Replacing Triton T90SI with a T90XR, need help with the plumbing

J0hnick

Hi, Im replacing my old Triton T90SI with a T90XR. I used to be an apprentice electrician and was almost qualified except for failing 1 exam, I still spent 4 years doing domestic electrical work from 1998 to 2002 though. Ive fitted electrical showers before but only during the first fixing of new houses, and only the electrical end, not the plumbing. I realize the T90's are all similar and there is only one copper pipe at the bottom, for somebody with little to no plumbing skills is there anything special I need to know about fitting this pipe ?.

Its probably simple, but I haven't fitted a shower in 8 years, never fitted the copper pipe before (we left that up to the plumbers) and well water and electricity dont mix so I really dont want to mess it up. I also don't want to have to hire somebody for a job I know I can do 90% of.

Thanks in advance

Joey the lips

I dont understand your problem. The difference between a t90si and t90xr is the xr has a bow shaped riser rail..

Best of luck

indie armada

the only problem i could see you having is identfying which valve turns off the water to the shower feed. other then that if my memory is intact its pretty much a straight swap. just put some ptfe tape on the thread on the elbow, winding it on in the same direction as the nut will go....clockwise usually

AckwelFoley

The showers are similar, but its a fairly straight forward swap over.

The screw holes are different on the 2 cases so you will need to re bore the wall.

You need to turn off the electrical supply at the board for the shower and you also need to turn off the water feed from the cold tank to the shower, there should be a direct feed from the tank to the shower and valve in between, usually at the tank.

Remove the front case, 2 screws on to and 2 on the bottom.

Disconnect the electrical wires, there is a live neutral and an earth, pretty straight foreward.

The pipe needs to be removed, the screw it anti clockwise, You may need to remove the screws that are fixing the shower case to the wall in order to remove the pipe from the shower.

Mark the new shower in position making sure that the cold water feed will fit up onto the shower

Drill the holes, and place in the top screw first (there are 3, 2 at the bottom one on top) When you have the top screw in a few turns you can then place the shower case on (there, is a hole to put the shower case through)

Fix the valve on, making sure you use some boss white to create a seal, the new shower has a plastic nib unlike the copper nib on the older shower so be careful you dont overtighten.

Screw home the 3 screws at this point.

Dont commect the electrical wires yet! At this point you need to bleed pump in the shower, so turn on your water supply to the shower. CHECK FOR ANY LEAK AT THE CONNECTION.

Once you are satisfied there is no leak you need to let the air out of the pump, The bleed screw is not actually a screw its a plastic nib that is about the size of the head of a pencil just across from the wire terminals, open that slowley until the water flows and there is no more splattering of air, once that is done close it off.

You can now connect the wires back, the live neutral and of course the earth.

There is a wire block connector on the couter caseing for the switch that needs to be plugged to the case that was mounted to the wall, once that is done screw back the box and run the shower for 30 seconds, you will notice the temp dial wont turn, dont panic, that is screwed in to make sure you bleed the system and have no air in the pump befire you use it.

Once you run the shower on cold, and you are happy there is no air in it, unscrew the case and unscrew the small screw that is screwed at the dial on the main caseing.

Screw back on the shower, test the dials to see you are getting hot and cold water.

Next you will need a bottle of shower gel.....

Johnick

snyper wrote: »

Snip

Thanks man, worked perfectly , I already knew how to do all the electrical work it was just the plumbin end I needed a hand with.

Thanks again ;-)

AckwelFoley

Johnick wrote: »

Thanks man, worked perfectly

No bother. You're welcome

A2LUE42

I have done the same swap recently, but today the new shower is tripping the trip switch in the fusebox after about 10 minutes in the shower. Does anyone know the reccomended fuse that should be in the switch outside the bathroom? It's a Tritom T90z 9.5kW

Billy Bunting

MCB 40/45A Cartridge 45A

Diggerdunne

shud it not be a 40A RCBO that protects the shower?

A2LUE42

This is what was there already, the 30mA.

http://www.gepowercontrols.com/ex/product_portfolio/residential/residual_current_device/rcbo_dm60_4d.html

Billy Bunting

Diggerdunne wrote: »

shud it not be a 40A RCBO that protects the shower?

My post was a direct quote from the installation instructions.

Diggerdunne

the installation instructions may be out dated or for the uk maybe as RCBO is standard for a number of years now i do believe....

Billy Bunting

Appoligies for the possible incorrect info, unable to edit the post.

eoinpaul

AckwelFoley wrote: »

The showers are similar, but its a fairly straight forward swap over.

The screw holes are different on the 2 cases so you will need to re bore the wall.

You need to turn off the electrical supply at the board for the shower and you also need to turn off the water feed from the cold tank to the shower, there should be a direct feed from the tank to the shower and valve in between, usually at the tank.

Remove the front case, 2 screws on to and 2 on the bottom.

Disconnect the electrical wires, there is a live neutral and an earth, pretty straight foreward.

The pipe needs to be removed, the screw it anti clockwise, You may need to remove the screws that are fixing the shower case to the wall in order to remove the pipe from the shower.

Mark the new shower in position making sure that the cold water feed will fit up onto the shower

Drill the holes, and place in the top screw first (there are 3, 2 at the bottom one on top) When you have the top screw in a few turns you can then place the shower case on (there, is a hole to put the shower case through)

Fix the valve on, making sure you use some boss white to create a seal, the new shower has a plastic nib unlike the copper nib on the older shower so be careful you dont overtighten.

Screw home the 3 screws at this point.

Dont commect the electrical wires yet! At this point you need to bleed pump in the shower, so turn on your water supply to the shower. CHECK FOR ANY LEAK AT THE CONNECTION.

Once you are satisfied there is no leak you need to let the air out of the pump, The bleed screw is not actually a screw its a plastic nib that is about the size of the head of a pencil just across from the wire terminals, open that slowley until the water flows and there is no more splattering of air, once that is done close it off.

You can now connect the wires back, the live neutral and of course the earth.

There is a wire block connector on the couter caseing for the switch that needs to be plugged to the case that was mounted to the wall, once that is done screw back the box and run the shower for 30 seconds, you will notice the temp dial wont turn, dont panic, that is screwed in to make sure you bleed the system and have no air in the pump befire you use it.

Once you run the shower on cold, and you are happy there is no air in it, unscrew the case and unscrew the small screw that is screwed at the dial on the main caseing.

Screw back on the shower, test the dials to see you are getting hot and cold water.

Next you will need a bottle of shower gel.....

Can anyone tell me why the water keeps flowing after I turned the shower off.I have just repaced the pump in my t90si.

Dozer Dave

eoinpaul wrote: »

Can anyone tell me why the water keeps flowing after I turned the shower off.I have just repaced the pump in my t90si.

Had the shower a water flowing problem before you replaced the pump?

Sleeper12

The solenoid needs replacing. it's stuck on open