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1st bike. Go 2nd hand?
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01-08-2010 5:59am#1Right, any recommendations? Nothing bank breaking please and if anyone has something second hand then PM me!
I want to get my 1st bike this week or next week, preferably 2nd hand and then I'll buy a good new one when I get in to it a bit. I intend on using it initially to get my fitness back up and hopefully start cycling to work and leaving the car at home. Now, work is a 20 mile journey but I know it's doable!
So, I'm looking for something simple to start out with and also comfortable for cycling such a distance each day.
I aim to build my fitness then slowly introduce the cycle to work. One day a week, 2 days a week, 3 days a week and so on.
What sort of size frame/wheel size/brands/type of bike etc etc should I be looking for? I'm 6ft1 and my inside leg measurement is 36", if that helps anyone.0
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Yeah just checked about 10 stores and none have it in stock.Someone said on these forums that, the TDF is impossible to get, its out of stock everywhere. I have no idea I've not asked. No one seems to like the carerra bikes on these forums but on forums, like cyclechat, they have an ok reputation. Though the shops can be rubbish for fixing things.
The gears usually have a similar high~low range. More gears in between just give you more choice in between. Especially for hills, or long inclines. Popping around to the local shop you wouldn't need them. Different story on a longer cycle.
Can you do the cycle to work scheme at work?
I've seen posters of that in the local bike shop but none in work. What is it? I'm not too sure if I can do it. There's only a couple of us who have to commute to work. Everyone else lives local so they walk, hop on the bus for 80 cent or drive down the road.
Where would be a good place to buy gear? I have a helmet sorted but stuff like the padded shorts etc. I'll probably get a light kit in halfords and a simple light wrap around high vis in the local hardware store.0 -
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I'd let them do all the set up and then have a mate who knows about bikes check it over. I'd think it'd be utterly unacceptable for you to buy a bike in Halfords and then have to pay another bike shop to check their work.Yep, it's 20 miles each way. Wait, it might be more! It's 20 miles by motorway. Stupid me! Edit: It's 22km each way by motorway and 20km each way by roads I can cycle on. So, 12 miles each way cycling? 24 miles a day. Seems achievable and doable for me!
That's manageable all right. Maybe do the route a few times at the weekend first so you can find the pace that gets you there quickest without becoming a sweaty mess.Nah there wont be any off roading plus I loathe mountain bikes. I think hybrid is best option for me so I can get a mix of comfort and race feels?
Cool enough, I just thought I'd suggest. In that case I'd go for a hybrid over a road bike because it's more forgiving and easier to control.What does a bike service consist of and how often should they be done?
It depends on what needs doing, but really you're just lubing everything, checking if the wheels run true, checking tyre condition etc.
It's very like car servicing, you can drop your car in for a lube service in Advance Pitstop (aka a bike service in Halfords), you can spend 3 times that doing a major service with an indy mechanic (bottom bracket being replaced by local bike shop) or you can learn to do it yourself.
Bikes are so basic you should definitely learn to do it yourself - you're far more likely to be adjusting individual things and replacing specific parts as you go along rather than requiring one big "service" once a year.
This is a very handy resource: http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.htmlDoes Halfords have a compare system? All this shimano 500 gear quick shift super duper system makes no sense to me. Surely one doesn't need so many gears? :pac:
Really, in terms of this it's simpler than it looks. The gears/brakes/shifters tend to be grouped fairly hierarchically - 105 is better than Tiagra, which is better than Sora, which is better than 2200.
Just look them up on the manufacturer's website to see where they sit in the range.
Also look out for the old manufacturer trick of putting a higher spec rear derailleur than the rest of the bike - i.e. everything on the bike is Sora or worse, but the rear mech is Tiagra and all the salesman and all the marketing blurb tells you it's a Tiagra equipped bike.With so many gears on some road/race bikes (Not sure how many) would I be right in saying that they only adjust the resistance ever so slightly to a fine perfection on some bikes?
In terms of number of gears, again I'd draw the car analogy - a car with a 7-speed auto 'box will be smoother in operation than a car with a 4-speed auto 'box.
Adding additional ratios won't generally make the car any faster (maybe a slightly longer cruising gear to aid fuel economy), but the real effect is to put the ratios closer together so that it's easier to find the "perfect" gear.
Really gears are just used to match the optimum speed of the engine/legs to the road wheels.Can you do the cycle to work scheme at work?
I've seen posters of that in the local bike shop but none in work. What is it? I'm not too sure if I can do it. There's only a couple of us who have to commute to work. Everyone else lives local so they walk, hop on the bus for 80 cent or drive down the road.
Defo check it out, there are some detailed threads elsewhere in this forum that explain it.Where would be a good place to buy gear? I have a helmet sorted but stuff like the padded shorts etc. I'll probably get a light kit in halfords and a simple light wrap around high vis in the local hardware store.
I would tend to buy a lot of that stuff online, depending on what it is.
Lights, lock, other parts etc. - buy online.
Clothing, shorts - buy in local bike shop or sports store (so you can actually try it on)
Helmet - defo buy in reputable, local bike shop. Fit is fairly critical with a helmet and you want someone who knows what they're talking about to help you find the right one.0 -
North County Dublin.Where are you?
If I become interested I'll leave a message on the ad for you, thanks.hi bonito the selling price of the sirrus if you look at it is actually cheap in the end if you get a 400 euro carrera bike then you add the costs of the lights the mudguards the pumps the locks and the chains you will come up near the 500 mark which the sirrus already comes with youll also get an extra armadillo tyre worth 25 quid not fitted yet for the winter months.............compared to a carrera the sirrus is lighter plus has carbon forks which helps with dampening.
I had withdrawn the bike after posting that ad as i had enjoyed using it for commuting... but now with the baby i need to get a car so thats why im flogging it again.
So if I buy a €500 bike I pay €250 up front and €24 comes from my pay packet/tax allowance each month to spread the cost? I know my local shop is registered for it but I don't think our company is, unfortunately.Bike to Work scheme allows you to buy a bike and safety equipment and pay for it with pre-tax income. It reduces Employer PRSI too. Not all companies partake (it's optional) and some, frustratingly, only work with a single shop.
Two of my old teachers are mad in to their bikes, one of them being Pat Halpin who's name I've seen mentioned around here numerous times (is he signed up to boards?), so I'll have one of them check everything over for me.I'd let them do all the set up and then have a mate who knows about bikes check it over. I'd think it'd be utterly unacceptable for you to buy a bike in Halfords and then have to pay another bike shop to check their work.
That's the plan. Then when I get a good pace and time sorted I'll slowly introduce it. 1 day a week cycle, 2 days a week and so on. As I increase the cycle to work I can cut down on the regain-fitness-cycling and swap it for spare time enjoyable cycling.That's manageable all right. Maybe do the route a few times at the weekend first so you can find the pace that gets you there quickest without becoming a sweaty mess.
I found these 2 online last night. What are peoples opinions?Cool enough, I just thought I'd suggest. In that case I'd go for a hybrid over a road bike because it's more forgiving and easier to control.
Giant OCR 4.
Giant SCR 4.
Cheers for that.It depends on what needs doing, but really you're just lubing everything, checking if the wheels run true, checking tyre condition etc.
It's very like car servicing, you can drop your car in for a lube service in Advance Pitstop (aka a bike service in Halfords), you can spend 3 times that doing a major service with an indy mechanic (bottom bracket being replaced by local bike shop) or you can learn to do it yourself.
Bikes are so basic you should definitely learn to do it yourself - you're far more likely to be adjusting individual things and replacing specific parts as you go along rather than requiring one big "service" once a year.
This is a very handy resource: http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.html
So 105 would be 1st preference followed by Tiagra, Sora, 2200. Would it be best having a mix & match of parts or all from the one? E.g. Some 105 parts and some Tiagra parts or all 105 or all Tiagra?Really, in terms of this it's simpler than it looks. The gears/brakes/shifters tend to be grouped fairly hierarchically - 105 is better than Tiagra, which is better than Sora, which is better than 2200.
Just look them up on the manufacturer's website to see where they sit in the range.
I'll keep an eye on that alright.Also look out for the old manufacturer trick of putting a higher spec rear derailleur than the rest of the bike - i.e. everything on the bike is Sora or worse, but the rear mech is Tiagra and all the salesman and all the marketing blurb tells you it's a Tiagra equipped bike.
I think I'll buy a length of the chunkiest, densest, strongest chain I can and a like wise lock and leave it at work then I'll get a very good one that I can carry around for if I make stops and want to lock it up for a few minutes.I would tend to buy a lot of that stuff online, depending on what it is.
Lights, lock, other parts etc. - buy online.
I'll get the Helmet in the local store so. He's quite good.Helmet - defo buy in reputable, local bike shop. Fit is fairly critical with a helmet and you want someone who knows what they're talking about to help you find the right one.0 -
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If it were me I'd get a rack and pannier if you are going 20k and carrying anything. And a road bike.If you buy a hybrid or a mountain bike or any bike with flat bars, the more you cycle the more you'll regret it. Get the best quality road bike you can afford from the outset, but be sure it's laid out for comfort rather than speed. On a 20 mile commute every day, last thing you want is flat out racing geometry and spec.
Now the dilemma of which bike to get.
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