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component compatibility

  • 07-08-2010 3:16pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 21


    After having two decent bicycles stolen in Dublin, I've decided to pick up an inexpensive second hand hybrid bike and build it into my commuter. I have no experience with building up bikes and was wondering if anyone had a good resource suggestion to try and help me figure stuff out?

    More specificaly, I'm trying to figure out what I'll need to do to replace the wheels on the bicycle. I was looking at these wheels on CRC and I'm not sure if I can just simply swap them out with what is already on the bicycle (it's a Trek 7100 FX)

    What measurements do I need to check to make sure the wheels will fit on the bicycle and are compatible with the current brake setup?

    I'm also not sure how big of a tyre I can put on these wheels. I was think 28s would be best for a commuter. Any idea how to determine what range of widths are compatible with those wheels.

    How to you know if the rear cassette will work with these wheels? CRC says "Cassette Compatibility - 8/9/10-speed ". Are all cassettes standardized or do I need to worry about clearance and/or need to get some sort of spacer?

    If you replace the rear cassette, does that mean you have to replace the rear shifter derailluer as well?

    I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    What is wrong with the wheels already on the bike? R500s should fit though, the bike and wheels are both 700c. You should be able to put 28s on R500s no bother. They are 622x15c for which recommended tyre width is 23-32 although you could certainly go wider in practice as long as you are careful to seat the bead. A Trek 7100 probably comes stock with wider, I imagine 35s.

    A 7100 might be 7 speed, in which case I believe you need a 4.5mm spacer to fit onto an 8/9/10 freehub. You don't need to replace the derailleur if you replace the cassette. If you changed the number of speeds you would need to change the shifters but probably not the derailleur.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 166 ✭✭Exodus 1811


    I'm also doing the same to a Cannondale f500 fatty. I've removed most components and they were very badly worn. The front chainset was missing teeth and everything. I would like buy a drive train to suit me as a commuter, as above, what sort of set should i go for ? The old one was actually ok for the stop starty kinda cycling i experience in the city centre.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 dermots


    There is nothing wrong with the wheels per se, but one of them was replaced and the other was very old. I think the wheels on it are 36 and I'd just like to be some thinner tires on it as I won't be taking this off road at all. Saw the deal on CRC and thought those wheels might be worth the investment. I don't think I can put 28s on current wheel, but could be wrong.

    Thanks for advice on what size tyres fit on the R500s.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 dermots


    Exodus, keep me posted on this thread with your build. I'm just replacing the saddle, seat post and maybe wheels for now, but I might do the whole drivetrain down the line as bike is old and a bit worn. Don't have the money for it now, though. CRC has some good deals going, you should check out the site for all components.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 319 ✭✭f1000


    Exodus, why not just replace the chainring thats missing the teeth for a new one? I was thinking about replacing my chainset for a newish one but not too much available on the market for a square tapered BB unless you want to go with a low end chainset or ebay. I have kept some of the components and replaced the necessary bits (Brakes, Wheels, BB, Tires & a road ratio cassette)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 166 ✭✭Exodus 1811


    f1000 wrote: »
    Exodus, why not just replace the chainring thats missing the teeth for a new one? I was thinking about replacing my chainset for a newish one but not too much available on the market for a square tapered BB unless you want to go with a low end chainset or ebay. I have kept some of the components and replaced the necessary bits (Brakes, Wheels, BB, Tires & a road ratio cassette)

    Did you change your cassette? I think i'll try and find a match for the one i have on ebay or chainreaction ! Best idea ! The controls on mine are battered too, are these easily replaced?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 319 ✭✭f1000


    Yep, new cassette along with the wheels & a set of slicks.
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1864

    Not too sure about the controls? You would prob have to check the spec for sizes due to the oversized 1.5 headset.
    http://www.vintagecannondale.com/catalog.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 166 ✭✭Exodus 1811


    Was it the same tooth number as your old one ? why wud the head set matter when buying new controls?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 319 ✭✭f1000


    Stem Diameter, if you are changing.
    Had an 11-32 and changed to 12-23


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    @dermots- R500 are grand wheels but not exactly high end. I have had a front and another set which I sold on but have only actually used the front, which was fine. Some find the rear flexy. They are unlikely to be that much better than what you have at the moment though. There is a chart here, note it is quite conservative. I don't know what your rim width is now but it is likely that it would take 28s. You probably have 35s on now.

    The main thing though with tyres for fast road use is not the width but that they are slick. You could just get faster tyres and make sure to inflate them to a reasonably high pressure (more beginning cyclists underinflate than over.) Good ones I like a lot are Schwalbe Marathon Racers in 700x35c. I have these on my touring bike at the moment.

    If you are interested in 700x28c slicks I have a pair of Schwalbe Stelvio I would part with for a tenner. One is good condition and the second (which was on the rear) is a bit rounded off but has life left in it. This I would be effectively including free with the one good tyre. This is a very nice zippy race tyre that generally retails around €25-30 per tyre.

    If either of you are interested I have a triple Bontrager Race crankset with the GXP external bearing BB included. Chainrings are in good nick, looking for €35 the lot. This would likely be a substantial upgrade on what you have on there now.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 166 ✭✭Exodus 1811


    blorg wrote: »
    If either of you are interested I have a triple Bontrager Race crankset with the GXP external bearing BB included. Chainrings are in good nick, looking for €35 the lot. This would likely be a substantial upgrade on what you have on there now.

    I would be, pm sent! If dermots is interested he can have first dibs as he started the thread.
    Is there many compatability issues when changing crankset?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    I would be, pm sent! If dermots is interested he can have first dibs as he started the thread.
    Is there many compatability issues when changing crankset?
    Basically you need to match the crank to the bottom bracket. As I am including the BB with this crank there should not be any issues. It is an English-threaded BB that should fit basically any bike made in the Anglophone world or Asia since the second world war as long as it is not an Italian brand. Certainly any modern one.


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