HKC secure wave install help

Ra1ph

Hi, i'm wondering if someone can help me out?

I've just purchased a HKC Secure wave alarm SW-1070 and am testing it off line. I have an echo internal siren and I am unsure where the tamper wires go to on the control panel?

Also, when adding a RF device eg. PIR, do I add it as a point or a zone and whats the difference?

House in a standard 4 bed semi.

Any help greatly appreciated?

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Hi, i'm wondering if someone can help me out?

I've just purchased a HKC Secure wave alarm SW-1070 and am testing it off line. I have an echo internal siren and I am unsure where the tamper wires go to on the control panel?

You can connect them into a zone or else in with the external bell tamper.

Ra1ph wrote: »

Also, when adding a RF device eg. PIR, do I add it as a point or a zone and whats the difference?

House in a standard 4 bed semi.

Any help greatly appreciated?

It can be put on a zone or point, you will get more installed by adding them into the RF points

Ra1ph

Thanks Altor

On the board where the external bell goes I have:
Tamper Return, Bell hold-off( these two are connected with a resistor), Ext bell +-, Int bell +-,strobe +- and outputs 1&2. I see from the technical manual how the external bell is wired but the internal siren.....

On the internal siren, I have +- and 2 connections for tampers.

Do you mean for me to bring the + and - to "Int bell +-", and the two tamper leads to the one "tamper return" on the board.

Thanks Again

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Thanks Altor

On the board where the external bell goes I have:
Tamper Return, Bell hold-off( these two are connected with a resistor), Ext bell +-, Int bell +-,strobe +- and outputs 1&2. I see from the technical manual how the external bell is wired but the internal siren.....

On the internal siren, I have +- and 2 connections for tampers.

Do you mean for me to bring the + and - to "Int bell +-", and the two tamper leads to the one "tamper return" on the board.

Thanks Again

Your welcome,

Thats correct what you have. What you need to do is wire the internal bell into the internal bell + - plus the two cores from the tamper either into a zone tamper or else in series with the external bell tamper return.

The resistor should be taken out and fitted in the external bell if fitting one.

Any problems let us know.

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

Your welcome,

Thats correct what you have. What you need to do is wire the internal bell into the internal bell + - plus the two cores from the tamper either into a zone tamper or else in series with the external bell tamper return.

The resistor should be taken out and fitted in the external bell if fitting one.

Any problems let us know.

Hi,

Still having trouble with tamper circuit for the internal bell. The internal bell sounds when a sensor is broken but does not sound when the internal bell box is opened.

Could you explain a bit further either how I can wire the circuit to the external bell box or one of the zone tampers. I'm not too sure what the tamper circuit loop is on the external bell box.

The external and the internal bell are the only hard wired devices on the alarm circuit.


Thanks

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Hi,

Still having trouble with tamper circuit for the internal bell. The internal bell sounds when a sensor is broken but does not sound when the internal bell box is opened.

Could you explain a bit further either how I can wire the circuit to the external bell box or one of the zone tampers. I'm not too sure what the tamper circuit loop is on the external bell box.

The external and the internal bell are the only hard wired devices on the alarm circuit.


Thanks

Wire it into a zone : alarm zone 4 alarm has a link in it the tamper also has a link in it. Take the link out of the tamper side and wire the tamper off the internal bell in there. You can use any zone, i was just using 4 as an example.

Any problems, let me know.

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

Wire it into a zone : alarm zone 4 alarm has a link in it the tamper also has a link in it. Take the link out of the tamper side and wire the tamper off the internal bell in there. You can use any zone, i was just using 4 as an example.

Any problems, let me know.

I actually tried that earlier and it did not work for me. However, I've just tried it again and it's working fine.

Thanks for your help

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

I actually tried that earlier and it did not work for me. However, I've just tried it again and it's working fine.

Thanks for your help

Your welcome Ra1ph.

Ra1ph

I'm wondering if someone could give us an approx price on the HKC SW-DMTC Dialler or the SW-4/8DC Dialler and also if this has to be be wired to the master socket or could I wire it to an extension point?

Thanks

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

I'm wondering if someone could give us an approx price on the HKC SW-DMTC Dialler or the SW-4/8DC Dialler and also if this has to be be wired to the master socket or could I wire it to an extension point?

Thanks

If your looking to self monitor the alarm on the secure wave panel you will need the DTV

You will need to have Vodafone or Eircom as your service provider to get text notification off the alarm. If you use any other service provider this device also does voice notification of the alarm activating.

You would be looking at about €100 maybe even cheaper for this. Shop around is always the best option. Here is a list of suppliers

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

If your looking to self monitor the alarm on the secure wave panel you will need the DTV

You will need to have Vodafone or Eircom as your service provider to get text notification off the alarm. If you use any other service provider this device also does voice notification of the alarm activating.

You would be looking at about €100 maybe even cheaper for this. Shop around is always the best option. Here is a list of suppliers

I picked one up for 70 quid cash yesterday . Looking at the drawing for the DTV, am I right in saying that it is wired in series with the line coming to the the master socket. Can I wire it in series with an phone extension point?

THANKS

KoolKid

All digis work be if they have the main line in & then feed out to any phones around the house. This is called line seizure. Otherwise if I come in & take the phone off the hook the digi will not be able to dial out.

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

I picked one up for 70 quid cash yesterday . Looking at the drawing for the DTV, am I right in saying that it is wired in series with the line coming to the the master socket. Can I wire it in series with an phone extension point?

THANKS

You got a good deal there

The main line coming into the house goes into A/B then back out on C/D plus connect the earth. It returns to the same point to give it priority over the other phones in the house. It is always meant to be done this way.

Ra1ph

My next problem with the DTV is: I cannot get a dial tone. I did the line seizure test and am getting 0 volts across A and B.


Other Info:
I get 50V between A and B in normal mode. I have a red LED flashing once a time indicating that the line is OK.

My phone provider is Perlico, now owned by Vodafone.
I have caller ID turned off for my home phone but I am able to send text messages using my home phone while the DTV is wired.

Help greatly Appreciated!

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

My next problem with the DTV is: I cannot get a dial tone. I did the line seizure test and am getting 0 volts across A and B.


Other Info:
I get 50V between A and B in normal mode. I have a red LED flashing once a time indicating that the line is OK.

My phone provider is Perlico, now owned by Vodafone.
I have caller ID turned off for my home phone but I am able to send text messages using my home phone while the DTV is wired.

Help greatly Appreciated!

When you seize the phone line you should be getting about 7-8V if you have the 50V in normal mode.
If you disconnect the line in C/D then put your meter on A/B do you get the 50V ? If so the line is connected to the DTV the wrong way around.

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

When you seize the phone line you should be getting about 7-8V if you have the 50V in normal mode.
If you disconnect the line in C/D then put your meter on A/B do you get the 50V ? If so the line is connected to the DTV the wrong way around.

Apologies, Only getting around to this again tonight.

Still no Dial Tone....


I removed the wires from CD and did not get any voltage across AB.
More Info:

During Line seizure....

I get ~4 Volts which slowly drops to 1 volt across AB
I get 42Volts across CD and then it drops in steps of 0.3Volt and settles at 17 Volts.


I have also swapped around lines AB but have no joy. Is there any significance in polarity?

Any Ideas or other tests I should carry out?

THANKS

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Apologies, Only getting around to this again tonight.

Still no Dial Tone....


I removed the wires from CD and did not get any voltage across AB.
More Info:

During Line seizure....

I get ~4 Volts which slowly drops to 1 volt across AB
I get 42Volts across CD and then it drops in steps of 0.3Volt and settles at 17 Volts.


I have also swapped around lines AB but have no joy. Is there any significance in polarity?

Any Ideas or other tests I should carry out?

THANKS

Might be a cable issue.
Can you disconnect the cables going to the alarm and from the main phone line and test them by doing a continuity test ?

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

Might be a cable issue.
Can you disconnect the cables going to the alarm and from the main phone line and test them by doing a continuity test ?

Continuity is Ok but I am only using alarm cable from the main line to the Alarm box and like you said the this may be the issue. I'll have to wait till Monday to pick up some single core telephone cable.

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Continuity is Ok but I am only using alarm cable from the main line to the Alarm box and like you said the this may be the issue. I'll have to wait till Monday to pick up some single core telephone cable.

Alarm cable will work if thats what your using. If you connect the main phone line to the A/B terminals without connecting any house phones does it work ?

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

Alarm cable will work if thats what your using. If you connect the main phone line to the A/B terminals without connecting any house phones does it work ?

So, I disconnected lines CD and lost the phone line. Had another look at the master socket cabling and what I taught was the main line in was actually an extension cable What confused me was that the master socket is actually a BT socket (wire before we moved in....we never used this socket, using one in the kitchen)

So, I think now I have the main phone in wired to AB but still not getting the the 6-8 Volts during Line seizure. However, I am passing the dial tone test and I have managed to set the DTV to make a test call to my mobile using voice protocol.

The next thing is to set it up to send me a text:

My phone provider is Perlico.....I set sms server to 2?
What protocol do I us?
What account number should I use?

Once Again THANKS for the help!

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

So, I disconnected lines CD and lost the phone line. Had another look at the master socket cabling and what I taught was the main line in was actually an extension cable What confused me was that the master socket is actually a BT socket (wire before we moved in....we never used this socket, using one in the kitchen)

So, I think now I have the main phone in wired to AB but still not getting the the 6-8 Volts during Line seizure. However, I am passing the dial tone test and I have managed to set the DTV to make a test call to my mobile using voice protocol.

The next thing is to set it up to send me a text:

My phone provider is Perlico.....I set sms server to 2?
What protocol do I us?
What account number should I use?

Once Again THANKS for the help!

Your welcome, always happy to help

Perlico is now owned by Vodafone so it should send text.

Delete any numbers you put in the voice option.
Dont change any other setting as it is all ready to go once you put in the numbers.

Go into comms menu, press yes, DTV menu, press yes, scroll to SMS menu, press yes, site name, press yes. Enter house alarm, press yes to accept, quit to return to site name, scroll to phone number, press yes. Enter your number here. If you have any more numbers you want to text put them in this menu. up to 19 but you wont need all them

exit engineering and activate a panic on the alarm by pressing *plus# together. If it is working you should get a text.

Let me know how you get on.

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

Your welcome, always happy to help

Perlico is now owned by Vodafone so it should send text.

Delete any numbers you put in the voice option.
Dont change any other setting as it is all ready to go once you put in the numbers.

Go into comms menu, press yes, DTV menu, press yes, scroll to SMS menu, press yes, site name, press yes. Enter house alarm, press yes to accept, quit to return to site name, scroll to phone number, press yes. Enter your number here. If you have any more numbers you want to text put them in this menu. up to 19 but you wont need all them

exit engineering and activate a panic on the alarm by pressing *plus# together. If it is working you should get a text.

Let me know how you get on.

Super! Set it up as explained and is working a treat:D

Just need now to tidy up a few cables and hopefully thats me done.

Again thanks for your time and help!

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Super! Set it up as explained and is working a treat:D

Just need now to tidy up a few cables and hopefully thats me done.

Again thanks for your time and help!

Good to hear its all working for you, all easy when you know how

Ra1ph

altor wrote: »

Good to hear its all working for you, all easy when you know how

"when you know how" is right ...

altor

Does not always work that easy but i will still take the credit

Ra1ph

Hi Again,

I am looking to hear a beep sound when a sensor is opened. ie. when I come in the front door, I want to hear the keypad beeping to remind me that the alarm is armed. Is this possible with the securewave?

Also, I have an inertia sensor which, when I arm the alarm it saying it is open-it reads that the tamper is open correctly. Should I just bring it back or is there anything I can do to try fix it?


Thanks

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Hi Again,

I am looking to hear a beep sound when a sensor is opened. ie. when I come in the front door, I want to hear the keypad beeping to remind me that the alarm is armed. Is this possible with the securewave?

The zone should be set up as entry/exit. Normally zone 1 is entry/exit and gives an buzz when entering plus exiting.

Ra1ph wrote: »

Also, I have an inertia sensor which, when I arm the alarm it saying it is open-it reads that the tamper is open correctly. Should I just bring it back or is there anything I can do to try fix it?

If there is a magnet fitted you will need to make sure it is close enough to the sensor. If it is a shock sensor check the arrow on the head is pointing up.

Ra1ph

Yeah, the shock sensor arrow was pointing the wrong way-sorted

I had all the wireless devices setup up as points so changed one to Zone 1 and is working the way I wanted .

Thanks Again

altor

Ra1ph wrote: »

Yeah, the shock sensor arrow was pointing the wrong way-sorted

I had all the wireless devices setup up as points so changed one to Zone 1 and is working the way I wanted .

Thanks Again

Your welcome.

You could of changed it in the point menu but since its working i would it where it is.

braypaul

hi i was wondering if you could help me out , i have a hkc secure watch 8/12 panel with aritech contacts shocks with reeds . the house is a new build with 6 core alarm cable . instead of one cable to each contact like i would normally do they wired it in a few loops. one of them has four windows, one has two windows and a french doors in the loop, another one has two windows and the saab allowed for on it and the last has two separate cables from the front door and front room going to the keypad and one cable going back to the panel i can not figure out how to get the panel to see each contact . any help would be a blessing

KoolKid

Sounds like it was wired with Astec in mind.
Are you installing this or is it already in place?
6 cores for the front windows & the SABB can be done .
SABB +
Bell Trigger -
Strobe Trigger
BHO
TR

Take - from BHO to one side of the zone & use the last strand to return to the zone input wiring in duel EOL to include tampers

braypaul

i am installing it myself .i can get it to see on contact on each loop but when i try to get it to see another one it won't see any . i'm thinking of using two core for each contact and giving each contact its own zone but this will mean having to get an expander unit maybe

braypaul

koolkid wrote: »

6 cores for the front windows & the SABB can be done .
SABB +
Bell Trigger -
Strobe Trigger
BHO
TR

Take - from BHO to one side of the zone & use the last strand to return to the zone input wiring in duel EOL to include tampers

the saab is on a loop with two windows and i was thinking of using two cores for each window but that will only leave two cores for the saab

KoolKid

The SABB can't be done on 2 wire with a HKC system.

braypaul

i know i might try to put a separate cable for the saab

KoolKid

Well then your all good so.;)

dublinjim

Hi. can anyone help as i'm having a problem with my alarm system. when the unit is powed up the key pad is saying there is a fault with the RKP comms but i ran a new wire to the key pad but it's still showing up a fault. is there a reset procedure to do to this. thanks. or would you have a typical wiring diagram for this showing the EOL resistors etc for one key pad.

fred funk }{

There are no resistors for the keypad.

altor

dublinjim wrote: »

Hi. can anyone help as i'm having a problem with my alarm system. when the unit is powed up the key pad is saying there is a fault with the RKP comms but i ran a new wire to the key pad but it's still showing up a fault. is there a reset procedure to do to this. thanks. or would you have a typical wiring diagram for this showing the EOL resistors etc for one key pad.

I would say the keypad is gone faulty if power down and back up the panel does not clear the fault. You will need a new keypad.

tombob

Planning to replace alarm with HKC SW-8/12. Going to make connections 1 at a time. If I make all connections except alarm and tamper zones and leave the links in place can I set alarm.There is a red light in centre of panel flashing when power is on, what is this light, it cannot be seen when cover is on panel

altor

tombob wrote: »

Planning to replace alarm with HKC SW-8/12. Going to make connections 1 at a time. If I make all connections except alarm and tamper zones and leave the links in place can I set alarm.There is a red light in centre of panel flashing when power is on, what is this light, it cannot be seen when cover is on panel

The HKC Securewave 10/70 panel would be my choice over the 8/12.
At lease it will give you the option of adding wire free devices if you ever need them.
The light in the center of the board is a indication that the system is working correctly. If this was off or not flashing it would indicate a problem with keypad communications or the PCB itself.

tombob

Already have the 8/12, thanks a lot for your help, dont need elaborate system just the basics, At last got it working. one zone at a time. next job connecting to phone but thats for another day

altor

tombob wrote: »

Already have the 8/12, thanks a lot for your help, dont need elaborate system just the basics, At last got it working. one zone at a time. next job connecting to phone but thats for another day

Easy enough to do. Any problems you know where we are.