or some times it’s a small hole for an allen key , put the gun to single shot and adjust a bit then try to fire and repeat.

airsoftkiller

GoTac wrote: »

It sounds like the motor is not engaging the gear box properly, there should be what looks like a flat head screw on the bottom of the pistol grip or some times it’s a small hole for an allen key , put the gun to single shot and adjust a bit then try to fire and repeat.

he tryed that on saturday or sunday i only helped

touge_drift

yeah i tried it at the weekend and it didnt work much at all. so when i got home i stripped it all down cleaned all parts put it back together and tightened up everything and now its running sweet again